peteretep Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 how do slides seal around the ports? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 also, looked into bike throttle bodies? makes for easy manifold, plus cheap as jokers are all after bike carbs, not bodies. kwaka zx6r injected r1 (i think these are factory ones. maybe mod, though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 MINT BRO also, I got some dcoe bodies for like $200 for a pair secondhand (run on dyno then joker blew his 3s to bits in a fautus seven). they look choice, esp if you mount them with injectors firing from underneath. $590AUD brand new each though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 how do slides seal around the ports? They don't and as far as I am aware it isn't a problem. And look how hideous those bike throttles are. But the reality is that I just want some slide throttles and have done for some time now, so for ~$150-200 I will make some, it will probably be more work but to be honest I don't really care because they look sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Also I have 40 DHLAs on it at the moment and they suck, like all carbs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 dhlas + kent = match made in heaven then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 So slide carbs have no adjustment between cylinders? i guess thats normally pretty insignificant except at idle and nobody cares about idle, esp in a racecar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I will put bleed valves so I can even out the idle, but yea basically who cares. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyBreeze Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Yeah the only issue you might have is the slide not sealing properly and end up with a 3000rpm idle which could get old. Also, linear pot for TPS? Might have a hard time finding a sealed one that will last though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 If it does I will deal with it/ sort it out/put it on trademe. TPS I was just going to use a rotary one with a slotted arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 pretty sure you should just use an ultra dominator with 1BBL per cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Bumped this thread for two reasons: Cheers Nigel. But my shaft is a perfect length. Quite frankly I'm just amazed that no one stopped to pull him up on this one.Also,I see the Version 3 MS + daughter board thingy can run all sorts of fancy stuff... knock control, VVTI, coilpacks, full sequential injectors, outboard injectors, etc. What's the general consensus these days? Any better? Or still a bit of a bodge. Apart from the greivously painful setup and troubleshooting, is there anyone with something good to say about these things?My Dutch blood starts to stir when I look at the price of one hahaha. I've downloaded the tuning software and I'm confident I could setup and tune one myself. It's just the assembly/wiring/oscilliscope work that gives me the shits. Thankfully though my old man has a knack for these sorts of things and he's keen to put together an MS setup. I'm happy enough keeping the standard ECU, but for whatever reason a few load/rpm areas it doesnt run as well as it could, idle isnt great, and I wouldnt mind an extra 500-1000rpm. Too cheap for a Link considering an aftermarket ECU gains me next to nothing power wise, and fixes a few niggles rather than anything major. Cant help but think it's probably more trouble than it's worth though. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 I think the MS2 with a an extra board if you need the room is happy with all that stuff. I certainly can only give Ipraise for my MS. I have done over 10000 fault free kms. Its been easy to tune for a newbie, was easy to build and only cost me about $600 all in inc buying tuner studio for its autotune feature. I could easily if i like add extra features and learn more in the process as well. Really cool shit for me given I have never really been into electronics in anyway. In fact its been so fun I am really looking forwards to megasquirting the triumph when time comes. More betterer info here... //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34850-diy-fuel-injection-thread/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Binjection 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 if you have lots of time and not that much money ms is for you. if you have money and not much time link is for you. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 It took about a week or so of evenings, a few hours here or there, to assemble the unit. Wiring it into the car I think doesnt matter what ecu you use because you are either going to start fresh as I did and just make your own loom to suit (easy peesy) or hack into an existing loom. There are adaptors for many models of cars/engines from many ecu manufacturers including MS. I cant stress enough how fun it was to build, install and tune. My biggest gripe with MS is that there is almost too much info out there. Hannah and I were never sure which build manual to follow- either the Extra EFI one or the megamanual. We ended up following the Extra EFI one as it was cleaner and better written. I dont reckon you would have any problems with any of this Roman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 found the same re info. have spent hours sifting though various manuals to find a simple answer. which can be annoying. biggest drama you are likely to run into is the triggers and vvti. I'd research and find someone who has done it before on a beams 3s. before buying anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Yeah good advice... The crank angle sensor stuff is easy, as it's just a missing tooth wheel. But the cam angle sensor is a bit different, it has two teeth say 45 degrees apart from each other that sweep past the sensor per 360 degrees. Not sure if it's gonna shit itself when it 'sees' two of them at odd intervals or not. I'm not sure why it's got two anyway, I doubt it could measure anything useful in the time interval between one going past and the other.EDIT: Found this, looks simple enough actually. Just need to probably use a dial gauge on the cam to find out the position of the first and second teeth relative to (presumably?) max or min lift on cam for cyl #1. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/vvt.html So two teeth isnt a problem, nothing complicated about VVTI that couldnt work as above. Just firing a solenoid at the end of the day! Wonder if the coilpacks will work though, ever used the Toyota ones with MS, KPR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 coils should work no worries. ms is picky with vr sensor setups. the only ones ive seen work flawless on the denso cas (4age etc) have another add on board to condition the signal before the ms sees it. or use a aftermarket/custom trigger wheel setup. this is pretty much why i said find someone whos had one running on a beams. because you don't have much choice but to use the factory trigger setup. pretty much the main reason i dislike ms. factory ecu and ever other aftermarket ecu can work on factory triggers. but ms needs extra hardware once you have the triggers sorted. rest shouldn't be too much drama Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 I reckon you should just go for it. Anything is possible with a little digging and tinkering. Very satisfying! Edit : my ms worked sweet as with the factory mazda vr sensors. 36-1 trigger wheel. But im taking it that kpr is referring to cam angle sensors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Moved the posts over to make more sense, cheers Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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