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paint. 2016-07-17_12-43-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-07-17_03-59-46 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-07-17_04-02-05 by sheepers, on Flickr

Discussion Thread hi all after an epic trip to auckland i picked up a 1965 rambler classic verry tidy inside and out running the std 6 and auto lowered on charger rims just a mint tidy cruiser will upload more pics soon

So the last few days have been spent sorting out the brakes, funnily enough with the master cylinders switched over it now stops like a champ so pretty happy about that. Drove the neighbors crazy running the car up and down the street slamming on the brakes but it had to be done. I also got the new shorter springs and threw them in and there is no heaps of clearance on the tyre so that will be all good now. So it is already for it's retest now. I had some time today so I sorted out something that has been bugging me for a while, there is a small cover at the top of the bonnet that I took off a while back to get some paint colour matched and then I left it out as the engine generates a bit more heat than the old crossflow and I thought it would be a good idea to let it escape, anyway it is a reasonable sized hole and it looked a bit messy with nothing on it so I did this. First holesaw some holes Then swage them with the tool I made a while back And fit to car and here is the car now that I have raised the back up by 25mm I can now get out of the drive without scraping but it still looks good I reckon. Fingers crossed that the next post will be to say that I have cert

Then the cross member. The factory part is crazily complicated becasue in the 'De luxe' version its a rear passenger foot warmer. My car is not deluxe, but has the heater and the vents just missing the section over the tunnel between them. Managed to reuse the factory 'airbox' parts It does make the part signiicantly stronger if nothing else. The factory contruction is 4 rectangular holse with 2 on the rear and 3 on the front covered by a plate spotted over them. WHy? I dont know, so i didnt do that. IT FITS! Then the tunnell strengthening plate. I dont have a bead roller but i do have hammers and a vice and a bit of rod to make the ribs. Flattened out and then bent the other way, plus drill a lot of holse in it. I made this a bit bigger than factory to pick up on the cross members instead of the middle of the floor. BAM! - and the rust is gone I did reuse the remains of the cover plate. Just the drivers headlight area to go and thats all the rust! I have yet to chop any sections off the parts car, other than the exhaust which I faffed around with this evening and is going on next.

Ran into Paul and Frank Radisich at the Speedshow today Paul signed the glovebox lid, which was cool. Had a bit of a yarn with them about Telstars, they reckon there were around 2000 cars made in three separate runs (which would explain the number of cars still turning up on TradeMe). Paul was backwards and forwards between here and his touring car commitments in the UK, choosing colours, trim, suspension options etc. They also have three Telstars, one of which is still only on dealership kms... And in other news, i'm still waiting for parts to arrive. So while the engine bay is comparatively empty, I can do some future-proofing and general maintenance stuff. Like the clutch master cylinder (which is leaking), CV boots (which have split), rear springs (to cure the Mexi-stance), brake fluid, polish, vacuum etc.

Progress is far slower than it should be, but hopefully a lot more happening on it soon.

What's up old schoolers. I almost biffed the 618/616 gearbox X member - glad I didn't as it actually can easily be made to fit s4/5 rx7 gear boxes. The RX2 gear box X member is a short son bitch and the RX2 mounts come very close if a s4/5 box is fitted. I blasted it up yesterday ready to mod and paint. It's good to use as it has mounts already there attached to the chassis rails (616 not RX2) Next - header fab time. My mate knocked me up these headers - soooo stoked. I will be ordering the Adrenalin R resonators x4 and a dumpy soon. Watch this space. My mate has a jig for making a hilux diff suit RX2 - flanges have been laser cut and are now on the diff. Next step is to cut diff and mock up with wheels axles and brakes under my car to make sure it fits. It's going to be close. Next - making my RX2 struts fit the random Honda Odyssey fully adjustable units. My mate lathed them apart and interference fit them together = press fit. Tidy job and I owe him some bourbon!!! Top fella This is the original rx2 strut next to the new adjusties Hilux 6 stud axles are now turned down to fit the FC rx7 brake discs. Not the old holes haven't been filled....I was told that heating the hubs is not a great idea. There is loads of meat for re drilling 4x110 and this will get done when I get the axles cur and resplined. I want to have an extension added to the centre of the hub so that the rim can locate...how? Do I need one? And finally....I bought two of these off eBay as they are old from the 80s unused and cheap

