davidian Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Yeah it's BS, i've had a few sets of Playz turn up on Imported wheels, never had any problems getting WOF with them. got some cheap playz 17s, place that put them on stuck a wof on too dont take for gospel tho, those guys are idiots and asking for 205/40s i got 215/45 that rub like a bitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 Thinking of building a RatRod. I have the choice to start with an old 30's or 40's rolling chassis or cheating with a modern L200 chassis just wondering what the implication are for registering and certifying as if I use a modern chassis I would have to register it as a 2010 Chev pickup or whatever. So would have to be more involved I'd imagine, indicators etc. Can anyone be specific about this? Cheers, RT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 unless you build something using the original chassis and body combination it will be a 2010 car and have to comply with the rules for building a new car eg if you build a 40 ford pickup on a 40 ford chassis and you have rego history or its still registered, then its a 40 ford. if you put a 40 cab on a 85 l200 chassis then its a 2010 lvvta rustmaster or whatever you want to call it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nothingsfree Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Im sure its been mentioned, but I couldnt find it/Im useless. Just wondering how old a car has to be to qualify for classic status, rego etc? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 40 years bup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Mainstream Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 whats the rules/years of for rear seat belts? Also whats the low down with rear-stop lights? i know if car is reg'd first in nz before a certain year you don't have to have but cant remember. chur stz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Try this http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/virm- ... ml#general Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akaname Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 What do the letters "OE" stand for on the Low Volume Vehicle plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 original equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akaname Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Ah sweet.. Thanks bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2escort Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 Out of curiosity if you get a car certed and the cert plate says you have 14x6 mags then you change to 13x7 for example whats the deal do you need a recert or get a new cert plate or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 when you get a cert done, does the inspection only cover the things that you are getting certed? or is it a full inspection? eg say my car has new engine, will they just inspect the engine/drivetrain related components? or if a car is just being certed for height, they just check the suspension is all legit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 everytime ive got a cert theyve done everything, went in for adjusties and the wheels were done as well, and if its got non oe stuff on it its best to get it certed for everything, keeps the law and insurance companies happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikewazowski Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 I got told that if your car hasn't been for a WOF for a certain amount of time (can't remember how long) then they will do a WOF style check over the entire car while doing your cert. I'm not sure if this is a yarn or not but I wasn't really worried as you have to go for a WOF eventually anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 ^ I was speaking to Niel Fraser from Fraser Cars about doing a cert and he said he prefers that people take their cars for a wof check to begin with and to outline the areas that require certification. It makes it a more simple and fast process this way, only certifying suspension, and seats for example because those are the areas the wof inspector picked up on. Out of curiosity if you get a car certed and the cert plate says you have 14x6 mags then you change to 13x7 for example whats the deal do you need a recert or get a new cert plate or what? My understanding is that a change in wheel width or diameter does require an alteration to the cert plate. This is because it can lead to the car being lower to the ground, which will void the current certification parameters. I'm unsure of whether you can get the changes "added on" to your existing cert of if you need to get a new cert to cover the changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 I believe a pre cert WOF is pointless for 2 reasons - 1: It often takes longer than the 28 days to certify and recieve a plate so you will need to pay a new inspection fee 2: If you are going to certify - it makes sense to certify every modification not just the ones that a WOF inspector picks up. As much as it goes againsts the principles of WOF Inspections - every WOF inspector is different and fails on different things.. Also it future proofs your modifications against legislature change example Say you have a 2L in a 1300 Escort with the correct 2L brakes, diff, gearbox etc. You also have a Racetech seat on the drivers side and it has coilovers fitted. The WOF inspector may fail on seat and coilovers so you take it in and get it certed for them. Reinspection passes tick - on your way you go. 2 years later your favourite inspector packs it in and becomes parts manager at the local dealership. New Inspector says "NO - this is originally a 1300 Escort now with a pinto in it.. get it recertified please - KTHXBAI" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikewazowski Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 ^ Agreed. Also, as I've just found out recently, certs are a piece of piss if you aren't an absolute rough bastard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Hmm, yes I seem to have worded it wrong. The idea isn't that the wof inspector will miss things that need to be certified, you would still outline what you want to have certed. It is more to show the certifier that the vehicle is up to a safe and road worthly standard in the other areas, ie seatbelts, wheel bearings etc, so that he doesn't need to run through the whole wof check sheet and can still know that the car will (should) be in a safe state when it leaves their shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 ahhhh yes that makes much more sense - but sounds like a case of the certifier just being lazy.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 nah thats what I've heard from all the people I know who have got certs - had to have a failed wof sheet first. just part of the cost of getting a cert having to get 2 wofs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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