KP_wag Posted January 10, 2019 Posted January 10, 2019 6 minutes ago, KKtrips said: I have had this question before and the answer is yes you can have a bi-modal exhaust, but one side has to be quiet, and the other side has to be more quiet. ie: you cannot have quiet and loud modes. So effectively exactly what you and Cletus have said. Great, will look to go that way then I think, a boost referenced valve that is as loud (flowey) as legally poss when open, and quiet as possible when closed Quote
kws Posted January 10, 2019 Posted January 10, 2019 3 hours ago, KP_wag said: Great, will look to go that way then I think, a boost referenced valve that is as loud (flowey) as legally poss when open, and quiet as possible when closed How would a WOF etc test this? Not like they can run it up on a dyno, get it on boost and then volume test it. Its a good idea, im just curious myself. Or more likely, would they just require you to have it in the "open" setting during testing, and fail you if you cant/dont? Quote
KP_wag Posted January 10, 2019 Posted January 10, 2019 My guess is once it's got the cert on it, WOF guy will not be that interested (my WOF guy at least). Quote
cletus Posted January 10, 2019 Posted January 10, 2019 7 hours ago, kws said: How would a WOF etc test this? Not like they can run it up on a dyno, get it on boost and then volume test it. Its a good idea, im just curious myself. The decibel test is done with the engine not 'loaded' ie in neutral, take it up to the test rpm, start the meter reading, then let it drop back to idle Quote
Adoom Posted January 13, 2019 Posted January 13, 2019 So I've got my spacer to put the rod end at the right height. I've got my "beefy washer" at the bottom to prevent pull through. I've got a Grade 8.8 bolt and the shank goes all the way through all the bits(the extra spacer at the top allows me to tighten the nut). But that beefy washer and bolt head are now REALLY close to the wheel. I had to space the wheel out with some 3mm washers. So now I have 3mm clearance. How much clearance is enough clearance? I can space the wheels out further... Quote
cletus Posted January 13, 2019 Posted January 13, 2019 You might be able to give yourself a bit more clearance with an Allen head bolt There isn't a set minimum but I'd aim for at least 5mm . If you have to run spacers anyway it's not a big deal to space it out a bit more Quote
Driven Goose Posted January 17, 2019 Posted January 17, 2019 Question regarding steering setups for my 720/Safari mashup. I have the NZCCM, and it has this section: Essentially my question is: The pair of UJs (1 either side of the intermediate shaft) would be supported at the firewall, and the steering box. Is that what it's asking for, or some sort of inline bearing on the intermediate shaft? Probably an obvious answer but I wasn't sure. If the answer is a support on the intermediate shaft, then do I need to incorporate some degree of movement (i.e. rubber mounting) as it is a cab on frame and there will be a degree of flex? Or is that negligible and it can just be hard mounted? Thanks in advance. Quote
CorollaGT Posted January 21, 2019 Posted January 21, 2019 On a macpherson strut type suspenion - is there a minimum amount of thread that needs to extend past the end of a nut on the two bolts securing the shock to the hub(knuckle/carrier)? EDIT: 'Two threads clear' Quote
~Slideways~ Posted January 22, 2019 Posted January 22, 2019 I've read conflicting information, is it acceptable to modify/shorten/weld half shafts? EDIT: Looking into it, I don't think welding is an option but shortening and resplining could work. Quote
Ashkellybarr Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 If a vehicle come with lspv as per pic. Can I remove it when certing for other mods? i.e longer rear break line for lift and remove it all together cherers Quote
AllTorque Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 You need some sort of proportioning valve or the rears will have to much pressure and lock up. Quote
Yowzer Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 We get Hilux's and Bounty's in at work all the time with them failed, it's amazing how happily they lock the rears with even the lightest of brake pressure. Scary as fuck in the wet haha Quote
Mof Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 What about cutting the long rod off short and locking it in a position that suits? Quote
cletus Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 1 hour ago, Ashkellybarr said: If a vehicle come with lspv as per pic. Can I remove it when certing for other mods? i.e longer rear break line for lift and remove it all together cherers yep as long as the brake bias is ok, ie lock it in the right position, or fit an adjustable bias valve Quote
cletus Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 On 18/01/2019 at 09:07, WhangareiKE70 said: Question regarding steering setups for my 720/Safari mashup. I have the NZCCM, and it has this section: Essentially my question is: The pair of UJs (1 either side of the intermediate shaft) would be supported at the firewall, and the steering box. Is that what it's asking for, or some sort of inline bearing on the intermediate shaft? Probably an obvious answer but I wasn't sure. If the answer is a support on the intermediate shaft, then do I need to incorporate some degree of movement (i.e. rubber mounting) as it is a cab on frame and there will be a degree of flex? Or is that negligible and it can just be hard mounted? Thanks in advance. if you just have 2x ujoints, you wont need another support, the steering column (if its got a bush/bearing in the bottom) will support one, steering box will support the other if the body is rubber mounted you will need some sort of flex in the system to allow for body movement on the chassis- either a rubber rag joint, or ujoints and a sliding shaft Quote
cletus Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 On 22/01/2019 at 11:20, CorollaGT said: On a macpherson strut type suspenion - is there a minimum amount of thread that needs to extend past the end of a nut on the two bolts securing the shock to the hub(knuckle/carrier)? EDIT: 'Two threads clear' correct, 2 threads past the nut Quote
cletus Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 On 23/01/2019 at 09:56, ~Slideways~ said: I've read conflicting information, is it acceptable to modify/shorten/weld half shafts? EDIT: Looking into it, I don't think welding is an option but shortening and resplining could work. what application? Quote
~Slideways~ Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 59 minutes ago, cletus said: what application? A few options for a motorbike engined car 1. Either an MX5 rear subframe narrowed (but keeping stock suspension components/dimensions) and using mx5 diff converted to sprocket drive (mid engine chain drive) and shortened half shafts (hoping to just cut and respline if possible) 2. The same subframe using an IRS holden diff (normal prop shaft to front) and modified half shafts to mx5 rear brakes (maybe respline would work, maybe weld...dont like idea of welding) . 3. Civic diff and brakes converted to sprocket using in fwd format but need to shorten shafts. If that makes sense? Quote
The Bronze Posted February 3, 2019 Posted February 3, 2019 Noob question on CoFs: Working on a friends camper, and we've gutted it. Can we CoF it with no interior, and then do the camper related stuff later? Figure it's better/easier doing that while empty and repairable. From what I picked up on the Civil-ian thread that's the way to go. Quote
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