goodie

Yep, 265 and 73 VJ Charger.

After rebuilding the front end all shims went back where they came from but heres how I set toe in.I still got it reset at a wheel alignment place but this is good enough while I'm test running it. Also a shot of my next project. The make should be obvious but who can get the model?

I also decided to go with electric fans .These are actually from a Falcon and the advice from my radiator shop guy was to fit the sender switch in the bottom tank,which I did.

The rest of the pics.

About time I updated this.I got the car road legal in January and since then since then been busy on another project.Anyway another of the modifications I did was to the clutch mechanism. I wanted to convert to cable clutch to suit the bellhousing .I spent the best part of three days getting the distances right so I had good travel and was light to use.Of course most of the time spent is bolting it in and removing it everytime you change something.The end result works perfectly though unfortunately I didnt take pictures of the assembly while it was out of the car (or measurements ) but here are some pics of it in the car.

Here's how I cut the splines, I made a holding device to hold a small cutoff disc which meant the hardness issue wasn't a problem as I just replaced the cutoff disc as required.Obviously keeping the shaft true to the travel of the bed was critical. Also I set the disc at the right height for one side of the spline first and made a cut along each spline before changing the height of the disc to cut the other side of the spline.After that about 10 minutes with a Dremmel grinder to dress it up ( I just kept sliding the clutch plate along the shaft until I was happy enough with it) and it was done.

All of the information I could find on the internet said to use the Falcon T5 because the shifter comes up through the hole in the floor so that's what I bought The first photo shows the Ford T5 and the input shaft is waaaay too short to fit using my bellhousing(Aussie 4 speed to trimatic block). And you can't just get a longer input shaft because the all have a different tooth count on the end of the input shaft. Commodore v6 has the longest input shat and look where the shifter comes through the floor. The shaft had to be shortened by about 20mm from memory so I cut it , turned down the end for the spigot bearing but extending the splines was beyond me.Took it to town and one of the biggest outfits in Blenheim said "shit no we haven't got the gear to do that, we've never done anything like that". Other outfits were better but still said it was going to be bloody expensive ,one outfit quoted $100 to send it away and get the hardness taken out ,$300 to extend the splines and $100 to send away and get it re-hardened. So I went home , thought about it for a while and made a tool and did the job myself.

Here's how I made the adapter .I used a commodore v6 bellhousing because they were the cheapest,I think I payed 50 bucks for it. I cut the back of it off, then milled it down parallel with the mounting face.I had to mill a small step at the bottom of the bellhousing and a matching step on the plate.To make sure it was true I turned up the collar which I made a tap fit with a rubber mallet.Then I set up the bellhousing on the mill and would centre it over one tapped hole ,fit the plate,drill and countersink it (the plate is attached with countersunk allen bolts). Remove plate, centre over the next hole and repeat.Then drilling the T5 holes all the way through the bellhousing and tapping them.

If I understand this properly I need a thread here.Right? Build Thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45728-goodies-ht-monaro/

front end kit, and some showing the crossmember and handbrake modifications.

No just a casting mark durty

My thoughts exactly K Trips, and I completely see things from the certifiers point and he's been a good bugger over the whole process.

OK solved. pics show it when I got it in the early 90's when they were still affordable,third photo shows motor with the adapter plate I made for the T5 gearbox. I used a V6 bellhousing and cut the back section off, To align it properly I turned up a collar that was a gentle tap fit onto the centre holes on the bellhousing and the plate. last photo ,wasn't supposed to be here but its a 38 Ford I built sometime in the 80's

Lets see if I've got this right. Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45730-goodies-ht-monaro/

Yeah I want it certed for mags whether its for these or something else . Is it ok to run wheels where the holes are slotted?

Build thread ? yeah I will do even though its finished I've got quite a few photos of the build and there were a few challenges.Its got a 308 bored and stroked to 355 ,T5 trans to a 9 inch. As to grinding it off, didn't know it was there till the cert guy picked up on it.

Hi, I am currently in the process of certifying a Holden Monaro that I have been restoring for the last 20 years.One of the issues that I have to resolve is whether the alloy wheels are suitable for the road. On the outside face of the wheels is written "CHEVIOT 8JJ x 14 " and the inside of the wheel has "EXPORT /OR OFFROAD USE ONLY". The style of wheel is the Triden style.The wheels were on the car when I bought it and had been in use on the road at the time. The guy doing the cert is doing his best to help me and I got this letter from him- "Checked with LWTA head office about rear wheel rims.They suggest contact Cheviot Industries about them and if we can have a letter from them to say that they are ok for use on roads in NZ and it describes the actual rim we will be able to pass them.If not,sorry, we cannot help you any more." So I contacted Cheviot industries and this got this reply... "Thanks you for your email, but the Alloy Wheel business closed in the 90s. Although we use the name and logo for our Plastic Accessories we manufacture, Alloy wheels are not our area of expertise." So just wondering if anyone else has had this issue and how they got around it. Btw Clint you're a bloody legend.