Toddy415 Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 I have one of these 5 channel beasts at home (pic off net), one of the last high quality amps Sony made in Japan these things are huge. Will install it again one of these days. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 On 30/05/2018 at 19:25, Muncie said: Just bought this throwback to the 90s brand new in the box. Now to see if it can run some subs all the instructions are hilarious showing a tapedeck. Built before amps had crossovers in them it used to have to be plugged into a companion box to get low pass curiously it can run as a 3 channel with this Eq box. As my headunit has a sub-out i wouldn't mind betting it'll work and sound beautiful. If it cant run them i have something else suitable but not as cool. If anyone is keen on this its for sale pm me. Decided to only run 2 amps and i need to use my 4 channel for the application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manamari Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 Just put some speakers in my van the fronts and rears work sweet with fm/am, but only the fronts work with the aux? Tried a different head unit but still have the same problem What's wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 are you running an amp thats triggered off the electric areal blue wire instead of the aux switch blue wire? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manamari Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 No amp and haven't touched the blue wires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhangareiKE70 Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 This might be basic but have you tried a different aux cord? Could only be getting mono not stereo through the cord? I have had a similar problem with a faulty cord before. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 ^ I'm picking it's the cord, or the source unit has a cover or something preventing full engagement of the plug so only one contact is working. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Might wanna check where your speaker channels are too. You'll probably find one channel is running to both front speakers instead of both left speakers, for example. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manamari Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Yeah it was only the cord Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted November 26 Share Posted November 26 thread dredge, i couldnt find another doof doof/ICE thread in 15secs so using this one I am putting some very basic small doof doofs in my note. I need to change the headunit from jap nav spec anyway (DMH A4450bt going in), so i have acquired a pioneer TS WX610A sub for the spare wheel well, and some low-mid 2way spec speakers for the doors TS F1740s, fed from a teeny little GM-D1400 amp. Should be nice sound for a small car fingers crossed Anywho - i need power supplies to both the sub (inbuilt amp) and little amp, in days gone by i would have just pushed these two yellow cables through firewall and bolted/smooshed to positive terminal but figure there's possibly a nicer solution? Best terminal bus bar type product to either hook both on to or run a little lead in to a junction box of sorts? I'd rather not have yellow cables weaving through the engine bay - whats best bet for sheathing thats not corrugated split tubing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx7 Posted November 26 Share Posted November 26 Heat shrink cable tubing? Cheaper alternatives via ali etc. Doesn't really protect the wires like split tubing does, but can look tidier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted November 26 Share Posted November 26 Spiral wrap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Aliexpress braided cable sheath works good and has held up fine in UV on the boat. Bit of black heat shrink on each end makes it look nice n tidy 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 chur, this stz? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003887563443.html what i'm referring to as a busbar at battery/junction box internally, seems to be known as a distribution block (my bad) - any thoughts on what's better - bring both amp connections to battery terminal, or just run a single lead into the car to a distribution block and from there out to the amps. In either case, I'm guessing best to run a fuse close to battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Yeah that will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Yeah fuse or breaker as close to the battery as practical, distro block to amps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 If the amps run different sized wire, won't it be an issue if the fuse used at the battery is rated to more than what the smaller wire is? Maybe I wasted my time running amp + headunit as separate wires all the way to battery end. With a fuse on each of them rated accordingly. Or with the distro do you run individual fuses after the block and one at the battery end? My theory, right or wrong, was that a skinny wire will light up before a large fuse will trip, if the large fuse is protecting both wires. What say thee? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Yeah I think you'd run a fuse downstream of distribution block too, rated for the downstream cable it's protecting 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 32 minutes ago, Bling said: If the amps run different sized wire, won't it be an issue if the fuse used at the battery is rated to more than what the smaller wire is? Maybe I wasted my time running amp + headunit as separate wires all the way to battery end. With a fuse on each of them rated accordingly. Or with the distro do you run individual fuses after the block and one at the battery end? My theory, right or wrong, was that a skinny wire will light up before a large fuse will trip, if the large fuse is protecting both wires. What say thee? Amps normally have their own fuses on them, the fuse at the battery isn't to protect any of your audio gear, it's to protect the car if the power cable ever shorted out. Edit: re-read your post, yeah you could run fuses between the distro block and each amp if you're stepping down gauge. Or fused block 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 Yep, something like that would be ideal, any idea of where to get locally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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