johnny.race

Diffs

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On 16/09/2019 at 21:45, RUNAMUCK said:

After combing Aliexpress endlessly, @furyimp has found one of these. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32856463132.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.471c4c4dWb6nYh

He's bought the last one, and hopefully it should do the trick. (Apparently the sandvik version of this same tool is $700!)

Tooling aint cheap! we have similar gear that prices in the home deposit area.

I have a mate with the gear to make such cutters if that thing doesn't work out

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Out of interest, are there any driveshafts that you're aware of that share the same universals with 9" Ford (ie bolt in with u bolt style)

Im guessing Explorer or Falcon perhaps?

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I've never really looked into it but will say this - 9" diffs run a range of UJ's. I've seen 1330's and 1350's on ones sitting here OEM. And I've seen what looks similar in size to a 1310 come off BW78's so yeah dunno ... but 1350 is the good size matey.

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Thanks, have nearly finished assembling my Moser Floating 9" with Strange.. Finally got to take the 9" that I'd mocked up out of the car

Need to find a donor driveshaft to chop up for the universals, or stump up the big bucks lol

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Those Falcons, Holdens ... they are all a bit on the small side if you are running something like a 9" I reckon. You go through the trouble and expense to install a strong diff then handicap the deal by running a small UJs if running anything off a coon or commy. 

The black yoke in the pic below is a 1350 OEM 9" item. The rusty one next to it is one I found here that came from off a 90 something Coon. I dunno what size it is but probably a 1330 or similar at a guess. I have seen plenty of 1310 stuff - they are puny.

908190629_20190924_121928(Medium).jpg.d48373f2a03f55140a81f95d86b5b28c.jpg

Another 1350 one but a billet by Strange.

1591144909_20190924_121812(Medium)(2).jpg.f33cda715f087d8248eecc7ccefc9427.jpg

860526572_20190924_121824(Medium).jpg.4275e7bcecd2b4651c5eb29c3b67b148.jpg

 

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How should you measure the universal size? 

To get the 1310, 1330, 1350 Going by photos my STRANGE one looks like a 1350 but pay for me to measure up first

Thanks for the pics

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This is a 1350 setup. The cap diameter of the UJ is approx 1 3/16" and the cross is around the 3 5/8" mark, when its fitted. The part number for the UJ is U 1640. This is the cheaper model that features no grease nipple.

103918127_20190929_115951(Medium).jpg.077703796c7fa610e760177155ccc6e5.jpg

 

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On 23/09/2019 at 21:51, CUL8R said:

Thanks, have nearly finished assembling my Moser Floating 9" with Strange.. Finally got to take the 9" that I'd mocked up out of the car

Need to find a donor driveshaft to chop up for the universals, or stump up the big bucks lol

If you have gone to the trouble and expense of getting a 9 inch with all the good gear, don't stuff round with trying to use a secondhand drive shaft. I had the one on my Holden built with new everything except the yoke into the trans, 3 inch shaft rated to more horse power and revs than the 5 litre Holden will ever get near for $750 including tax. One busted drive shaft will do more than $750 worth of damage.

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Some 8.8 pics for those who are interested 

Good points?

Pretty cheap due to the rest of an explorer being a turd and prone to failure

Internet says they are pretty strong, they were used in many different high performance or heavy duty applications in us models

Lots of bits and different ratios available easily from rockauto 

5x114.3 pattern, 1/2 wheel studs

2 short axles and narrow one side of the housing and it's the right width for a valiant (57''ish)

Explorer ones, which are the only common one found in nz, are usually lsd, 31 spline, 3.7 ratio, disc brake with internal drum handbrake 

Bad points?

C clip axles which can be a safety issue

Wheel bearings run directly on the axle surface so once the hardening wears off the axle is bung

Spider gears seem prone to damage, I've disassembled a few and found chips and wear on the gears in all of them 

 

20191019_170931.jpg

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20191019_172059.jpg

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All this talk of 8.8s, BW78s and Hilux diffs have caused me to ruminate lately with things that I have discovered over the rears.

As someone who has a number of failed diff upgrades behind him, and a number of successful ones too it is my opinion that unless you are building a very big HP car that you intend to drag race or do mad burnouts with a factory LSD upgrade is all you need, or an aftermarket center. By that I mean adding a Quaife LSD center to your Escort/Anglia/Cortina diff or upgrading the center of your Valiant/Holden/Falcon diff with a rebuilt factory LSD center.

If you are building a serious car with big HP, stump up the cash and buy a 9inch. It might cost you a bit more initially but in the long run it will work out cheaper and better. So to clarify I'm not opposed to 8.8 swaps for example, as said above they are cheap, strong and come stock with an LSD. But. . . factor into that shorten the housing, source another axle, change a crown wheel and pinion, weld on your spring perches and deal with all the worn out bits in a diff that was new 20 plus years ago and hasn't been touched since. Yes you'll have a good strong diff in the back of your car. It will still have C clip axles, bearings that run on the axle, and be a back hat design. In my experience it will cost at a decent percentage so of an equivalent 9inch it will probably cost more than that  by the time it's up and running but it wont be a 9inch.

The same applies to BW78 diffs too.

This is my opinion.

Please discuss.

 

 

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My understanding is that the 8.8 is/was the factory's replacement option for applications they would have used a 9 inch if they were still making them. A 9 inch equipped to the same spec as the Explorer diff would be a pricey beast indeed. I'm a 9 inch owner but fuck ... one of those 8.8's in the flesh is a big arse beasty of a diff. 

Hey Clint ... you must be running some 'up there' pinion offset by running 2 axles the same length?

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What difference does it make having equal length axles? I know nothing about diffs but while rebuilding the diff for my isuzu I noticed it had equal length axles so at least I only need to carry 1 for a spare

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except when one snaps (or fails) all the load is on the other for an instant

yeah you;ll get home but other needs to be replaced at same time to (as best practice

thats my experiance with the Avenger & locked (welded) diff & Axle failures, the other showed signs of twist / damage on the spline area

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2 hours ago, Valiant said:

 

 

Please discuss.

 

 

Before I bought the 8.8 I did price up a new 9" build, and it was cost reasons for going the way I did. I got a quote for a new housing and axles which was going to be about $2300, I cant remember how much a center was going to be exactly but I recall a new one with a good lsd was another 2-2.5k or thereabouts, and that was without a brake setup.  So around 5k?

The 8.8 wasn't as cheap as I thought it was going to be but it was less. These are approximate prices but pretty close to what I've spent

$500 for the whole diff including brakes from a wrecker

$900 for rebuild parts, ring and pinion etc

$900 for housing mods and rebuild 

$200 new discs and brake pads

$150 for another short axle and some better spider gears 

$150 Fancy diff cover

$100 spring pads, paint, brake pipes etc 

So around $3k ready to go

 This is the first time I've added it up so I guess time will tell if it is an economic win or not  

 

 

 

 

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