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So I made the 24-1 distributor trigger, it works fine. I just cut all 29 teeth off the wheel using my barry lathe and then used a mill at uni to drill 23 holes and welded in 2.4 mm diameter tig rod as teeth. Instead of welding it onto the shaft I made the shaft slightly larger with some weld, turned it down so that it was a little bigger than the wheel and then blasted the wheel with heat and placed it over the shaft. Perfect interference shrink fit. I was having issues with the car cranking slow some times, not cranking at all other times, cranking moderately fast some times and starter motor smoking, and ignition interference while cranking. I pulled out the new starter motor and put in my original starter that I rebuilt the solenoid on and it cranks twice as fast, with no interference and uses half the power and doesn't smoke. Car starts nicely now - just need to play with the cranking advance and cranking fuel values to get them right again. Hopefully they will take the new starter back. It was interfering with my ignition from day one, and was what made me make the ecu controlled ignition system.

Mazda 1300 coupe - two door coupe roof Mazda 1300 sedan - 4 door Mazda 1300 saloon - 2 door same body shape as 4 door. Well that is how it was explained to me moons ago. The interwebs says a sedan/saloon is the same same Tomato / Tomato. I can't remember which body style it was but it was not correct, I just used sedan / saloon as an example because it rang a bell.

It would seem that he is screwed. Engine no? Without some firm proof as to the original identity, he will never be able to prove its not stolen. Buyer beware, due diligence, caveat emptor etc.

Can Of Worms No vehicle ID on it, not much good to anyone

Hell yeah. as much as i was not happy about the smashed window im so happy. the clean window is so good. such a better look with out the tint strip on it. very un happy but happy with the result. so brilliant. kass wanted to stay late and work on the buss and get it going as he has been working on his BSA during work hours, not that fazed but give some get some right. so we chucked the new second hand breaks on the front. new hoses and then moved to the rear. the first job was to fix the oil leak. we are running an adapter to suit the kombi engine mount off the oil pump and casing. we stripped the thread on the bottom to bolts and i said to kass fuck we should do that, his response was like nah it cant be that bad dw about it, lols. kinda a pain in the ass. had to take the exhaust off and a bunch of other things. so yeah broke the other exhaust getting it off and well hey lets just fit this one instead. while we done that i also got into the rear breaks. Fuck me thats right, hub nuts........ 1.7 meter bar with a 46mm socket welded to the end piss easy mayte. oh hello we have a few missing peaces here. lucky i brought stuff from the vdub shoppe and it'll go straight in right. oh nice the pistons and shoes i brought are the wrong ones, so off we go back to the vdub shop and get the correct ones. its also missing a few peaces so ill scavenging through the scraps and wrecks to find the missing stuff. thats enough for today. hopefully we can get it sorted and drive it next week.

Yeah, but only 7 people in nz are going to know that.

What's the difference apart from one is American speak and the other is English?

sorry no photos, Right so not been around for a while. but not been doing nothing. been thinking about the v6 and trying to avoid an ecu, bit different and run a carb. However how to run the ignition was my first challenge... Mitsubishi never made a carburated v6, what they did make however was a carburated 4 cylinder van... that shares a bolt paturn. the L300 2000 up year model to be exact... this got gutted and then was the hunt for a v6 cap that would not foul the fire wall... mazda had the solution and it was a mitsubishi part too so maybe it would share a roter shape?... nope slightly smaller rotor fitting nothing a file could not fix though. so now i have a huge cap, a rotor that firs the cap and now the shaft all i needed was a adapter and a reluctor... in comes the 3d printer. the base adapter took 5 attempts to get right for both hole placement and to aline evrything to keep it stright. the reluctor was a bit of a chalange seeing as i needed to add some metal for the pick up in the distributor to sence. took me 5 attempts to get the roller bearings (out of a nackered UJ)to be pick up (and not hit the internals). however its done... and tested. god damn works...on the bench using a honda civic coil

