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Finally getting around to cleaning out the intake on my 1KZ (well cleaning out the one I got from pick a part and swapping it on anyway).

Figured I might as well blank off the EGR while I'm at it, would I be correct in assuming I'll need to remove at least one of the butterflies out of the throttle body with the EGR fully blocked off?

I've not had fuck all to do with EGR but I believe at idle the main butterfly is fully closed and the small vacuum controlled one is shut so all the intake air is exhaust?

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You don't have to, but it serves no purpose anymore. It does quieten down the idle a little bit but hardly.

EGR doesn't normally function at idle, it's more of a light load situation and the engine still eats fresh air in the process.

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Thanks, will ditch the smaller butterfly and seal up the spindle holes as it's leaking at the spindle seals anyway.

Was a Aussie hard yakka 4x4 Barry forum I came across that had me wondering as they all leave a 10mm hole in the EGR plate so they can keep the butterflies to avoid rough shutdown etc.

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I've never noticed any issue with blanking the EGR completely and leaving the butterflies as is, and I've blanked a few.

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Just have to take the vaccume line off the vac solenoid that shuts the small butterfly for soft shutdown otherwise it will not idle. Just put a plug in the end of it/a small screw works

 Have done this on both of my prados

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1 hour ago, JustHarry said:

Just have to take the vaccume line off the vac solenoid that shuts the small butterfly for soft shutdown otherwise it will not idle. 

Learnt about that when the linkage for the small butterfly managed to come to bits while driving, took me a while to figure out what was causing super rough idle with massive clouds of white raw diesel smoke (damn I got some filthy looks one Saturday morning when it completely clouded traffic on the North shore haha), have had the butterfly jammed fully open ever since.

 

Just need to get the gaskets for the manifold and throttle body and I'll swap it over to the new one.

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My van has fly by wire throttle/ efi/ the butterfly thing controlled by the ecu

When I blocked the egr it idled funny, I removed the throttle plate from the shaft and left everything else connected, no engine check light and it runs and idles fine 

 

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evening diesel spammers, i've got a 2005 courier 2.5 wlt with a sick injector pump. its leaking heavily out of the bottom. i took the housing off today, removed the springs and seat and a small piston/ slider, cleaned but its no better. can anyone tell me what that parts called and is it serviceable? 

pump.jpg

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That is the timing control solenoid thing, dunno about how to fix it though.

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cheers, helps to know what it is at least. i'm useless with diesel injection. never touched it. it just works usually! lol. fuck i sound like the wife 

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Hi guys, I have a TD27T D21 Terrano. Not the most powerfull diesel on the market but it gets us by.

Just wondering if its worth getting a boost tap and guage and throwing a few more pounds at it as ill be doing a bit more towing from now on with it. Its auto so ill do the trans cooler aswell. Recently had the fuel pump rebuilt and its better than it was (was leaking internally and only ran with a 12V aux pump). Intercooler worth doing?

Any help or advice much appreciated.

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On 15/05/2020 at 10:00, Raizer said:

Thanks, will ditch the smaller butterfly and seal up the spindle holes as it's leaking at the spindle seals anyway.

Was a Aussie hard yakka 4x4 Barry forum I came across that had me wondering as they all leave a 10mm hole in the EGR plate so they can keep the butterflies to avoid rough shutdown etc.

they leave the hole in the 1kd motors and the 1gr as its more controlled via ecu. on 1kz you dont need to. my hilux went alot better with egr blocked off and 3 inch exhaust

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Just now, brocky41 said:

Hi guys, I have a TD27T D21 Terrano. Not the most powerfull diesel on the market but it gets us by.

Just wondering if its worth getting a boost tap and guage and throwing a few more pounds at it as ill be doing a bit more towing from now on with it. Its auto so ill do the trans cooler aswell. Recently had the fuel pump rebuilt and its better than it was (was leaking internally and only ran with a 12V aux pump). Intercooler worth doing?

Any help or advice much appreciated.

Definitely worth fitting a boost gauge and egt gauge and upping the boost and fueling, can probably give it a little bit more timing advance too, need a dti gauge and adapter to set it correctly. An exhaust upgrade will make a noticeable difference, most of the jap diesels have pretty small exhausts

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Pretty much a 1KZ specific question (also applies to 1KD and 2KD I believe), not worth starting a thread for.

My van's vacuum pump for the brakes etc has likely fucked out and it is driven off the timing gears that spin the diesel pump and balance shafts etc.
If I pull just the vac pump off to change it am I likely to fuck up the fuel pump timing or cause any other issues?

I can't find fuck all searching Google other than a bunch of Aussies arguing over the specifics of the pump itself lol

 

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/woIAAOSwX2xesn-i/s-l300.jpg

I'm probably just being over cautious, but I really can't afford to fuck it up.

 

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The pump runs off to the side of the main gear set, I'll find a diagram shortly

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Here's a shit pic of a 1KD. Pretty sure I had a KZ specific one too, but haven't found it yet. I'll upload the actual pic when I get the time

Ok can't upload, I get a dialog box saying

7

Please contact us for assistance

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https://assets.autodata-group.com/sites/technical_images/150000/images/150123.png

Might work?

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