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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/01/20 in all areas

  1. 22 points
    well, that was fucking stressful. first time ever laying a candy/3 coat colour and it so very nearly went very very wrong. i completely fluked it and managed to get it looking right but i was seconds away from disaster on more than one occasion. im fucking turbo stoked with how it looks, its got some dust in it but i couldn't give a fuck, theres way more right than there is wrong and thats a fucking win. 2020-01-09_06-20-37 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-10_07-39-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-10_07-39-48 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-10_07-39-58 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-10_07-40-05 by sheepers, on Flickr
  2. 9 points
    I removed the steering box and original mounting plate. Mk3 Transit mounting plate now fitted and new steering box bolted in, much neater!
  3. 6 points
    A guy on facebook was giving away some motors and parts, after finishing his project. Drove over to Greymouth to collect them. Now got 4 parts motors, so should hopefully have enough good bits when it comes to building a motor for it. Finished stripping the engine bay, removed suspension and cross member. I have made a start removing the underseal from the guards, only been finding some light surface rust so far. Will continue removing the undereseal and make a start bare metalling the engine bay next.
  4. 6 points
  5. 5 points
    There’s no turning back now
  6. 4 points
    First sides all stitched up and came out pretty good..no warping. just need to flap disc it to see if there’s any little holes I’ve missed.
  7. 4 points
    Still own it, still clean it. Took a photo with another cool Honda. 1996 Honda Accord Super Tourer HART001 (3)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Also did some more work/doing some more work so will update soon times.
  8. 4 points
  9. 3 points
    Clutch sorted Note the holes drilled in it, this is to lighten the arms and in turn raise the stall/engagement rpm. This makes a world of difference in acceleration and driveability. And before and after of spark plug boot.
  10. 3 points
    She runs alright. Any load on the engine and it bogs down. I assume it’s to do with the jetting and the fact there’s no air box on it at the moment. The clutch seems like it doesn’t want to operate properly like there’s no adjustment in it, at a guess I’d say the plates are all worn and the springs are shot.
  11. 3 points
    sand, fill then prime again. i have the colour mixed for the top coat so ill be attempting to paint it red probably saturday. 2020-01-09_12-19-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-09_06-20-37 by sheepers, on Flickr
  12. 3 points
    Me and my daughter rolled up the door panels today
  13. 2 points
    I normally register for the show on Friday night. That way I have the best knowledge of the weather for the day of the show. @Bling depending on your plans your welcome to drive my little ute in the parade/cruise on Friday night?
  14. 2 points
    The guy I sold my cub to text me saying it goes hard and he’s stoked with it. Good for him I guess I’m sad I sold it haha. Anyway, I FINALLY rebuilt the shocks on the 125. Used original for lowers and tf125 inners. Note my fork seal driver. Seemed to work. It’s good being able to wheel it around again! Measured the inside of the hub aswell, limit is 130.9 or something and it’s on about 128... hopefully that’s enough of I decide to re-register. I will do bearings, brake shoes and cables at some point.
  15. 2 points
    Geeze its been a Long time, still own this thing Was rocking a built b16a with boost for a few year,s but sold that engine now has a stock b16a again Fitted a rebuilt S80 Type R Box from a 96 Integra with a 4.4 FD - LSD is like the best Mod ever for a FWD car The Buddy Club coilovers were in the car for at least 5 years before I brought it and are getting very tired so the below were recently acquired: KW V3 - can't wait to get them fitted Then its time for some more track days and hillclimbs - Turbo motor was fun but no good for these type of activities
  16. 2 points
    Some more progress at the panelbeaters too
  17. 2 points
    Got a new CD player unit last night on a Japanese auction for around $100 nzd, they will ship it to my wife’s folks house in Osaka as they wouldn’t ship to nz
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    @1vaknd We have used the flat fibreglass heat gasket (that I got from bbqs and more) around most of the lid edges, we can't do the all the edges as it creates gaps in other areas. It actually seals quite well. Also forgot to mention we got a whole lamb boned and rolled. Bit of salt and pepper, rosemary, thyme and garlic. Cooked in the smoker at around 240°F for about 6 hours then rested for about an hour. Fuelled with kingsford briquettes and gum wood, with Manuka for smoke. The Smokeyness on the outside was nice but a bit overpowering but the inside was cooked mint! Moist as and tasty. I swapped over the weber temp gauge for the left gauge on the pitlord. The original gauge was showing about 10-15°F lower than the right, however with the weber gauge it was showing about 20°F above the right. Will look at investing in a proper internal probe, temp gauge.
