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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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ive never seen that written on them before, and ive had a few sets.

 

i would wager that they are exactly the same as a regular casting, and that wording is some sort of arse covering exercise by the manufacturer.

 

 

like KK said, your option is to find a greybeard that worked at cheviot or knows why the wording was added and see if you have any joy there.

 

the other possibility is to get them approved by the TAC, maybe if you could prove they are the same as one that doesnt have the writing on it, ie same casting thickness and material, they could be approved for use on the road. if you want to pursue that you need to email     justin@lvvta.org.nz   hes the guy that organises the TAC meetings.

 

or just get some wheels that dont have the writing on them.

 

 

slotted wheels can be used, if they comply with 2.3 (2) in here

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf

 

 

good luck, tridens are the ultimate in wheels, im not sure why anyone bothered making any other style of wheel after perfection was achieved, haha

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Hey Clint,

 

Digging this up again as i am now at this stage of my project. Only 10 months later.. hah.

 

Is there a certain grade alloy that these should be made out of?

The LVVTA documentation on wheel spacers (as close as i could find to a brake rotor spacer) says:

 

 © Be manufactured from a solid block of suitable material

 

Would 5086 Alloy be a "suitable material" ?

 

Thankses.

 

sounds fine if you are following the rules for wheel spacers. nzed would know better than me about the material spec so that will be ok

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Hi Clint.

 

I have some wheels to go onto my Soarer. The Soarer is 5x114.3 and the wheels are 5x120. 

 

I have enquired to Znoelli about making some custom adaptors at 15mm thick.

 

They replied saying with the spacer being that thin that the wheel studs from the hub will be protruding from the spacers, and will hit the wheel. They recommended machining a pocket in the wheel which the stud will stick into. 

The wheels i have dont have a spot where it would be good to machine into as shown in the picture.

10736134_999601296732384_721009546_n_zps

 

My question is, am i able to cut the studs from the hub down so they clear the wheels? Or is that a big no no?

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15mm adaptors are always a bit of a drama. either the nut is too shallow, so it doesnt comply with the minimum thread engagement rule of 'same as thread diameter', or there isnt enough material left under the nut taper and they warp/are not strong enough. 20mm ones always seems to work out easier.

 

you can trim the stud if it sticks out past the face of the adaptor. you wouldnt be able to machine the rim.

 

i hate adaptors. theres so many china ones around with shitty nuts that the taper doesnt match, or the taper is machined not parallel with the thread.....

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good luck, tridens are the ultimate in wheels, im not sure why anyone bothered making any other style of wheel after perfection was achieved, haha

 

Quoted for TRUTH!

 

EDIT,

Even Cheviot agree'd they couldn't do any better;

 

 

So I contacted Cheviot industries and this got this reply...

 

"Thanks you for your email, but the Alloy Wheel business closed in the 90s.  Although we use the name and logo for our Plastic Accessories we manufacture, Alloy wheels are not

 

 

 

 

 

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"ive never seen that written on them before, and ive had a few sets."

 

same here

 

"or just get some wheels that dont have the writing on them."

 

yep thats what I'm gonna do

 

"good luck, tridens are the ultimate in wheels, im not sure why anyone bothered making any other style of wheel after perfection was achieved, haha"

 

"Quoted for TRUTH!"

 

always good to meet other people with excellent taste .

 

Thanks for everyones input. The answer wasn't what I wanted but it was what I expected.

 

 

 

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Always.

Gotta make sure everything behind them is all G, check for wheel spacers, brake mounting etc etc.

Often have to remove seats, trim, carpet etc to check for proper driveshaft loop installation, there's usually a lot of disassembly involved with certs.

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We quite often discover things wrong with wheel mountings, studs too long / too short, slip on wheel spacers, things that the owners never disclose when they bring their cars in. Sometimes it's just a simple oversight. Sometimes they play ignorant.

Ya can't take peoples word on anything so everything gets very thoroughly checked.

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I don't think they took anything off the samurai, but I could be wrong. (He's out of business now, only one certer in chch now)

I don't know how the van got cert in that case, it was dodgy as hell.

(Cut up cross member, slip on spacers and 1.5 turns on front wheel nuts at most, loose steering column, rotors too small for calipers, no d/s hoop)

Sorry spamming

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I might go 20mm then to save the hassle.

 

I would assume a company like Znoelli would make decent ones? Wont be getting cheap ones, i like the wheels staying on the cars. 

you should just sell me those wheels. hah.

 

 

sounds fine if you are following the rules for wheel spacers. nzed would know better than me about the material spec so that will be ok

 

Thanks Clint!

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ive never seen that written on them before, and ive had a few sets.

 

i would wager that they are exactly the same as a regular casting, and that wording is some sort of arse covering exercise by the manufacturer.

An Aussie dude was asking about them, and posted a photo here

http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/showthread.php/2740-Unknown-mags/page2

 

Probably an arse covering exercise.  I've seen similar wording on some Minilite and Panasport wheels, usually lightweight ones intended for circuit racing.  Although postings on some forums imply it may have been to avoid expensive certification...

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  Although postings on some forums imply it may have been to avoid expensive certification...

 

 

I would think this is probably the reason, to avoid some sort of certification type process to get an approval marking, like japanese wheels have JWL on them, or american ones have DOT, etc...

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I have a car that has had the battery relocated to the boot.

 

One of the fail points on my cert sheet is that the battery cable needs to be secured avery 300mm.

 

What kind of clips work best for this and where to buy? I assume others have had to do this.

 

Cheers.

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