Muncie Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 OK what have I done wrong? Its 2k primer, it sprayed on fairly smooth but then after about 2-3 seconds it gets all these little crater marks in it. Maybe too much thinners or something? When was the last time you drained water from your tank on the compressor? You should hit your wax and grease remover with a dry cloth after scrubbing around to pick up the contaminants, similar to doing a cut and polish by hand works a treat but is tedious. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Haven't drained the compressor ever haha but it's got a brand new water trap in the line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Also do yourself a favour and buy a cheap da from hardware store hahaha, I bought my 5" aeg one from bunnings for like $100, and it has to be pretty close to my most used tool. But yea that looks like the paint reacting from what I can see on my phone. So yea probably solvent left on it, are you using a tack rag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Haven't drained the compressor ever haha but it's got a brand new water trap in the line I drain mine most times I use it, and there is always some in the tank. Good compressor too that isn't worked hard, so could be worth draining it to be sure it's not contributing. Water trap won't catch it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Cheers guys. DA is high on the Xmas list but I've blown my tools budget this month on paint and the gun. Don't have tac rags no, but have been using a brand new clean rag from mega10 each time with the prepsol, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 not a painter but seen plenty of fuck ups. moisture in air will ruin your paint, as will too much prepsol when wiping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unhuman Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Going to do some minor touch ups over the summer break. The existing paint is a base and seperate clear coat. When doing the touch up areas (about 10cm x 10cm) will I have to do the entire panel, or will I be able to blend in? I am worried that the new base will stand out in the blend area that will go over the exsiting clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Depends where is is? usually the best result is if you clear the whole panel. It is very dependant on the existing paint and how good your match is 10x10 is a pretty big seciton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Can you go to a bodyline or something? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Cheers guys. DA is high on the Xmas list but I've blown my tools budget this month on paint and the gun. Don't have tac rags no, but have been using a brand new clean rag from mega10 each time with the prepsol, I got a DA for Xmas so I sanded out the craters from the last fucked up attempt and had another go. Quite hot and dry today, I don't think I had enough thinners in it as it wasn't spraying very nicely. No moisture in it this time though It's ended up with a bit of a texture to it though. I'll give it a sand tomorrow and see if I can get it smooth without taking off so much that I need another coat. Wish me luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unhuman Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Depends where is is? usually the best result is if you clear the whole panel. It is very dependant on the existing paint and how good your match is 10x10 is a pretty big seciton. Thanks, I guess this is because the edge of the clearcoat will peel / flake over time? Will do for now I guess. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Looks good. Not as good as your plate though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Need some advice on rust, stripped the roof of the zephyr and there's heaps if little rust surface rust spot that are to deep to sand out, how do I nuetralise these? or do I just prime over them?.. also can someone reccomend me a good epoxy primer?.. thanks lots 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Go to bunnings and buy some phosphoric acid (its cheaper elsewhere but bunnings is easy) its called Rannex. Rub it in with some scotch brite and let it work for 10min, clean with water to nuetralise then I rub it down with wax and grease and a green scotch brite. Should end up with clean white steel good for epoxy. For epoxy maybe just visit a few paint stores and get prices. If you have a Protec supplier in your area they should be close to the cheapest (but still a good entry level brand, owned by PPG) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 If you have a Protec supplier in your area they should be close to the cheapest (but still a good entry level brand, owned by PPG) Epotec 408 is the go. Protec - Christchurch 53 Wickham Street, Christchurch Tel: 03 376 6020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Do that, get a 4L kit with thinners. Buy some bulk wax and grease & gun-wash while you are there (its much more economical in 20L lots, always gets used) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Ahh.. I ended up getting some lechler epoxy, bad decision? I read somewhere that using phosphoric was a bad idea, it's what I was gonna use anyway but confirmation is great.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Or an alternative to the the 408 is AP-4110 epoxy primer. The 408 is a Barrier made product out of europe whereas the AP-4110 is a PPG lower end product. "Lower end" doesn't mean shit product tho'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Ahh.. I ended up getting some lechler epoxy, bad decision? Nothing wrong with Lechler. Just another euro brand that's been fighting for market share here for a few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 You'll be fine man, the differences between brands/types are subtle. Some sand better, some lay down smoother (well easier to get smooth). If there are differences in adhesion etc you won't ever notice once you have 10 other coats of shit on there, it will stick well if its a actual brand. The only bad side to phosphoric acid is that you don;t want it trapped in seams, where it can reactivate and cause rust when water gets in. Otherwise don;t be scared to wash it with fuck loads of water (if its a exterior panel) don't let the product dry on the panel (keep applying if needed). The rust will vanish, just rub it down like crazy with scotch brite(with wax and grease as lube) after, you want the panel to be clean white steel before paint. Its a great method, no real draw backs, don;t use it on hardened steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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