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    I like the prices and ease of use Amayama provides, but bloody hell the shipping takes forever! My oil pump gasket finally arrived today though (ordered a month and a half ago), which let me assemble the rest of the short block finally The part number on this gasket has been superceded a couple of times over the life span of the 4G63 SOHC, but this is apparently the replacement for all earlier versions, and is the gasket for a 6 bolt DOHC motor. Everything seems to line up, so I'm sure its fine. Once that was torqued up I could install the oil pick and get the bottom end buttoned up. Sump has had a few hits in the front of it, but still serviceable. I gave it a quick blast and paint a couple of months back. I find CRC Black Zinc works really well for stuff like this, but you need to give it at least a month to properly harden up before handling. Had a bit of time up my sleeve, so did a bit of a dry-fit of the rest of the pieces to see what I need to finish off. Routing for the crank sensor wiring will work out okay. I'll make a couple of brackets and cabletie it in a couple of places to keep it out of harms way. It can exit up by the head, as there is an opening there as clearance for the distributor. Speaking of distributors, I've got one on the way to me to cut up and hopefully turn into a cam trigger. I've looked at mounting something behind the cam wheel, but there are no easy mounting points there. I could weld a boss to the head, but if I can make it work tidily with a chopped up dizzy, it's an easier solution. Finally offering up the turbo to the head was a pretty good moment, I like the way it looks, because I like 80's excess :-). Its an EVOIII big 16G, but with a larger compressor cover. Looks like a much 'bigger' turbo than it is ;-). Next up I think I'll tackle the mods to the inlet manifold. Need to make up a flange for the throttlebody and weld it on the front. Trim off all the crap at the rear and weld that closed. I'll also cut off the original thermostat area, and make a piece to weld on to give fitting locations for the heater and bypass hoses. I want to move the thermostat housing to the front of the head though to keep the flow through the head the same as originally intended. Will give the manifold a quick scan too, as I want to pick up on some bolt hole locations to make a sheetmetal mount for a set of LS2 coils. They're just cheap aliexpress knockoff ones, but I've heard good reviews... Will see how they go :-). Happy holidays all!
  23. 2 points
    Been making some slow progress on this. Go the guards and front valance off and engine bay nearly stripped now. Just got to take the steering box and column out now. No nasty surprises so far which is nice. In more exciting news, I've got my hands on some triple carbs for it. Not sure what the condition of the SU's is like, but externally they look all good.
