Nominal Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Anyone use a ZP (Zinc Phosphate) primer for weldthrough duties? I guess I need to pick up some, probably a spray bomb as welding though 1K primer/ top coat is a bit nasty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hey guys, I'm contemplating spraying my race car project myself, mainly for money reasons and if successful it would be a good skill/equipment to have. Have read lots here but have some questions. Mask: - Can any one suggest what kind of mask and filters I should use for home use? Compressor: - For something like am Iwata W400 or W101 with 1.3mm tip, from what I understand these only need 20-30psi at the gun. What kind of compressor is needed to run this? I only have a Blackridge cheapy compressor (2,5hp 112l from memory) and another small 2hp one that I could possibly run both together, shouldn't be that hard. I'd probably run on separate circuits to no blow a fuse. Is this silly? Paint for home use: - What is best suited to a novice at home with a basic filter mask? - How much should I be paying for enough paint to cover the whole car in plain white. (s13 hatch) - The car already has nice white paint (pretty sure its not base with clear coat type) on front guards, bonnet and passenger door (not standard colour). Should I bother trying to get it matched? Fibreglass: - Do I need to worry about painting fibreglass? I've had rattle can mixed colour crack on a previous car on plastic bumper, but that was only when it was bent a bit. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Mask: - Can any one suggest what kind of mask and filters I should use for home use? 3m are good. Just make sure that you check that you get the right filter that works with solvent. They also come in 3 different sizes, but normal stock is Medium. Annoying as I did not know this and have 2 med when I have a large face. Compressor: - For something like am Iwata W400 or W101 with 1.3mm tip, from what I understand these only need 20-30psi at the gun. What kind of compressor is needed to run this? I only have a Blackridge cheap compressor (2,5hp 112l from memory) and another small 2hp one that I could possibly run both together, shouldn't be that hard. I'd probably run on separate circuits to no blow a fuse. Is this silly? I cant help with technical painting things but compressors I can. I cannot say what the gun should be running. But its more about your FAD(free Air delivery) than the PSI needed. Is it HVLP? Compressors are rated in CFM. Most cfm ratings that you will see advertised are biased on the compressors capacity to intake air. This is deceiving as it’s the FAD which is measured at output that is the important factor. The lower the PSI the higher the FAD ie I need a compressor that will output 30ish CFM. I do not need this as most of my working pressures are at 40-50 psi. and I need 20ish CFM. But if I have to wind the pressure up on a job I need the extra capacity to maintain that 20cfm at a higher PSI. Make sense? Im not up to what you need for spraying but my brain is telling me that you will ideally need 12cfm FAD ? Rule of thumb is 3CFM FAD per HP of motor. So with 4.5hp you will be getting 13.5cfm fad. This should be enough. Try and get a tank to use as a receiver, both compressors plumbed in to the one tank to act as an air store. This is also important as it helps cool the air after compression. As a result it also works as a water trap as the condensation will be in the tank and reduce the amount of water in your airline. Still use a proper water trap but the extra tank will help. . And don’t use air line that has had auto oilers on them as the oil in the air line will mess up your paint. Go have a look at the gunman on youtube. Lots of videos but also has some real good gun set up and reviews. IM a novice my self but have been watching lots of his videos for inspiration and trade tips/tech. he also has a gun review video and has a recommendation for a devilbus that is a real good price and he says it out performs many many much higher priced guns. Fiberglass. Yes paint it if you want. You will need to prime then give it a real good visual inspection. Paint often fisheyes with glass. We had ended up using a specific primer gel coat in the fibre glass factory I worked in for the Winnebago camper rear panels as they were painted after installation. If it dose. Sand that part/spot down use a little filler prep and spot prime then prep as normal for the top coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I've seen a few of The Gunman's video and they are good, haven't seen the Devilbliss review. I am still thinking about an Iwata if I can find a good one second hand. Can't justify getting new. I'm going to experiment with running type direct drive 'cheap' compressors and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 1 hour ago, ~Slideways~ said: I've seen a few of The Gunman's video and they are good, haven't seen the Devilbliss review. I am still thinking about an Iwata if I can find a good one second hand. Can't justify getting new. I'm going to experiment with running type direct drive 'cheap' compressors and see what happens. spot prime with wee compressor, but do the full top coats with decent (12CFM +) compressor, even it you have to borrow/hire you won't regret it. wee compressors with wee tanks create to much water and will screw your paint ( even with water trap) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 8 minutes ago, smokin'joe said: spot prime with wee compressor, but do the full top coats with decent (12CFM +) compressor, even it you have to borrow/hire you won't regret it. wee compressors with wee tanks create to much water and will screw your paint ( even with water trap) Interesting info about the water building up with a smaller tank. I have two, one is a small 2hp unit and the other is a 2.5hp direct drive with a 40L tank so reasonably big, but won't be anywhere near 12cfm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 ususally smaller pump creates more water as the motor is constantly running, generating heat that then condenses into water in the tank. fucked the finish on several furniture/ joinery items due to running small direct drive compressors way back in the day. i use my trusty Ingersoll Rand 16cfm for everything now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordon KE... Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Hey guys, can someone give me some advise on where to buy consumables at a reasonable price to strip the old ute to bare steel? I guess im after some of the porous stripping discs a. Also the Thailand wellside will need smoothing out so for that i would need sanding pads? Can anyone give me some advise before I start this prep work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 OK, one step closer to being able to paint. I bought a second hand Iwata W400 with LV2 cap, which is 1.3mm. I'm now trying to figure out what kind of paint I should use, I thought that 2K was a no no at home, is this correct? I want to paint the car white, but unsure if I should go with a single stage or base with clear? I will be doing door jams and lots of fibreglass as well. Any help would be appreciated. EDIT: Can a 2K paint like this be used at home? I thought acrylic was ok... or is it the hardener? http://totalbodyshop.co.nz/item.php?id=4526 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M M Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 8 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said: OK, one step closer to being able to paint. I bought a second hand Iwata W400 with LV2 cap, which is 1.3mm. I'm now trying to figure out what kind of paint I should use, I thought that 2K was a no no at home, is this correct? I want to paint the car white, but unsure if I should go with a single stage or base with clear? I will be doing door jams and lots of fibreglass as well. Any help would be appreciated. Not sure about the laws on 2k, I have sprayed it at home but I would imagine it would be frowned upon as it is apparently very bad for you and you shouldn't even let it touch you skin. That said I am still alive and functioning, but for how long, I can't say. However I was out of breath for a couple of days afterwards, which I didn't quite realise the extent of until I went to training the next day and almost passed out. I was spraying outside with a mask, so make sure you get a very good mask. Single pack should be fine as long as it doesn't contact fuel as fuel eats it quick, so be careful when filling the car up. I've always felt more comfortable spraying a clear even if over a gloss paint just for protection if nothing else. But you can go just single stage if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 19 minutes ago, M M said: Not sure about the laws on 2k, I have sprayed it at home but I would imagine it would be frowned upon as it is apparently very bad for you and you shouldn't even let it touch you skin. That said I am still alive and functioning, but for how long, I can't say. However I was out of breath for a couple of days afterwards, which I didn't quite realise the extent of until I went to training the next day and almost passed out. I was spraying outside with a mask, so make sure you get a very good mask. Single pack should be fine as long as it doesn't contact fuel as fuel eats it quick, so be careful when filling the car up. I've always felt more comfortable spraying a clear even if over a gloss paint just for protection if nothing else. But you can go just single stage if you want. I just read the Safety Data Sheet and it sounds nasty. I am thinking 1K is worth using because of the 2K risk to not only me but getting into the house so the wife and toddler and even dog if she's outside. I am planning on either making a diy plastic booth outside, or using a second small garage (probably not enough room) and sealing roof with plastic sheets since it is below a room, even if we don't use it much. I guess I've answered my own question, I should use 1k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 I went with 1K for safety reasons. RALI wouldn't sell me 2K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 40 minutes ago, Nominal said: I went with 1K for safety reasons. RALI wouldn't sell me 2K. Thanks, good to know. Is it really that easy for fuel to damage it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 spill fuel all over my john deere 1k morris minor all the time and its fine tbh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 I'd go 2 part, it's most likely illegal to spray it but it's so much more durable. Like a million times better. In my opinion you would have to wear the wrong mask to psychically fell ill effects on your system from the isocyanates in urethane paint. Although some people may be hyper sensitive? I can never smell paint in my mask. Read here (it's one of the first things that popped up on google, they actually say it's not even that bad in paint form, well sorta) http://www.safeworkaustralia.gov.au/sites/SWA/about/Publications/Documents/514/Isocyanates.pdf anyway I wore a 3M face mask, put a film of wax/grease barrier shit on my exposed face bits, googles, a paint suit and sprayed a million things. The ciggies I have smoked in the past probably have fucked me up more haha. Be safe though and spray with ventilation of some kind. 1k acrylic will be easier and cheaper for sure but polyurethane is the superior technology. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 ventilation like...a summer breeze? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Yeah man outside for us is the best unless you drop coin on a extraction fan. That's how I did the buick taolgate the second time and all my 2k primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 I need to touch up some paint witch I think is enamel, could I give it a buff with fine sandpaper and spray it with a lacquer spray can? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellicose Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 On 4/22/2017 at 20:59, SOHC said: I need to touch up some paint witch I think is enamel, could I give it a buff with fine sandpaper and spray it with a lacquer spray can? What is the enamel on? If it's on an old car it should be baked enamel. What you do is lightly dust on a couple of coats to see if it 'reacts'. If it doesn't you're good to go, if it does you're f**ked and it needs to be sealed first. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 39 minutes ago, Bellicose said: What is the enamel on? If it's on an old car it should be baked enamel. What you do is lightly dust on a couple of coats to see if it 'reacts'. If it doesn't you're good to go, if it does you're f**ked and it needs to be sealed first. Its on a motorcycle witch was painted 30+ years ago, I just had to weld up a split in the guard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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