Ghostchips Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Are the cylinders all the same size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Swap one shoe side to side. E.g swap the top shoes over. Edit: is that brake fluid all over the bottom shoe? Next time I have them apart I'll do that. Wet spot is just some brake cleaner that hadn't dried. That dirty pic is from my other Morris. Are the cylinders all the same size? AFAIK. I sent them as a set to be rebuild and they didn't mention anything different. I'm going to drive it in to Wellington tomorrow so motorway traffic will be interesting. What mof said. When I get issues with imbalanced drums, mainly on hiace vans, is swap the drums and leading shoes, de-dust and adjust. Boom. Can get that shit down to zero percentage imbalance. However. You're talking about British shit with shit jammed on from a different piece of British shit. So its most likely always going to be shit, because British. Well shit. I wonder if Hiace drums would fit? It's a two-leading shoe design, none of that fancy self-energizing bendix stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Also do all the shoes match? Sounds weird. Does happen. Another one is drum size. I assume this has been checked. Had a monaro at work once trying to get a revin built out of a bunch of boxes thst it came in. Failed brake test twice before I realized the drum id was different by a few mm and was mint once they were both machined to match Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 is it uneven on brake rollers? ie is it the brake that is pulling, or a problem with the steering/suspension possibly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 We have a drive on brake tester (safety stop) at work. if you want to try it out I'll be there Saturday morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 is it uneven on brake rollers? ie is it the brake that is pulling, or a problem with the steering/suspension possibly? Road tests only, my WOF place is oldschool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdotlowe Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Quick ignorant ignition related question: If I've got no spark, and I disconnect the coil-to-distributor cap wire, and that also has no spark when turning over, does that rule out anything wrong with the distributor/timing? Does that mean I need to investigate the coil/wiring/ignitor etc? Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 We have a drive on brake tester (safety stop) at work. if you want to try it out I'll be there Saturday morning. Might do. What time do you open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 It doesn't rule out them also being problematic but you definitely want to ensure your wiring to the coil is correct, ballast resistor in place if it's supposed to be there, etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdotlowe Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 It doesn't rule out them also being problematic but you definitely want to ensure your wiring to the coil is correct, ballast resistor in place if it's supposed to be there, etc. Thanks Kyteler. Definitely have some investigating to do. A coil lead should still spark regardless of connectivity to the distributor cap am I right? 1974 Honda Civic electronic ignition for what it's worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Yeah, if you disconnect the end from the cap, sit that end near an earth point and wind it over, you should hear and see a spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Ooh, Honda electronic. I had problems with my old City, if there's a module on the side of the dizzy, they're known to fuck out. Unsure if it is the same in the 70s stuff though. Unlikely, I would guess. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdotlowe Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Ooh, Honda electronic. I had problems with my old City, if there's a module on the side of the dizzy, they're known to fuck out. Unsure if it is the same in the 70s stuff though. Unlikely, I would guess. Yeah tried that, and no Spark. It's a 1974 EB Civic, however it's got an early 80's Honda electronic ignition on it. There's a little module on the firewall which I assume could be part of the problem. Was running before I had the head off however :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Have you unplugged anything else? There may be a circuit to the dash that needs completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdotlowe Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Have you unplugged anything else? There may be a circuit to the dash that needs completed. You're probably right. I'll have a good look around tonight. Cheers mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Might do. What time do you open? 8-12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 ok - question. I have a tank 3 actually (500m3) which the boss wants hold-down the bolts "nipped up" I am concerned that there might be a little change in the compressive loading on the structure between empty and full. the bolts are M20 and about 300mm showing above ground plus whatever is showing under ground. what sort of calc (details material, footprint tempreture etc..) do i need to do to understand potential compression over the footprint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 ^ Ask an engineer? After swapping the drums side to side the Morris seems pretty balanced as long as the road isn't too cambered. Might still try it on the brake rollers if I get up early on Saturday. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 Sucessfully got some seized brake caliper pistons out - insert grease nipple into bleed hole (thanks ENZED) crank grease in - too easy. Previous bashing with big hammer wasnt doing shit. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 2, 2016 Share Posted December 2, 2016 ^ Ask an engineer? After swapping the drums side to side the Morris seems pretty balanced as long as the road isn't too cambered. Might still try it on the brake rollers if I get up early on Saturday. Tried out Roger's magic machine (which is a pretty cool gadget, no rollers needed these days) which says the front is perfectly balanced but the RR is barely working, so will take a look at that next. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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