  24. 2 points
    Both tubs are in now and working on quarter panel piece
  25. 1 point
    This ute has been a constant fixture in my life for many years now, and its pretty easily my favorite vehicle I've ever owned. It's never let me down, when something does break its so simple you can fix it on the side of the road, and it just gives you 'feel good' vibes when you drive it :-). I bought it from the original owners year ago, and it had never been more than 20k's from Sheffield (where it was sold new) in its life. It's in good nick for one of these, with no major rust issues to speak of. The cab corners are all good, and the wellside is also rust free and pretty much dent free inside too. The canopy has never been off it, and the tray has always had a ply-wood spoil board in place. The interior shows its age though, with dash cracks and worn out bench seat. I've done a bit of work to it over the years. Did a major overhaul of all the suspension and brakes a couple of years ago. Everything under there is brand new or rebuilt. 2" blocks in the back, 2" drop spindles in the front with 2nd gen vented brakes. 1/2 a coil off the front to get it sitting even. Everything poly-bushed, wheels are $50 cheapies from trademe I tidied up. They're probably due another tidy up by now, but I think i'll be changing them out for something else (wider) in the near future. For the first years of owning the truck it was just a weekend vehicle, used for taking the garden waste to the refuse station, helping people move things around, etc. I had euro-diesels as I was commuting big k's each week for work... However at the beginning of 2019 I scored a fantastic job in Christchurch, so I no longer have to spend 12.5 hours a week commuting to and from work. When you add that into your work hours each week, its just too much time being idled away. As of a few months ago the euro-diesels are sold and the truck is performing daily duties. I love dailying it, but the thing is just awful on gas. The old 4g52 is pretty much knackered (I suspect 300,000k's +), and the carb is just so worn out that I can't tune it for any better mileage than around 18l/100k's, pretty awful. It's being bore-washed into oblivion, and is most definitely down on power. So, its time for the second round of major modifications: 4g63 SOHC 8V. TD05 Big 16G turbo (EVO III). Galant MPI injection. 2nd Gen 5 Speed gearbox (possibly with a Starion gearset, if the ratio's are better). 3.54:1 gears, with and LSD center. Starion seats fitted general interior update. I'm hoping for a good 200 buff horses to the rear wheels. Truck weighs in at around 1250kg's, mostly at the front I assume, so it should make it pretty lively with an LSD and 195's. Should be able to get better economy too, with the 5 speed (currently its a 4 speed) and the taller gears, and better fuel system. Not for the first few months I'm sure, as I'll be deep in the loud pedal a lot I'd say, but after that I'm hoping things improve ;-).
  26. 1 point
    A mate lent me his mig welder to have a play with. thought I might have a crack at welding up the rear fenders myself as the process is just a lot of spot welding so you don’t warp them.
  27. 1 point
    Got home and found an aliexpress package...best day ever! My woodruff keys arrived, so no fucking around...lets get some shit finished! Okay, not so awesome. Problems... The flywheel I'm using is supposed to convert it to easy pull start by shifting the leverage outward, thus increasing torque on the pull start. This certainly works...but there's not enough clearance to simply bolt on the pull start. This is how much clearance I need, so I'll space it with washers "for now, cough cough". And make a proper aluminum spacer plate for it later. #shitthatwillneverhappen #washersforlifemofos Makes me wonder how normal customers get on with this type of purchase. Not everyone buying cheap parts of ebay or Amazon etc have access to a lathe or milling machine to then make said cheap parts actually fit. Then a bit of clutch bell restoration. I've put it all back together and it's now ready to start.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    the headlight wiring on ms65's broke me. negative triggered relay with no fuse. atleast on my aussie assembled one that i used to own
  31. 1 point
    Project discussion: I bought this site unseen from Hamilton a few months ago. It's @brocky41 old car credit to him getting it going. Turns out it's actually a good thing... Spend the last little while fixing little stuff.. Tuning it up and charging around the country side. Really nice jap cruiser.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Made a list and spent today working on the Mk1. It has always been a bit of a scary thing to drive. When the previous owner fitted the power steering, he used a Ford Fairmont steering box. The input shaft rotates the wrong way for a Transit, so he fitted an inline gearbox on the shaft to reverse the direction. The gearbox has some freeplay, and coupled with the freeplay on the steering box, it made for an interesting drive! It also has a Falcon steering column, complete with column shifter.The plan is to ft a Mk3 Transit power steering box, Mk5 column and switches, and Lokar floor shifter. I have all of these parts already. Also replacing the 3.9 gears (very noisy!) with a 3.5 ratio in the nine inch rear axle, so have removed the diff head in preparation for this. Todays task was removing the offending items!
