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PAINT THREAD


dylan

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Whats a good option for interior paint? want to repaint the inside of the Niva, more to sort some rust and further prevention, but as I have no carpets it needs to be hard wearing, i've looked at hammerite etc but having a black interior isn't that awesome, anyone tried white/silver? or do I not worry and just run with the mixed lacquer?

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depends if you are painting on bare metal/well prepped surface or over other paint. por15 doesn't stick great to other paint I used it in my jeep and its flaked in a lot of places it was over the factory paint. that said I didn't prep it well which is probably most of the issue. But the other thing to note with por 15 and painting inside the car is the fumes - even though I was outside with the doors open I ended up too close to the paint while painting a lot of hard to reach areas and felt shitty from it for a number of days afterwards. definitely respect that stuff and wear a mask with appropriate filters if you have one, or at least absolutely keep your distance from the wet paint and fumes.

if spencer is still alive he will chime in and tell us we are all dweebs to forget that garbage and run proper epoxy. if you read this whole thread that story and all the requisite information is here.

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13 hours ago, Bling said:

Have run hammerite, should be sweet as. Used white on some rust repairs no worries. Used some crinkle finish silver on a bike frame. All seemed fine to me.

I painted the interior of my Starlet racecar with hammerite smooth white. It seemed to take weeks to properly harden. Otherwise it's okay. It's much more forgiving in the prep than POR15.  

 

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Tried hammerite on my gas tank. It all rusted and peeled off after 12 months.

All stripped to bare metal and was never splashed with fuel so idk, didn't appeal to try again.

 

I'd probably go some durapox and prep it properly. If you brush it on there's "no" isocyanate to worry about if you wear overalls and gloves.

Can actually get some disposable respirators from 3m that although are not advertised as such, are good enough to spray 1 car with 2 pack paint

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Yup if you can spray I would use 2 part epoxy, it doesn't murder you (less/no isocyanates) as much as Urethane 2 part paint. The killer combo is 3-4 coats epoxy primer and then wet coat 2-3 coats of cheap industrial 2 part urethane. Por-15 is good enough, its a single part urethane that cures through moisture, if you nail the prep it works OK and is easy to apply but it does not adhere as well as epoxy to clean prepped metal, not even close. If you do the epoxy and urethane method you get the hardness of POR on top (probably harder) and the adhesion underneath so its doesn't scratch and flake easy. POR also has bad reactions with most silicone (sicaflex etc) seam sealers found on floors (it falls off when in contact with most sealers) where you can seal the floor and blast right over with epoxy.

For the mask as above bunnings has 3M masks that will keep the death out, do it outside and cover your skin and eyes fully (barrier cream on your face even). You will not die, the cyanide builds up slowly over long exposures so just don't make it your day job and don't get any lungs full or let the vapor on your eyes. Dane is still alive and he's a rebel with paint haha.

I did the floor on the Buick twice (did POR first and was not satisfied with how it sticks) and have done a few car floors and things for others since. A 4L tin of 2 part epoxy primer is like the car restoration 101 product, can brush it on everywhere and it holds out to heat better than any weld through primer in a can once its cured.

Personally unless I was selling a car i would not use any off the shelf single part paints for big coverage areas, its old technology and will fall off and fail many times faster than the above things mentioned.

/broken record

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On 10/28/2017 at 21:22, Truenotch said:

What's the go with prep guys? 

Epoxy primer, followed by filler, followed by more primer, followed by top coats? Or filler straight onto bare metal? 

I'm going to be prepping my engine bay soon. 

This is relative to my interests. 

Is epoxy primer a spray gun only thing?

Whats the best rattle can option?

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Don't touch your classic car with rattle can paints for a long term fix IMO. Like seriously if you have a car you want to keep then only quality 2 part paints would be my choice, they will out last you if you get it right.

Epoxy primer can be brushed on for smaller jobs, it just goes on thick and lumpy (I brush it all over the back of rust patches and inside cavities). Filler if you read the data sheet is designed to adhere to clean white steel, it also will stick well to prepped epoxy primer. It will usually peel rattle can paint right off, it will peel most single stage primers off as it reacts and sets (learn this the hard way back in the day)

Seam sealer needs to be compatible with your paint system (test it). You can do it on the steel or on top of epoxy primer (again data sheets are your friend). If you have a compatible system (you can cobble together brands to make your paint "system") for a engine bay you can make some shortcuts and cut out 1 million of sanding. You can seam seal on the steel (a good 2 part sealer maybe), you can bog on the steel and spot prime until its flat and invisible. Then prep the steel one last time and we coat it in epoxy X 3-4 coats, then wet coat some good urethane on top x 3-4+ coats and its done with no intermediate sanding steps. Prep all your engine bay parts, hang them and do them all wet on wet at once if you are keen.

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So @AllTorque for a rust patch, brush on epoxy primer inside the repair area and on the back of the patch and let it set overnight, it holds out to welding heat better than anything else once its cured properly (couple days even better). Then hammer and grind it flat, finish dress it with sanding disc and epoxy prime a few coats with a brush and it will hold up until you get paint on it. I wouldn't drive around for a long time with just epoxy primer though, its a good seal but top coat urethane is way more durable to the elements (UV is harsh shit as is road grime)

 

 

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Happy to help in here all I can man, I helped on a few cars after the Buick and the methodology gets better as you make more fuck ups.

You are really in for a huge job once you start digging into fixing the body work on a car like that. Keeping it on the road while you do fix ups is a tough proposition. Kinda have to have a big shed and strip it and be prepared for 2 years of paint resto, you get the best results just doing it all. So much time and money though so yeah, tough.

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