RUNAMUCK Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 So is this a thing, or have I eaten too many blue mushrooms/brown acid? It seems to me that low compression engines seem to go harder on stale gas. The old 3.5hp side valve kwaka on my kart seemed to go better on shitty gas. And sometimes it seems like my 50 does too. Perhaps the heavy end which us less volatile makes more BTU's Or am I mistaken? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 It's true, my old flathead v8 runs better on 2 year old 91, it just runs sweeter, I have the vacuum brake wound right out on the dizzy and it still won't ping 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 would lack of ping indicate a slower flame front? ie, old engine love less volatile gas, and never went well enough to show benefit from the technology-magic contained in fresh gas anyway? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 It has a low compression design, looks of space under the head, and I think it will run on 70 octane happily 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 I think it likes a fast flame front as it has to travel all the way from above the exhaust valve and round the corner down into the cylinder 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 I was playing round with an old Norton sidevalve single and it had 2 plug holes, one above the piston and one above the exhaust, the one above the piston has a threaded plug for finding tdc and if you put the sparkplug there it runs like shit 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 What is a cheep and easy to find 2bbl down drought carb witch is reasonabley good looking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 Single or two stage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 Single stage is fine, I have x4 holly 94s here but want something else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 32/36 weber? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Would a weber Dcoe or Ida carb be expensive? They look alot nicer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 Ida are expensive, empi do a copy green brothers in Tauranga sell me. Q, 13b headers glowing cherry red after idling at 2000rpm for under 5 mins seems at bit much? Must get temp gauge. Fuel pressure seems high spitting out main jet at idle - could be related. Think I want a more old man spec pump anyway carter way too loud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 Glowing exhaust usually meens retarded ignition and spitting back can be lean or ignition related, but not sure about a rotor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 as above, sounds like timing issue.  probably slow to rev and down on power also if thats the case.  Edit: top fail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 Car not mobile so no seat of pants power data available, timing light next pay day. Dizzy rotor lines up at tdc mid range on base adjustment though, was running 3/4 to max advance when it was heating up. Hard to start with less timing and barely runs. Maybe vac leak causing lean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 allllllll righty then  Carby Electric fuel pumps.  I need to replace my suspected leaking mechanical pump on my crown, looking for some experience here with flow rates and PSI's  Factory mechanical pumps 4.2 to 5.4psi  Can either get a 1-4 psi pump at 90L per hour, or 3-7 psi at 120L per hour.  Its going on a 2.8liter Toyota 5m (6 cylinder)  Peoples thoughts on which choice you would go for? price is the same so not worried about that. Just worried about getting the bigger one and over powering the float needle, or getting the smaller one and not pumping enough to run the turd.  Also I assume its still ok to run the pump off the ignition and not needed a tachometric replay to power the thing? I under stand there are benefits to safety for the tachometric, but i also dont wanna be cranking the shit out of it when the fuel is trying to prime up after a stint of no use.  I have intalled the higher PSi pumps in the past on other vehicles, and not really had a problem, but as I learn more, I constantly start to over think things like this lol  Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I've been meaning to ask the same question, but for a 2l Mitsubishi. Mines pumping almost as much oil out the vent as it is fuel down the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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