  34. 1 point
    A couple more hours on the intake manifold side of this today, decided to tackle the cam trigger. I got hold of an old distributor from a carby one of these motors. It was missing pretty much everything, just a bare housing, shaft and advance weights still there. I attacked the shaft and housing with a hacksaw to get it down to just the bits I might need. I'm making this up as I go along, so I hope it works out ;-). What I'm trying to accomplish here is to mount a threaded hall sensor in such a way that it picks up a trigger signal once for every camshaft revolution. Ideally I'l love to mount something behind the cam wheel at the front, but there are no mounting points there, and although I could drill through into the head to make some, I'd enter a water gallery for sure and I don't like my chances of sealing that up afterwards. I thought about maybe picking up off the back of the cam via a custom mount that takes the place of the half moon seal, but there isn't a lot of room to work back there either. I also didn't like this idea in the end as the trigger disc would have to have a pretty small diameter, and as the trigger wheel you're reading gets smaller (so triggers are closer to the centerline of whatever is rotating) a small error in the point the trigger is detected can actually be a pretty large number of engine degrees. The dizzy rotates in line with the cam, so if I can make something tidy here, its about the best compromise I can think of. Looking at the cut apart dizzy, I liked the look of those four pads radially spaced around the housing, I figured I could clean it all up, drill and tap those for M4, and make a cap that attaches on and holds a threaded hall effect sensor. The shaft itself can then be tidied up, drilled and tapped for M6 to give a good mounting point for some sort of trigger wheel (with just one tooth :-). Some time on the lathe and drillpress later, as well as a quick 3dprint to prototype a cap (will either print the final one out of some material that can handle the jandle, or machine out out of aluminium), and I think it's going to work. Not as tidy a solution as I'd really like, and you need to be aware that if you ever remove and refit it, you'll need to reset the base timing most likely, but I think it'll work :-). The trigger disc can just be made out of a bent piece of steel, will make something tidy for it. There is a bit (I'd like more!) space to squeeze a coolant neck out next to it aswell.
  35. 1 point
    Last update for 2019 I got annoyed at my brain going around in circles about intercooling, between water to air, air to air, or doing water meth injection. Spent waaay too much time reading stuff on the internet I'd actually bought most of the stuff to do W2A but it adds a lot of weight and more stuff to do A2A means I lose the bonnet catch so I'll have to put up with 1x dick punch from @RUNAMUCK due to bonnet pins Water/meth is the easiest route but so much conflicting information on whether it works well or not plus the unit I was looking at was $800 So to stop going around in circles any more I stopped thinking about it and attacked the front with a cut off wheel and a hole saw Got some piping mocked up and the warm side, which was the side that looked like it was going to be difficult, is pretty easy using piping I cut up that was on the vg
  36. 1 point
    So... something like 12 years ago I bought my vice 2nd hand. I was missing one of the jaws. Buying or making a replacement jaw should be straight forward.... right? I never found anything off the shelf that was the right size. Probably because the vice is polish. Since then I made do with only the one jaw... After a few years, the one jaw broke... But I continued to make do. Finally, yesterday I decided that the tools and materials I have, had reached critical mass and making replacement jaws was achievable. The old broken jaw... The 50X50 aluminium bar I chiselled it out of. It took a REALLY LONG time to saw this. My bandsaw doesn't really go fast enough for aluminium and the only blade I have is like 18tpi and kinda blunt. The mess I made. This is the first actual thing I have milled since I got it. I had only really used it for drilling. I used the 50mm face mill for the big flat bits and 12mm 4 flute for the ends and some of the surfaces. I destroyed one 12mm end mill when I discovered that it doesn't handle climb milling with the quill extended quite far. Chipped all the points off the end. Oops. I didn't have an end mill large enough to countersink the socket screws, so had to use a 14mm drill. And the finished jaws. The originals were 12mm thick. These are about 20mm. I guess if they get all gouged up I have enough meat there to mill them flat again. It took surprisingly long to make these. About 4 hours.
