Spencer Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 The preparation for bare steel is sand paper, not etch primer. http://www.ppglic.com.au/uploads/tds/408%20Epotec%20Epoxy%20Primer%20(2).pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guypie Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Cool thats kinda what I thought. He was probably trying to get me to but 2 tins of paint instead of 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 more likely he is a wally 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 He is the kind of guy that makes choosing car paint so hard for everyone! I feel like car paint is the most misunderstood thing when it comes to DIY, when all you should be doing is using the commonly used products that every restoration shop would use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Spence is probably going to shoot me, but I put 1k etch under 2k primer hahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 We can't be friends now. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Etch should only be used in a production environment or if you want to save $$ because the car is shitty, production environment is the same thing as saving $$ on a shitty car TBH. Its 1960's tech, we have chemicals that are better now. I only say this shit because I used to use etch and lacquer all the time and it sucks. When you use some wax and grease on a solvent based paint and the a little colour comes off in the rag you soon realise how shit the durability of those products are. Or maybe you spill some fuel on your 3-4 year old lacquer and it stains, oh joy. I remember my neighbor got me into epoxy and 2k paint for my 85 engine bay when I was a youngin, OH WOW THAT'S WHAT PROPER PAINT IS. Leave some mixed up in the pot and it turns into a hard piece of rubber/plastic all the god damn way through. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 I'm going to the paint shop soon, I'm going to ask what industrial single pac moisture cured urethanes they have now days. Basically POR-15 without a BS marketing campaign and a proper datasheet that tells you to use it over a primer not just slap it everywhere like a mad man. If you can put it in cans this is probably the go for cunts to paint little engine bay thingys etc. They still have isocyanates and are probably more deadly than 2k urethane, but that shit is much better than rattle cans off the shelf. 3/3 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 last time i was at the paint shop, i was talking to the guys about this very thing, POR actually have such a product, might be this stuff. http://www.por15.com/TOP-COAT_p_102.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AGEMAD Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Has anyone used this Finex FX3000 paint gun? http://www.amazon.com/FINEX-FX3000-1-3MM-HVLP-GUN/dp/B001C74C5E/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1432809718&sr=1-4-catcorr&keywords=Sharpe+FX3000+HVLP I'm wanting to spray my car, homemade booth, low cfm compressor (approx 8.5cfm). Any other gun ideas for spraying 2k will be appreciated. Already have a cheapo gun for primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I scored a bloody expensive spray gun from my last work after they went airless. Have used it this weekend to paint inside my house most the time its sweet and sprays real nice with nearly no overspray then for no real reason it goes all splatty and shit and throws big droplets of paint everywhere. This is with waterbased paint running off a pressure pot However i have used it to paint a car before with glass like results in laquor same problem would crop up occasionally. Im planning to paint my race trailer soon with it so curious as to whether it is a seal or nozzle problem its a devilbiss Jga gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Checked the filter in it? I replace them at least every semi sizable job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Shit in the paint at a guess if the gun is properly clean. Don't run those in pot filters, I just disposable filter everything that goes in the gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Spencer is into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 you just run none Spence? Even with filtering paint I still get lil bits of shit in it on occasion... prob left over from the last job haha. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I think those things are shit house man. I have a box of the disposable filters (like 200 of them) and just run all paint through those. I pull my guns completely apart every time they have paint through them and wash the shit out of them with thinner. Need to look into contamination in the air also I think if you still have issues. I mean if the gun is immaculate and the paint has gone through a filter on the way in then there is no reason for any splatter at all (unless its water etc in the air). Its just logical right? relying on that little mesh thing that will block up and make it worse seems counter-intuitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 yeah Ive just never tried without it. Might give it a go next time. If we are being honest Im not the best at cleaning the gun to spec above haha. Gaz 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 please can someone help me out. I am having some trouble in choosing a paint system to paint up my tinny we little mini engine and gearbox. i have been to 3 different paint suppliers, none of them had any idea . i am shocked to be honest. I have wasted so much time and its really winding me up. the engine is completely stripped clean bare,i paint stripped it , then wire wheeled the bits it didn't lift off , and then washed down with water/neutralized the stripper , dried it out, then washes it down with meths so its nice and clean and oil free. the engine is cast iron. and the box is aluminum . so , i have a compressor with air dryer system, a ok spray gun, i can paint, and follow instructions , I'm competent and have had allot of success in the past painting . but what i lack is the knowledge about paint ie: what is best for what etc. so i don't know what kind of paint to use in this situation, i want it to be tough, as its going to get hot and have to deal with petrol/oil/ engine degreaser, and it needs to be strong to resist chipping off from being knocked around a wee bit on the install . etc. . . If anyone can recommend me a person/place to get a good paint system from that would be great. (am in Auckland). so far all the reps and counter staff i have had to deal with have been absolutely no help at all. even to the point were they tell me they cant supply me paint cause they don't know what to supply!! i am not keen on using any spray can stuff, purely because ever time i have painted anything from a spray can its turned out shit or wipes of with cleaning solutions, this is why i invested in some painting gear so i can do the job properly. any help from you paint gurus would be greatly appreciated. thanks : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Go to protec (someone in AK will chime in where they are). What you need to do is just use the same system I harp on about here over and over haha. Epoxy and 2 pac paint on top. Most engine paints are just enamel and are crappy. Spray the epoxy down and then wet coat the 2k paint right over top after it has flashed, no sanding etc. This is called wet on wet, tell the guy at protec this is what you want to do and he should give you the right shit (hopefully) it should just be there normal automotive paint but there is a few different epoxy primers so you want the right one. I learned this off American hotrod of all things (their body whop was pretty legit) they epoxy and 2 pac painted all their engines and this intrieged me. I have since confirmed with a bunch of people that this is a sweet method. 2 pac urethane paint is about as good as it gets for solvent resistance and for being hard wearing. It will burn off around exhaust ports etc but all paint will pretty much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 http://www.autoindustrialpaints.co.nz/ these guys stock protec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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