Havnt updated for a while but havnt been doing nothing. sigh. nothing or it but to keep cutting till its clean steel. Cut it all out Floor panel pattern. Pretty sure this is the first panel installed on the chassis, it is under all the other panels and was a pain to get out and install spotted in and primered

The cars are apparently really good, but no ones liked Lotus' marketing strategy. You had to buy the whole 'Exos Club' experience, involved a trainer, nutritionist, race series, etc... Plus you didn't get the car, Lotus prepared it and took it to the track for you. We'll offer support for them (both existing ones out in the world, and the ones we sell moving forward), but the owner actually get to keep the car they've bought and use it as they like.

I'll be keen, just not enough time to bake up some kids thankfully

Really need to learn solid works

Brought the seats down to check sizing/clearance and it looks like it will work! I really forget how small the 1300 is because these seats really arent that big but they only barely fit! They're pretty snug with the widened trans tunnel and don't look too out of place. Will have a play around with the mountings and get them sitting nicely soon. When they get retrimmed I might get old mate to bring the side cushions in slightly as well for better fitment. Also began stripping the engine and transmission back to detail and tidy up. The engine was painted in basic silver/black combo when it was built about a year and a half ago but it has just been sitting since so has gathered some dust and i'm wanting to go down a different path in terms of colour. The transmission had a good thick layer of grime on it so spent about 3 hours attacking it with degreaser, waterblaster, scotchbrite pads and wire wheel diegrinder but shit is caked on pretty hard so gonna spend half the day tomorrow attacking it and hopefully throw some paint on. Here's a shameless instagram filtered pic for good measure.. Cheers Tai

Undersealed the inside floor and boot. Didn't go too hard case as this will all be covered with carpet and shit later but it's awesome having it all tidied up.

true that, july/august is always busy. We're always keen to drink at the bogan farm, should have the drag strip up n running by then too. On another note, we'll do new years again this year if people are keen

Oh that was me above

That is 100% in the too hard basket. Car will never be finished.

Didn't catch you fellas this morning in the pits and didn't really think the arvo was a good time to talk racecars. Tuff day on the gravel

Brought a few smaller parts back from the USA recently, mostly carb kits and a better filter plus NPT fittings to re-do the fuel pump setup. Also intake gaskets and some PS rebuild parts. Rough plans are to re-do the fuel pump plumbing to include the filter and an adjustable regulator (although the Mr Gasket one I've got looks a bit crap). Also have an oil pressure cutout switch to add to the wiring to make it a bit safer. At some point the PS system needs work at is leaks even more than engine (and that is saying something!) Got a used heated spacer to work with the 4-barrell manifold, and a Autolite top to get the choke plates parts from. Shaggy Autolite 4100 on the left and shaggy Holley on the right. Picked up a new 620CCA battery today too, so hopefully will be a better starter now on.

The brace I made to hold the motor in 1 place worked very well And the new cross member works well and uses all of the shelf Toyota mounts. Also a plus to see everything else fits back on. I bolted a set of leave spring back in and mounted the difg and it 2 fits....just need some long u blots now so I can make the blocks once its all back together. Slapped a 10" wide steelie on but it wouldnd clear the calipers but I think with the right size offset I will be able to get a 10" under the rear gaudes.

And dropped back into engine bay to check measure clearances etc [/url] next missions are plate adaptor for starter motor engine mounts sump chop new clutch ...

Safe speeding in an 80k zone

The good thing with triumphs is everything craps out within the first few months of ownership. After that they are usually as reliable as a wood burning stove.... change the oil condenser and points and plugs and you will have a happy machine just dont do burnouts, they can do epic burnouts but your diff will reward you with throwing its spider gears at the worst possible time.

The problem is it will always look a bit naff. I want to stay away from bad bodykit mods as much as possible to keep flatpeakers at arms length. To get the performance I want I need a decent airbox rather than feeding directly from a scoop as benefits are +1000. I agree Markku that car is le' tits. Makes me want to put a big cam in it straight away. Ive got uprated valve Springs already. I'm very interested to see what marks aw11 2zz mods make on the dyno

Yeh all good man. Kris is the name.

