Guest ProZac Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 I have no idea if that's helpful. but it was floating around in my head and I though it might be useful information to someone . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest yoeddynz Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Bloody useful tip there Zac!!! I'll try that one out. Today while pulling apart another spare loom I had I found the rest of the VR feed and discovered that it has the wires in the right colours. So I should be able to work it out now- but will still try your trick. While using the ruler I will of course have to make the dounggggdddddddddddddrrr sound on edge of bench.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest yoeddynz Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Double checked VR wiring. All good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Will the factory sensors run on my v4 link? Im mainly concerned about getting AFR values back form the 02 sensor? will i need to get a Wide Band 02 sensor? for my 4age Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Yes, you'll need a wideband to get accurate AFR's for tuning. The rest of the sensors will work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 v4 doesn't have wideband input. think it has narrow band input for close loop correction at cruise. but i wouldn't bother connecting any form of o2 sensor to a v4. who ever is tuning it needs a wideband. but once its tuned. you dont need one. factory water temp sensor is fine. select "ntc" factory triggers will work fine , as long as the link has the correct sub board. and you have the correct dizzy/cas to match. tell me the numbers off the sticker on the end of the link and what 4age/cas/dizzy you have tps. again doesn't do much on a v4. unless you are running in tps mode for itb's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 Best thing would be to get rid of the archaic link and go megasquirt. that's what the real tuners do.... Just throwing that out there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Best thing would be to get rid of the archaic link and go G4. that's what the real tuners do.... Just throwing that out there... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 OK so i might get one of those innovate things off the tard unless someone has one they would like rid of. Link details - does that v5 bit actually mean its got the V5 stuff in it? i was told it was v4 D42V5F 4AGZE 140109 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 yeh sounds like a v5. if its a v5 it should have an extra 4 pin plug on the opposite end to the main loom plug. but best way to know for sure is to power it up and connect laptop. v5 has bigger fuel map and few other extras. should be setup for 24 tooth and sync. so 4agze cas or smallport dizzy will work. run wasted spark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 yep ive got 4agze cas and mitsi coil pack. thanks kpr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Apologies if this is the wrong thread for it. But I've been trying to tweak the cold start settings on my Link G1 V5 and seem to be getting nowhere fast (doesn't help that I gotta leave the car sitting for hours in between each failed attempt). Now I know every car will be different, but I'm just after a general guideline rather than "this number will work". Also, I have no interest in throwing it away and buying a G4, I already did that with my Skyline. At the moment whenever you attempt to start the car bone cold, it will fire, catch, idle for about half a second but die straightaway. The second time you start it, 50% of the time will do the same thing, and only after the third attempt will it actually start and run (idles at around 1750rpm). Some people with V5s have said that their cars will run and idle like a bag of shit for the first 15-20 seconds, however mine doesn't do that at all, it runs nice and smooth but obviously only after you attempt to start it two or three times. When I fired up PCLink and loaded the original stored values, Warm-Up was set to 55 and Cold Crank was at 15. I have adjusted Cold Crank in increments of 5 from 15 to 25 but this hasn't seemed to have made any difference. Warm-Up stayed at 55 but yesterday I put Cold Crank back to 15 and changed Warm-Up to 65. Again, this made no difference. Should I just be entering values with a larger (>20) differential? Is there any sort of guideline as to the values, i.e. a high Cold Crank might make the car run like a bag of shit, but it will catch straightaway, or do I just have to keep whacking in numbers until I find that magical ratio where it just works? Cheers in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 what do the numbers refer to? do you know? is is % duty cycle or a time factor or what? I've got some tips for this in a book at home i'll try to remember to dig it out tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 yeh get more aggressive with the changes. try wind up the cold crank heaps more, try 40-50 edit: it may also be the numbers in the fuel map at cranking speed. if the above doesn't work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hmm, cool. From the Link tuning manual: Warm-UpAlmost without exception, engines require enrichment (richer mixture) during their warm-up period after being started from cold. The Warm-Up function controls this enrichment. The LEM monitors engine temperature and gradually reduces the amount of enrichment as the engine warms up. When the engine coolant temperature is above 70 ̊C no enrichment is provided. A larger number provides more enrichment. Cold Crank The Cold Crank function adjusts the amount of enrichment while the engine is cranked when cold and for a short period of time after starting. The actual amount of enrichment provided during cold starting depends on the Cold Crank value as well as the engine coolant temperature. When the engine temperature is above 40 ̊C no Cold Crank enrichment is provided. A larger number provides more enrichment. Doesn't say what the values actually refer to other than "bigger = more". Gonna head out to the shed again after dinner to give it another crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 i would say if you can crank it and it will catch then idle for a bit then die, the cold crank is fine, it is probably dieing when it tries to go from cold crank to warm up values so up the warm up values till it will catch and just keep running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 sounds like hes talking a much shorter time than that. cold crank will decay after its started. so guessing bigger number will likely hold for longer. i would try not to adjust the cold start much if the car runs and drives good when cold, once it is running. as you are adjusting the fuel right up to operating temp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 I just watched this and thought it would be a good addition to the thread. Courtesy or Tom's friend Denmah.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 Wow- the fella said near the end that he likes to see around 11 afr on boost! Thats a touch rich eh? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 yeh 11.0 is getting pretty rich, esp at only 10psi. also richens it it up way too soon for my liking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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