cletus Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 2 minutes ago, Kerry-TGI said: @cletus I've seen this but am a bit confused about what it is actually stating What does it mean "wheel rim above horizontal plane"? The way I read it is... Only the tread on the top half of the tire can't stick out past the guard, but the tread on the bottom half can. So you could have loads of negative camber and be all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 9 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said: I can tick that box on the tread but the wheel still sticks out a bit beyond that, which is the part I'm having a hard time finding clarification on. At the end of the day I'll find out if I get pulled up for it but be good to know the shit for sure, if I've got a leg to stand on or not. You mean you have a lot of stretch on the tyre so the rim is out wider than the tread? It looks like they could pull you up on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 According to the wof manual The tyre TREAD must be covered to at least the middle of the wheel height ie the centerline of the hub However in real life this often does not happen and nobody enforces it There are literally thousands of cars around that don't meet this rule Cert rules are slightly different 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 21 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said: Do you guys know if my wheels will sneak in a wof? They stick out about 25mm but the tread is covered If it's a Ranger you'll be fine. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 I'm intrigued as to what you are driving with this setup. Is it legit balloon tyres or just a poor choice of wrong offset wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 21, 2022 Share Posted September 21, 2022 They can also get you on this section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted September 22, 2022 Share Posted September 22, 2022 Got the letter about the cardan shaft handbrake today regarding the bus. Seems a bit of a shitfight as they will be testing these on a rolling road but they also state these type of handbrakes should not be engaged while moving...? Time to bump up the adjustment anyway I guess. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARDRB Posted September 28, 2022 Share Posted September 28, 2022 Dearest Clint, After reading on here that someone had to move their brake lines away from their driveshaft, I read this in my July 2022 copy of the Hobby Car Manual. Quote 8.7.4 Hydraulic brake pipe which is mounted adjacent to any drive- shafts in a low volume vehicle that has been modified in such a way as to substantially increase power output, must either: (a) be re-directed away from the vicinity of the drive-shaft; or (b) be protected from a drive-shaft failure by a 360-degree safety loop at each end of the drive-shaft, positioned within 150 mm (6”) of each drive-shaft universal. I'm putting a 1uz into a ke70/ce71/dx wagon, which has the brake and fuel lines running down the tunnel from factory. 1) Do I need to re-route these lines? 2) If I don't re-route them do I need two drive-shaft loops on my single piece driveshaft? 3) Can I make a shield of sorts to protect these lines instead? 4) Am I correct in thinking that the 150mm mentioned above is out of date and contradicts the 250mm in 9.24.1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 28, 2022 Share Posted September 28, 2022 29 minutes ago, GARDRB said: Dearest Clint, After reading on here that someone had to move their brake lines away from their driveshaft, I read this in my July 2022 copy of the Hobby Car Manual. I'm putting a 1uz into a ke70/ce71/dx wagon, which has the brake and fuel lines running down the tunnel from factory. 1) Do I need to re-route these lines? i would suggest doing so 2) If I don't re-route them do I need two drive-shaft loops on my single piece driveshaft? yes 3) Can I make a shield of sorts to protect these lines instead? you would need to get a variation from tech requirements for that 4) Am I correct in thinking that the 150mm mentioned above is out of date and contradicts the 250mm in 9.24.1? I would say yes although for the front one, I dunno if the rear one could be 250 forward of the rear u joint See edited quote In the whole time I've been doing certs I've only done a couple of cars where the owner has fitted a rear loop , it's easier and much better in my opinion to move the pipes, if a car has enough extra power to fit into that requirement then it usually has a fuel system upgrade anyway so needs extra clamps and a new pipe made A rear loop is also difficult to get right as it has to allow for full suspension travel and pinion angle change so it has to be a big oval shape. Often on a lowered car driveshaft clearance to the tunnel is borderline especially with a bigger than stock shaft so adding a loop that will stop the shaft hitting the pipes can make clearance challenging And it won't help if the shaft fails in any other way than u joint failure. If it lets go in the middle then it will still take out the lines. At least if the lines are moved away that's one less thing to get damaged 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted September 28, 2022 Share Posted September 28, 2022 What about a floor pan that dictates where lines are run? ie my hunter doesn’t have “chassis rails” as such between the front rails and rear rails. So around 1m of flat floor pan. I feel that moving fuel/brake lines to this location out of the tunnel will create a far greater issue. but what do they class as a “substantial increase” in power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 28, 2022 Share Posted September 28, 2022 50% increase over oe There's usually somewhere they can go, up against the sill etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted September 28, 2022 Share Posted September 28, 2022 Can you run brake and fuel lines inside the cabin? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 28, 2022 Share Posted September 28, 2022 Yes, with conditions Brake lines have to be able to be inspected at wofs so you would need to have no carpet or make a flap in the carpet for inspections. Unless the brake pipe is inside the car factory then that doesn't apply Fuel lines can be in cabin , can't have any joins inside cabin though 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted September 29, 2022 Share Posted September 29, 2022 Does anybody know if changing from a fleetside normal ute deck to a flatdeck tipping bed need to be run through LVV? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted September 29, 2022 Share Posted September 29, 2022 13 minutes ago, dmulally said: Does anybody know if changing from a fleetside normal ute deck to a flatdeck tipping bed need to be run through LVV? @cletus and if already certified as a flat -deck, does it need re-cert for making it tipping, if no welding to subframe was required ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3spct Posted September 30, 2022 Share Posted September 30, 2022 Annoying driveshaft hoops.... Self drilling teks are this shit tho aye 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 30, 2022 Share Posted September 30, 2022 9 hours ago, dmulally said: Does anybody know if changing from a fleetside normal ute deck to a flatdeck tipping bed need to be run through LVV? I read the threshold, and the way I read it, if a tip tray was bolted to all factory mounting points it wouldn't need cert. If you are re certing for your engine swap then it would be best if you can get it all covered at once 9 hours ago, smokin'joe said: @cletus and if already certified as a flat -deck, does it need re-cert for making it tipping, if no welding to subframe was required ? Grey area. The mod itself as above would be below threshold , but, if it was converted to a tipper then it wouldn't match the cert, so you may have issues at wof time 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted September 30, 2022 Share Posted September 30, 2022 2 hours ago, R3spct said: That exhaust makes mine look like I stacked dimes on it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted September 30, 2022 Share Posted September 30, 2022 25 minutes ago, Bling said: That exhaust makes mine look like I stacked dimes on it. looks like a 4" feck-up that needed a wee filla piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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