  37. 1 point
    Merry xmas people. Got the old man to come down with his truck and bring the pit up to theirs as we were heading up for Christmas, and present it to my brother there. Threw on a bit more paint as it got a little scratched up in transit and gave it a clean out on the inside. My brother was pretty Fucking stoked and all my family were pretty impressed with it so was pretty happy with that. I gave him a hand throughout the day and we got it roaring to burn it out. We created a fire in both the firebox and the cooking chamber as well. Got the firebox up to about 650 Fahrenheit for a bit and the cooking chamber up to about 400 for about 3 hours. Cleaned it out again then sprayed canola oil throughout and got it going via the firebox for another 3hours to season it with a drip tray and primarily Manuka to season it. It seals up pretty well once the exhaust starts extracting but it takes a little while to get it going. We also struggled to get the cooking chamber above 200 Fahrenheit when we seasoned it so we need to learn how to get it going hotter. Will try different brickettes and heat beads as we primarily just used wood when we seasoned it. Pretty stoked nonetheless. Will get some meat on it tomorrow hopefully and see what we can come up with. Cheers
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Ah Michael, your humor knows no bounds. I was going to paint it in the many hues of your inability to finish anything, but of course, I'm only painting a car, not an aircraft carrier.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Yeah that's Doug, as in the kids 'dug' him up in our back yard (one cried one laughed). He looks after my safety gear. Must hide him in work site excavations to see what happens...
  42. 1 point
    As this is my daily, I'm structuring the modifications to have as little off-road time as possible. This usually means buying the parts I need, doing the modifications, swapping them in, then then on-selling the factory gear. A good example of this is the rear axle. As this is a 'Sport' model with the 2l motor, it has the larger 8" crownwheel diff (often called the mitsy 'big' diff). This is great, as they're really strong, far stronger than I require, but it is also pretty easy to get other gear sets for them. Starions (another long-running vice of mine) also came with the big diff (5 stud models, anyway), and although they're IRS, the gear sets are interchangable (the centers also fit, but most IRS big diff stuff is 25 spline, whereas the solid axle stuff is 28 spline, late widebody starions being the exception to this and also having 28 spline axles). I picked up an '85 l200 diff on trademe a while back, and took it all apart. I found a LOM83 LSD center from a 2nd gen l200 diff, and got some 3.54:1 gears from a late widebody Starion from the states. This all goes together pretty easily, I had 'The Diff Shop' here in ChCh do the final fit for me, as they have the shims and gear to get it all in spec far easier than doing it myself. No crush tubes in these things. It's got all new bearings and seals, so it should be a good unit. I had the axle casing stripped and zinc plated, as it has been sitting up on end in my garden for a year of so and was full of water, and rust. Just at the point of putting the brakes together. I've got all new gear (springs, cylinder, shoes, drums, etc) for it, so it should last a while. Because I've still got the other diff under the rear of my truck I've got a reference of how it goes together too. Bloody drum setups! The original 3.9:1 gears will find their way into a Starion diff I have, but that's a future project.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    So, without going into too much detail about all the boring shit I have done, it's starting to look quite good. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-195-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-308-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-350-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-434-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-294-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-129-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-151-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-56-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-37-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    I'll probably copy this sort of brace for the upper mount
  47. 1 point
    Not favourable. When I was leaving I almost drove through the sandwiches and tea area, many many disapproving looks were metered out. Edit. Barry on the left in the sharn pic liked the star. He said it made it stand out and was amazed what an effective muffler it was.
  48. 1 point
    Stil haven't got much major progress on this, ticking away on the little things. I've been slowly working on cleaning and polishing the trims by hand with some autosol, most of them are coming up nicely. The original dash had been hacked up to take a head unit. The car came with a replacement, but it had some rust. Cleaned that up, painted with some Brunox and got a colour match can and some matte clear. Also made a new tray, will cover with some vinyl. Came with a set of extractors that had a couple of rust holes. Welded up the holes, cleaned off the surface rust and painted with some hi-temp paint. Doubt it will last long, but will hopefully keep the surface rust at bay until I get the car up and running.
  49. 1 point
    Just been doing little things on this. So far I've rebuild the starter motor, windscreen wiper motor and a carb with the best bits from several. Found a wee bit of rust on the guard, fixed that. Fixed the transmission tunnel, someone had cut it out for a floor shifter with what seemed to be an axe
  50. 1 point
    Nice find! Do love me a Z car.
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