Bellicose Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 If ya have any Protec Q's let me know. Owned a paint & panel distributorship in HB in late '90s and Fortec was my main brand. It was Fortec back then as the name 'Protec' was already owned by a company in NZ. It was bought into NZ by a turkey by the name of Ferguson (He was the guy who started and made the 'Mendent' brand of body filler, which he sold to CRC and made a killing, so started a winery in Tutukaka and also started importing Protec from the two guys that owned it in south oz) Anyway, a few years ago PPG bought out (as PPG do) Protec in oz and the paint manufacturer with the name Protec in nz, so that's a (very brief) history of Protec in nz LOL. Sorry for rant. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 speaking of shops for such things, are there any nz web shops that will send you this stuff? or need to just figure out exactly whats needed and get on the phone all barry like to get them to send it to smalltownland? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fengqiu Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 i think sheepers was using the jokers in onehunga for protec stz Auckland Industrial Paint Supplies http://www.autoindustrialpaints.co.nz/ website is blocked at work for some dumb filter reason so cant check if thats the right one oh sweet, it looks like they do trade prices , Just found an old post by Spencer, you're like a legend on this thread haha what do you mean by, bang on a layer, then 'let it flash'? do you mean just leave it for a little bit then bang on a second layer while it's still wet? (I'm talking about exterior for a car ) Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 yeah the old boys motto is trade prices for everyone, he'll tell you that for free etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 what do you mean by, bang on a layer, then 'let it flash'? do you mean just leave it for a little bit then bang on a second layer while it's still wet? (I'm talking about exterior for a car ) Thanks You have to explain what process you are talking about? take all pages before the current one as rough guides only, usually the yarns are specific to something. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fengqiu Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 You have to explain what process you are talking about? take all pages before the current one as rough guides only, usually the yarns are specific to something. You usually talk about getting 2 pack epoxy primer then put a hard 2k coat over it, but you say to spray on whilst it's still wet, I don't really understand what you mean by this, should you just spray the second coat straight away? But yeah, I'm going to paint the exterior of my car, just wondering what the best way to go about this would be. it's a little lancer lb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Oh well wet on wet is when you paint a primer (epoxy on bare metal, 2K urethane primer for fill & block work) you then let the thinners flash out of the primer (plus some extra wait time) then paint the urthane 2K top coat (or baseocat) straight over the primer with no intermediate sanding stage. This is a fairly common paint system, epoxy primers have a recoat window sometimes of 24h so you can clean and paint over them in that 24h window with no sanding. On the outside of a car you want to get it straight as possible so the above method is only good for engine bays, door shuts, suspension parts etc. The outside should be done with epoxy first (over bare metal or old paint job) then rough block work on this, then bog work, seal bog work in epoxy, then 2K urthane high build primer, block sand the car smooth with guide coat (i use dry), then more 2K urthane primer in a thin coat, then final prep (400/600 wet or dry depending) then base coat/clear coat or single stage 2K on top. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fengqiu Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Oh well wet on wet is when you paint a primer (epoxy on bare metal, 2K urethane primer for fill & block work) you then let the thinners flash out of the primer (plus some extra wait time) then paint the urthane 2K top coat (or baseocat) straight over the primer with no intermediate sanding stage. This is a fairly common paint system, epoxy primers have a recoat window sometimes of 24h so you can clean and paint over them in that 24h window with no sanding. On the outside of a car you want to get it straight as possible so the above method is only good for engine bays, door shuts, suspension parts etc. The outside should be done with epoxy first (over bare metal or old paint job) then rough block work on this, then bog work, seal bog work in epoxy, then 2K urthane high build primer, block sand the car smooth with guide coat (i use dry), then more 2K urthane primer in a thin coat, then final prep (400/600 wet or dry depending) then base coat/clear coat or single stage 2K on top. Thank you. This is a great guideline for someone like me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 I have been working on painting the fairings on my wifes bike. They have lots of holes/shapes/vents etc in them and I find that by the time I have sprayed them from a few angles to get inside and then done the fairing around them, I've got quite alot of paint in the area nearby and end up with sags/runs. Could I solve this by painting the inside of the odd shaped bits, then waiting the 3-5mins between coats, then coming back and painting the flat areas of the fairing around the tricky bits? Or is there another trick to these kind of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 You probably need a touch up style gin for that kind of work, if you want a nice finish you need to try get even coats in. I will wind the paint out of my 1.3/1.4 good gun and just dust coat around the tricky parts best you can, then even coat the whole thing, I assume you are using base-coat which levels out pretty well due to the high solvent content. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Hey spenno, I can still lay on over flashed off primer on the outside? because racecar/lazy/doesn't need to be too flash. Naturally if it turns really pear shaped with runs/disaster then yeah I'll sand it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 There is no problem with that. Runs arent the problem with wet-wet coating, that is a problem of too much paint or badly mixed paint. Wet on wet main problems are not flashing the product for long enough, then you get shitty reactions. It 100% will be wavy as fuck and look gross if you don't block sand it flat somewhere along the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 It'll be going plain fridge white to an old EF civic hillclimb machine with almost no panel work taking place. Being a bit wavy will be the least of its problems.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Well in that case then you want to lay down 2 coats of epoxy, then bang your single stage 2k top coat white on and forget. Less paint = faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guypie Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 So I covered some rust repairs and rust treatments in protec epotec 408, I used the right reducer at 20% when spraying. I put it on way too thick but this is mostly because it seemed really trasparent. Did I do something wrong or is it just really transparent? It doesnt really matter as its just to protect the metal and the car will be painted later but its just a bit weird, normally primers are opaque. example: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I have been working on painting the fairings on my wifes bike. They have lots of holes/shapes/vents etc in them and I find that by the time I have sprayed them from a few angles to get inside and then done the fairing around them, I've got quite alot of paint in the area nearby and end up with sags/runs. Could I solve this by painting the inside of the odd shaped bits, then waiting the 3-5mins between coats, then coming back and painting the flat areas of the fairing around the tricky bits? Or is there another trick to these kind of things. Mate, if ya want i can pop 'round and give ya a hand and / or advice. So I covered some rust repairs and rust treatments in protec epotec 408, I used the right reducer at 20% when spraying. I put it on way too thick but this is mostly because it seemed really trasparent. Did I do something wrong or is it just really transparent? It doesnt really matter as its just to protect the metal and the car will be painted later but its just a bit weird, normally primers are opaque. example: Not assuming ya didn't but.........ya did stir it REALLY well didn't ya? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 The paint is full of solids so no it shouldn't be transparent. As above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Also, what tip does your gun have? Something like Epotec needs a minimum of a 1.8 setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 So I covered some rust repairs and rust treatments in protec epotec 408, I used the right reducer at 20% when spraying. I put it on way too thick but this is mostly because it seemed really trasparent. Did I do something wrong or is it just really transparent? It doesnt really matter as its just to protect the metal and the car will be painted later but its just a bit weird, normally primers are opaque. example: i just do that kind of shit with a micro roller no over spray no gun to clean. Mainly because i did a few commercial painting jobs and have boxes of the things handy for dings etc sands up nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 yeah the old boys motto is trade prices for everyone, he'll tell you that for free etc etc just a note on auto industrial in nelson street, the old barry just sold the business to another old barry. the guy who mixes and knows the protec range really well is still there but who knows what the future holds for the "trade prices for all" motto. I've bought one thing from there since the turnover and i got a discount but old barry number 2 didn't serve me. even without a discount the protec paints are a quarter of the price of anything else though so its still good value. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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