I do its clocked up an easy 20,000ks no issues.

an ideal thing for those onramp lights would be a mental turbo v8 with a trans brake to do some commutering with well thats what comes to mind every time i go through one

I spent today cleaning the yuck off of the engine, giving it a tune up, flushing the cooling system and replacing the pinion seal on the diff. Cleaning the yuck off the engine was a huge job. It looks like the valve cover gasket started leaking about 20 years ago and was never addressed. There was oil everywhere. In some places it was over 2 cm thick! I scraped off probably about 5 kg of it by the end and used 6 or 7 cans of degreaser and a bucket of laundry powder/water mix. After: Before: The pictures really don't illustrate just how bad it was. I should have taken a picture of the underside of the car. The cooling system was just filled with rusty water - not cool! The heater core was almost entirely blocked and it took a solid forty five minutes of flushing to get it flowing freely and have no more orange colour to the water. I filled it with a mix of green coolant and water. The heater works well now. The diff pinion seal was leaking so I swapped that out for a new one. Hopefully it lasts a while. The diff may need to come apart at some point as it has quite a lot of backlash. Other than that the diff is actually really good, it is nice and quiet. I also put new oil in the diff. The engine has a bit of a rumbling sound in it. Could this be main bearings? I'll pull the accessories belt tomorrow and see if that stops the noise. It's definitely not a knocking sound. I adjusted the choke cable and set the idle speed and idle mixture - I had to wind the idle mixture screw in about 15 turns. Whoever set it last time was a numpty, spark plugs were kind of blackish from running rich. This weekend's job will be to tackle the damaged paint surfaces from where brake fluid leaked out in the past. The car also needs some low at some point in the future. It is ridiculously high. Here are some more pictures of the car:

Oooooooook. 1ggte cortina cross member ....take 2

Less than a week to go now. So since I've publicised the event on facebook I've received a fair bit of criticism. I don't mind as it's good to get the opinions of regular attendees. For those who don't remember, we publicised the event via facebook quite a while ago (last year, maybe the year before? I forget). Quite a few more people turned up and they were generally pretty good, adhered to the rules and made an effort to talk to others. However there was a very small minority of approximately three cars and about the same number of people who ended up causing a bit of trouble. With this in mind and the increasing numbers of potential members who know of us through facebook, I decided to mention the upcoming meet on our Oldschool.co.nz facebook page. I have deliberately chosen this month's meet to try this out on for a couple of reasons: - It's the middle of winter. So anybody who makes a conscious decision to attend will be battling the cold and possibly the elements. Essentially, it's easier to turn up to an event on a good day/night but much harder to do so when it's cold, dark and possibly raining. If anything the weather and season will be a deterrent for many, but if new members still show up despite this then it's an indication that they are probably genuinely keen to be a part of things. - Being a winter meet, we generally have a lower turnout for the Monthly Meets. As such, there will be more parking space for potential new members and extra cars. The same cannot be said for the summer months. Essentially I am expecting a few newbies to show up, having heard about the meet solely through facebook. Some of these people I know, some of them other members may know and the rest may be complete strangers. I have briefed a few members who will be attending to help me to both make the new members feel welcome and to help me re-iterate the rules and culture of our casual meets. Rest assured, this will not be a bunch of cunts turning up to spoil or in any way ruin the easy going nature of the meets. Rather it is an opportunity to extend a welcome to new members who may share our interests but not have a particular group that they can turn to for advice etc. All I ask is that if new members do show up, just make an effort to at least say hello to them. I'll be doing my best to hover around and talk to as many people as I can but some help would be greatly appreciated. And if you see anybody doing something that they shouldn't, please remind them of the rules. Again, I'll be doing this as well but it can't hurt to ask for help if and when required. So it's basically going to be a standard Monthly Meet but with a few potentially new faces and cars. As per usual I will be there and will have Oldschool stickers on me if anybody requires some, $5 each. Hope to see you all there.

