For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[Bling 20,744]

Thanks for that, yeah it's not in any of the factsheets I could see, they only covered aftermarket arms. Will find out in a couple of weeks when certifier is back doing his thing. Just thought i'd test the waters in here as you may have come across similar things in the past. 

Thought it might be alright since it's not cast or anything fancy like that. Welding plan would be to weld all edges of the plate, including top side around the ball joint area. Would be solid as fuck IMO.

[kyteler 59,480]

I'm not sure if it's justified or accurate but my concern if you removed the wall/bend/lip and replaced it with thicker flat on the same plane as the top face that you would run into potential torsional rigidity issues which would transfer stresses on the edge of where you weld the reinforcement plate, I would think narrowing it down but retaining an "edge" (I guess?) would be a good option combined perhaps with an additional strengthening plate across the base of the arm, retaining the 2mm plate size throughout. 

Maybe? 

[Bling 20,744]

Whoosh, that is a bit technical for me to comprehend lol.

I'm not sure the section where the plate might be would flex all that much? The caster arm(?) bolts not far from that area so i'm guessing the main force on the end is up and down? Can't get official word for a couple of weeks, just a tad stressed. Trimming the arm is the method which affects the least other things. Could shorten the RCA, but then i'll likely end up with bump steer issues at a guess. Have looked at other steering arm options and can't see any OEM options that fit my struts. Aftermarket all look to be aimed purely are race / drift so don't seem all that appropriate. 

Just hoping that a solution can be worked out where they are happy the strength required for the arm to do it's job exists. Was talking to someone who cut and shut theirs years ago with a thread mixed in to allow adjustment. Hoping this is a more minor modification that can be solved.

[Ashkellybarr 1,030]

Proportion valve requirement on a old Ute or can I delete it?

 

cheers

[tortron 61,639]

Delete it

[Mof 13,105]

Load valve lower right in picture? 

Cut arm short, fix in position and adjust to suit. Lock it up when you're happy it's not locking up the rears

[tortron 61,639]

The old L200 ones don't do anything anyways, my clubsport doesn't have one at all

[Ashkellybarr 1,030]

I’m running a small alloy tray witch weighs nothing and at most will have a gearbox or engine on it. That the arms always been bent and never worked so I’ll just delete it if I can

[kpr 6,326]

May end up with too much rear bias  if you delete it.  just do some hard braking see if it locks the rears 

[M.H. 5,677]

Apologies for stuff link but what will the likely outcome of this be? Seems pretty harsh on the owner of the Ute

 

https://stuff.co.nz/business/118042553/better-off-dead-after-loose-bolt-causes-crash

 

[Dolan 15,942]

Pretty rough. In the heavy transport world the chain of responsibility would land heavily on that parts fitter guy. Haha F it was certed  after then it should’ve been picked up but by the look it wasn’t certed ?

[cletus 38,128]

Nah it wasn't certed. It had heavy duty leaf springs fitted 

I find it hard to figure out why the company that did the work would have that attitude, surely they would have insurance, and the bad publicity would cost more than fixing the vehicle. 

 

[Early jap nuter 347]

I had to deal with this company for work. They were not the easiest to deal with and always a bullshit problem during the job. There’s dodgy Ute places these days everywhere and some of the shit they are fitting is so sub standard I cringe when I see it drive past me. 

[187inc 454]

That sucks for the driver, not only what happened but the way the company at fault treated him also, but.. Why would he not have personal income protection? I thought that was the first thing you get when self employed to avoid having to "borrow off friends for mortgage payments"? 

[tintin 118]

There must be more to this story that they aren’t saying,  Why could the 8 staff not chop down trees and split firewood to keep the business going, just sounds a bit off to me. Just my opinion 

[tortron 61,639]

So back to this Morrie I have

In its history report it it was dereg in 2014.

It had a pre registration check in 2016.

It has a vin plate on it, I assume from that check.

 

Will I need to go through pre registration check again? Or is the vin still good?

 

There's no record of it having any further reg inspection that I can find anywhere, I couldn't find it on ltsa flagged vehicle page (tho it only had one Morris in it flagged for flood damage). Doesn't say failed inspection in the carjam report

Is there any way I can find out if it did go through an inspection and if it did fail on anything?

There's plenty of information on importing and flagging an American car, but nothing for re-registering a car already here.

[cletus 38,128]

Vin no will still be ok. Once it has a 17 digit vin assigned to the vehicle, that's it for life. 

Next step will be fix it, get repair cert, then take it back to a vinz/vtnz for re registration inspection 

 

[tortron 61,639]

Anyway to see if it's flagged for anything?

Says no on the carjam report, but does a re Rego check count the same as an import flag?

[cletus 38,128]

Not that I'm aware of. You could ask a vinz/vtnz guy to check for you 

[WhangareiKE70 502]

Hey y’all,

Happy new year and all that. 
Trying to get this ute of mine sorted for cert/Nats, doing some bar work and am slightly confused by the part of the Car Construction Manual with regard to fenders/wheel coverage 13.5.2.

Is the third of the circumference measured as a line starting from the centre of the wheel? 
Because the body is so high up over the wheel it makes it hard to get one third coverage if the line does start from the wheel centre as obviously anything lower than the chassis will not be covered except with maybe a mud flap, and does that count? 
See below for a poorly marked up version of what I am thinking of doing with the bar work (the bar will come out as far as the edge of the tyre to cover the whole tread then kick back in to join up with the slider/side step):

TIA, 

Hayden.