Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

[Seedy Al]

Tape it up.

[Seedy Al]

Just to confirm, other dissy seemed better in shaft play, new points and condensor and everything seems gravy

[h4nd]

What's the good oil on getting dns hijacking off a win7 machine? Have tried flushing ipcache, kapersky / Windows Defender Offline, losing interest.

 

About to try http://goodbye-microsoft.com/

[kyteler]

ComboFix ?

[h4nd]

Thanks. For onlookers: Windows defender offline found some shit after a full scan (overnight on a low powered machine), and combofix found some more. Now seems to be kosher / halal, though I removed an odd looking manual DNS entry.

[Steelies]

sheeeit, just noticed the fuel and temp gauges in my hilux (89, 3Y sr5 stock) are off the scale.

it has a shitty alarm, tried all the buttons etc.

the gauges do the same thing - rising to max/off the scale - when the car is turned on, running or not. switched off they slowly drop to zero as per usual.

 

anyone know how my car is broken?

ta

[Spencer]

Remove the alarm and burn it. Then look for any other shitty wiring and remove. Those stock gauges earth to the sender which has a variable resistance so I guess you have a earth somewhere. But then if both gauges are doing it you may have some strange 12v feeding in the wrong spot etc.

Best to pull the cluster and start testing once you have cleaned up any dodgy wiring. It's easy to trace and test the gauge circuits from the plug in the back.

[Steelies]

chur zpenz.

[Spencer]

Report back plz, you can easily trace the back of those clusters as the PCB is all visible. You can then check if you have a weird 12V on the wrong leg or a solid earth. Pays to pull the temp sender plug so you can check the continuity of that wire, fuel one is not so easy to disconnect, well might be on a ute.

[Steelies]

so, i undid the bungee holding the steering column trim on to have a squizz, goddam most of it needs to be in the tech fail thread. imagine your first wiring attempt, where your old man said 'what the fuck is this' and you said it was already like that. alarm, old cb wiring, shit that goes nowhere. pulled the fuse for hokey/broken spotlight wiring. too much for a couple days before nats trip so it'll sit till we're back.

unplugged temp sender, gauge dropped

charge system voltage no probs

will let you know how i get on when the time comes /more puzzled questions.

[Sparkle]

hey guyz,

am running my engine on a high zinc 20w50 "oil pro"/pennzoil that my engine builder recommended.

I feel that the oil may be taking a bit long to warm up/too much pressure g?

 

When first driving, even with a 2min or so warm up, anything over 1500rpm goes off the scale (100psi+) .

After 5-10 mins driving at 3500rpm or under the gauge still sits at 90-100psi under load, and drops back to about 20psi at idle.

Eventually it drops back to about 70-80psi under load, and I suppose then I feel safe to nang it. (I've got a heavily gated and baffled sump etc too)

 

Worth changing to a 15w40 mineral with high zinc? And if so, recommendations?

[cute wee gem]

20w50 is pretty oldschool. Go with something thinner imo

 

I'm not sure if your engine requires loads of zinc, but you can get a zddp additive and add it to any oil you use.

[AllTorque]

Did he recommend that oil for all the time, or just running in?

[Rookie]

Did your engine builder Fuck with the oil relief valve? I wouldn't have any qualms putting 10/30 full synthetic with zddp additive personally. Get it off mineral oil asap.

[kicker]

Penrite have a range of high zinc oils

[Spencer]

I'm with rookie, all of this doesn't seem that good. I would have started with a 30w on a new engine with a new oil pump and what you would hope is tight bottom end clearances. That 20psi idle pressure seems low for a new engine with 50w? is that within spec for this thing? You will find that with this engine you probably don't need the full 1400+ppm or whatever the penrite oil offers, there are plenty of other oils with high zinc that isn't slapped all over the box to get sales, you just have to sit down and look at the data sheets for oils in the weight you want that are easy to get locally (and do some google action)

[Testament]

VR1 has plenty of ZDDP and comes up on sale at supercheap pretty often/what I have been nanging in the 124. not sure if thats a full or a semi synth though. but yeah 20w50 on a newly rebuilt nang spec motor and oil pressures that high seems a little much.

[Tender Raisin]

Not sure if this is the place to post this but owell....

 

Does anyone know anything about air shocks?

 

I have a gx61 corona with air shocks in the rear. There is a tyre valve near the tow bar which is (as i have been told) used to change the shock air pressure.

 

Does anyone know what PSI these should be at or anything of the sort? Im just curious as travelling with 4 people in the car the mudflaps drag on the ground. 

 

Any help appreciated thanks.

[Spencer]

IMO air shocks are shit, usually have shit valving that doesn't work well (bouncy) and they put weight through the shock mounts which they aren't designed for.

 

For your question they just have lines that run to a valve, just pump them up and see what happens. They should always have some air in them to stop the bag sagging and wearing itself out, usually like 10-15psi. Just play with them and figure it out, they may not even hold air any-more, max pressure is usually in the 40-50PSI range (google the brand for instructions). You really just need some harder springs and a decent shock combo, if you need something for variable load then the bags that go inside springs work much better.

[igor]

My XC wags has air shocks. I'm assuming they were fitted to prevent or at least limit arse dragging when towing as the guy I got it from used it tow his race car transporter. Took me years to even notice the valve for them. Without knowing a whole lot about them I'd be inclined to agree with Speeno and go for harder springs.