Tonight's jobs: Don't know who can be bothered painting engine bays while the engine is in it but I sure as hell can't. Bombed it with underseal will clean up the overspray on components later. Engine sure needs a dress up though, yuck! Also dealt to rust on underside of bootlid with grinder and brunox. Will paint that, the boot weather channels and front valance next

much fucking around waiting for parts and changing my mind on things has resulted in it still not going yet. however the motor is in the car for permanent (this time round) and the only major bit I'm missing at this point is the intake manifold. so, whats been done? modify and strengthen the gearbox crossmember mount to bring it up to current cert regs head has been hardness tested, cleaned and reassembled with new stem seals. valves re-seated and stage 2 BC cams fitted. powerhouse racing pulley kit ATI harmonic balancer titan adjustable cam gears gates blue cam belt NZ EFI ultra high output coils with built in igniters other things. the block came with no engine number so i thought id better put one on it so i can identify it if i need to for whatever reason. 2016-07-13_05-58-18 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-07-13_08-41-27 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-07-13_08-43-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-07-13_08-44-10 by sheepers, on Flickr

Etch primer laid out. More to come soon. Chur Tai

Went back to this possum palace place again, super muddy and slippery. Only one way to get around the place, max rpm. I also mowed their lawn, since im such a good cunt

I like the idea of that, but I don't want to stray too far from the Oldschool way of life which is to include pretty much anything so long as it's old or we like it. I don't want to limit an event to just a particular type of vehicle. However I'm sure that if Dean turns up in the Charger you guys (and Ben) could come up with some sort of cruise and post it up on here. I really think this is a good idea but I don't want to be the person to organise it. Plus I don't have an American car hahaha.

Have been trying a few more things with this engine. with more fairly disappointing results. / kinda boring update Firstly i brought some bigger cams, since going from the stock cams to kelford 193-b was quite a big improvement. have gone next step bigger with 193-c cams I initially installed them to the factory marks. which resulted in big loss in power everywhere. except the last 500rpm or so. ended up with the exhaust retarded 10degrees and the inlet advanced 20degrees. Which gained back most of the losses. but still slightly less power everywhere except right up top, over the smaller cams. Then I started to pull some of the car apart so could dial wheel the cams, to see if they were ground slightly off or anything. as was initially too lazy to do this. Got a bit carried away and pulled the head off and did some more port work, both on inlet and exhaust side. got my china on a copied some pictures of Hasselgren's work, who built atlantic 4age's back in the day. Back together with the cams dialed as they were, maybe some minor gains from the port work. nothing really measurable but definitely not a loss. But it turns out when i dial wheeled the cams, the inlet was way off. 20degrees retarded, which is 1 whole tooth on the cam wheel. Kelfords had managed to grind the cam 20 degrees off. So the whole time i thought it was running 20degrees advance, it was actually dialed to their recommended settings. No big drama, skipped the cambelt a tooth to regain the adjustment on the camgears. Dialed in 10degrees advance on the inlet. along with the 10retard on the exhaust cam. which just happens to be the same settings i was running the old 193-b cams at. After all that, some not bad gains through the midrange. but almost nothing up top over the smaller cams. something its restricting it making anymore peak power. ive pretty much tried everything bolt-on wise, so pointing the finger at head flow, larger valves maybe required to go any further Pink lines are old cams. Can see the rpm plot, the green (new cam) line starts to pull away slightly. plus its using more injector d/c for same fuel ratio. Indicates some gains. This is the top row of fuel map. bottom grey-ish line is old cams. top grey one is new cams. green line is different length trumpets on new cams. ignore anything below 4000rpm. Can see how gains are very minimal up top. Tbh is going the best it ever has. but not giving up just yet.. Oh and the light toda flywheel is awesome. revs so fast in lower gear now

Big things happening, stay tuned

I have my hilux diff getting the rx2 brackets welded on at the moment and then I will have the axles re splined and cut. I'm having to re drill the hub 4x110 as well as the new s5 rx7 brakes and have the hub centre turned down on a lathe so I can fit and locate my Simmons. Bosch 044 fuel pump purchased the other day too. Arches done inner and outer - just needs to be tidied up and painted in the similar colour to the body. Plates are all skimmed and now I have to have the rotating assembly balanced AGAIN due to the new rotors.... Struts ready in a couple of weeks and I hope to have it rolling as soon as I get the shell back.

Success! and i only had to buy a whole car to get them

the fear when they realise they're low on booze.

50 butts!