Jump to content

1967 Morris FG Cabover


HumberSS

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

FGSpecs.JPG.f0a3ca5671d467ef7856a1c7d28987cb.JPG

13 hours ago, cubastreet said:

Single digit MPG!

Glad you've got the valve unstuck.

So how do you find out the gvm?

The tare weight is painted on it. And that is 2530. 

According to this grainy sales brochure I'm guessing the GVM is 6000kgs which even with a deck will get my dozer around. But I found this website which seems to suggest it is nearly the same as my GMC Sierra which also gets a COF. 

Mine is a 550FG. So lord knows what that translates to below. 

FG Specs 2.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So yours has the 3 ton Axle?

I remember that resto. I looked at an FG out your way about 5 years ago, and was keen but the seller wasn't motivated enough to move all the crap to pull it out of the shed. Maybe they had the chassis de- rated at the time for cheaper rego or something? 

I would guess the manufacturer's spec would still stand.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/hvsc/tb/heavy-vehicle-chassis-ratings-modification-thresholds

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I couldn't be bothered. All for a straight 6 petrol. 

Therefore I'm open to ideas of where to go with this project. I do have an isuzu diesel in the shed but I really wanted that for my C20 chev. A detroit diesel would be a LOT of fun but I don't even know where to find one. 

Might have to browse FB marketplace to see which diesel engines are floating about nearby. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nuffield/Leyland diesel tractor four cylinder might be a valid option if wanting to keep it kind of original or at least as an example of what might have been. The 3.8 as found in Leyland 384 or the 3.4 as found in Leyland 344. Not sure of Nuffield models but fairly sure most parts were interchangeable as those first Leylands were pretty much a Nuffield with different bodywork. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, broken housing ideas time.

My vote is as follows.

  • bolt housing into place with single remaining fastener.
  • Take a pair of good vicegrips, use these over the housing flange and that tab of unbroken steel to clamp things together.
  • Weld up the jaws of the vicegrips so that they cannot come lose.
  • optional: if you'd like the repair to be more professional, once the jaws are welded solid you may use an angle grinder or gas axe to cut the rest of the vicegrips away so that only the clamped and welded jaws remain.

 

Or, yeah i guess if you couldn't be bothered brazing up the thread and you don't have a welder then you could drill right down through a bit larger and use a longer bolt with a nut?

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...