Not been on here much at all for a few months, mostly cos an unnamed mod changed one of my posts to make me look like even more of a cunt than I actually am without indicating that they had done so, this gave me a complete sense of humour failure so I lost quite a lot of interest. I guess I am over it now but we will see how things go.... Anyway I have been up to a bit of stuff in the absent months, I will let the pics mostly do the talking. Cost 3x boxes of beer White dust is from fingerprinting, was stolen and recovered.. Fitted pretty nice with minimal sheetmetal cutting Engine is seized, need to find another, but will use this to set up the mounts. Made a removable subframe for the rear and mid body mounts Later model safari steering box, this might be a sticking point but i have a plan that has been agreed with the cert man in principle. The box is rotated forward from the original position, the tie rod position is exactly the same though Front body mounts and steering box mount are all tied in. I have a design for this in CAD which looks pretty good. Fitted the Safari clutch booster in there with relative ease Engine is just propped there, I have moved it back 570mm to help with weight distribution/radiator clearance/etc. It also means I can use a SWB rear driveshaft. Gear linkage might be fun, although apparently the gearbox in a Condor/Atlas with the FD42 has the same box housing, the top plate and gearshift mech should respectively bolt on/be able to be modded to fit. Took it to a weighbridge to check axle loadings, 1755kg all up, 1130kg on the front. Axle ratings are 1500kg front and 1800 rear so should be good to go. The weighbridge was reading 65kg heavier by the time we were done so this is probably worst case. GVM of the Safari was 2505kg, so will be racecar. There is a lot to do yet, as I said the engine is seized so need to find another + turbo to put on it. Build the front cab mount and steering mount, engine and gearbox mounts Need to think how to build the front driveshaft, probably a shorty shaft to a frame mounted carrier, then use the standard front axle. Need to find FD42 gearbox linkage Probably needs new tyres and at least one more rim for a spare Need adjustable panhards and adjustable rear lower trailing arms to get the axles in a better position. It had a 2" lift that translates to about a 3.5" lift with the current weight, so axles are a bit off to one side and the rear will need rotating so the driveshaft flanges are parallel. Need to airbag the rear for load leveling. Need to convert the AC pump to continuous air for the airbags and whatever else Will need to build a deck with big ass drawers underneath for my tools. Will probably will have a budget hoist of some variety, maybe just an arm with a chain block. Electrical will be a nightmare as the cab is 12v and the chassis is 24v, need to talk to an auto sparky to discuss my ideas. Still need to 100% make sure that my cert guy will be able to take it on, there is no one in Nelson with 1D unfortunately. Piece of piss really.

Hi there, I'm just starting out with mig welding and wanna buy some panel steel to start playing with. Where do people buy their steel in Auckland? Cheers!

@datto_610 My parents found this the other day. Belongs to your wagon. I'll post it down. Its filled with period correct old Barry type dad scribbles and info

Yeah, not sure if i fucked up or not but both forks are leaking badly. Have bought some Vesrah Seals from colemans which i hope to get in tonight. Picless update, but got the swingarm off again last night, and installed the chain guide that i missed last time. got everything back together, and torqued down, set the chain tension and rear wheel alignment. All thats left to do before the shakedown ride Is Fork Seals, Battery and Brakes. Might even be out on it on the weekend! Still lots to do on the fairings though, and i have a higher capacity tank arriving off a 900 sometime in the next few days which will need a good tidy up and paint, but i think in the short term i'm just gonna give it a couple of coats of mattyb until i've settled on a colour. Will try to remember to snag some pics next time i'm out in the garage

Old rego system is full of errors, just go to the post office or NZTA and have the rego changed from sedan to wagon. Then only the most barry of wof inspectors would ever pick up on it. The car is older than most wof inspectors. There are heaps of Starlet hatchbacks registered as sedans and even vans.

True but he is asking about re-registering. Good luck trying to convince Land Transport or an inspector that putting plates and tags on a vehicle was not done for a dishonest purpose. The fact is, you cannot swap the identity of one vehicle to another regardless of the reason. To be re-registered, the burden of proof is on the person proving (physically with engine/chassis/ID numbers) that it is not stolen. Not that it might be or might not be because it is impossible to determine.

Thanks guys, I've bought the Weldtech EZITIG 200 now to learn how to weld, bit different to MIG/metal-glue-gun.

JB Weld allday.

Seat mounts done this morning Pushed it put of the garage for a fresh perspective

When the bracket is fixed to the motor its screws into a larger plate which is fixed to the firewall (all the fan and half of the motor is behind the firewall is the ventilation ducting) hope that makes sense

Failed my wof due to a dodgy steering rack so ordered a new one from the UK, added a few wee shiny bits onto the order to make the shipping charge worthwhil, a bullet wing mirror to replace the horrible plastic mirror a previous owner had fitted, and a 13inch Motolita steering wheel which I’d been lusting after for a long time. Had to sell off a few parts that I had sitting around (1275 Cooper s head, and twin carbs) to raise the dough for it all.

so i think i might have all the rust on the drivers underside done. rear guard......not bad at all and the arra at the front under the head light...made it a differant shape to factory but with 2 small holes it should drain better

Quick bulldozer shit post. I went to use it a few months ago and the oil light was flickering, turns out the fuel pump had split it's diaphragm and emptied the fuel tank into the sump. No biggie. I wanted to make an oil filler that didn't require taking the body work off to fit more engine oil. The fuel pump mount proved to be ideal and a trade me electric fuel pump now pumps the fuel. Worked out good so I tidied up the drive to celebrate.

625 kg heavier!!!! Bloody fatties.

This was tucked away over winter having some tickling. It was running really well last year, but was drinking a bit of oil, and would let out a puff of smoke when opening the throttle wide after a period of pootling. Compressions were good on all 4, symptoms pointed to valve stem seals, which is a common issue for these engines at this age. As a 'while I'm here' job, I decided to replace the inlet cam VVT pulley, as this had developed a rattle (again, extremely common due to wear of the internal teeth that engage to actuate the vvt timing change). NOS pulleys are available, but expensive , but the only other choice would be going standalone management and aftermarket vernier pulleys with a VVT delete - something I wasn't particularly keen on as I like that it runs so sweetly on stock management. I bit the bullet and bought a pulley and set of Supertech valve stem seals from Battle Garage in the US. Oh, and also a TRD 0.8mm high compression head gasket. Got the head off: Cleaned up the block surface. Take a look at the top of the pistons and take a guess at which ones have been burning oil... Head was in good nick, but the valve faces were all quite badly coked. Pulled these out, and cleaned them back to being mint, then lapped the valves/seats, reinstalled stem seals, valves, springs, clips, shims and buckets. All moved nicely and looked much fresher than when it came off. Refitted the head on the block, using the thinner HG - this is supposed to raise compression ratio to approx 11.5:1 (from 11:1 stock). Minimal gainz expected as it's on stock management, but is good futureproofing and is a small enough bump to not worry about detonation (I only put Super in it anyway). Replaced the VVT pulley, fitted cambelt (kept old tensioner, as this has only been on there for 1yr/1000km and was still mint), and got it all timed up and back at factory specs. Have driven it several times since and it feels just the same, seems to be using a negligible amount of oil (i.e I haven't noticed a drop at all so far, win!), and doesn't produced an annoying VVT pulley rattle at idle. Quite happy all in all! Have a recent snap from a local breakfast meet:

In a few days I’ll hopefully post a video of my son and I skating it. He’s only 6 but is seriously better on ramp than I am. I want to seal it to protect the wood.. the internet seems to say use polyurethane. I’m worried that it might make the ramp (plywood surface) too slippery? Does anyone have any experience?

Look what arrived, looks like @Mof gets a gobby.

Equally no-one will be able to prove that it is stolen.

Hey. Here is a tricky one. I have been looking at a car on Trademe. And I can clearly tell the number plate and tags have been swapped at some stage. The plates come back as the wrong model and also the wrong body type, it's a early model wagon but the plates and tags on it are for a later model sedan. I have been talking to the seller and they had no idea that the plates had been swapped, they brought the car 7 years ago from an old guy who had a little collection of said old cars, so I'm thinking that the old wagon plates had expired so he did a dodgy and swapped the plates for some live sedan plates. Rightly so, now that the seller knows the plates aren't legit, they don't want to sell the car for fear of getting in trouble. Because the wagons are rare I want to see if I can help them get it legal so they can sell it, so hopefully there will be another wagon on the road. So... what are their options? There are no other tags on it, except for this sedan one, which is clearly wrong. I can't even ID the year, other than it was made some time between 1972 and 1978. It has been driving around and getting WOFs for the last 7 years with the wrong plates and tags, and nobody has noticed. Can they do a Statutory Declaration and say that they have owned it for 7 years and were unaware that the plates had been switched by the previous owner? Would they then need to re-register the car?

I think it’s going to be put on hold for a few months.