Bearded Baldy Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 Have you tried going to a PV that opens earlier, and put a piece of safety tie wire through the PV ports in the metering plate. Can work wonders sometimes. Bit of reading here explains it better than i can. https://www.aussiespeedshop.com/carb-tuning-help/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 ^^ that odd, cos all the books I've read say to open those up for more gas. Theres a new carb released by edlebrock (apparently Holley are getting out of carbs all together) which is in the Holley style, and has removable jets in the power valve orifaces. Rule of thumb is to pick a number half your idle vacuum figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 Yeah it had a 6.5 in it , I put a 3.5 in yesterday and it does seem to be better The carb has had a few mods for blow thru, the pv chamber has been boost referenced. It was done by a guy in Australia a while back who specialized in blow thru carbs. At the time I just bolted it on but this time I've been trying to figure out why he did what he did, and how it works there's an external vac line from the throttle plate with a check valve , to a t piece. The t piece goes to the pv chamber Off the other part of the t piece is a small tap with a small hole, and a tiny one. This goes to the hat on top of the carb I *think* it works like this Idle, low load cruise, the vac is enough to keep the pv shut even though there's a 'leak' through the little tap As it starts to make boost the positive pressure overcomes any vacuum (this is where it gets funky as there can be a vacuum under the carb but pressure above it. This can mess with the pv because the fuel bowl gets pressure as that is vented to the hat which creates a pressure difference between the 2 sides of the pv Getting the balance of various vacuum and boost leaks to go in the right places at the right times seems to be the key I know efi would be better and more efficient but I'm a derp and like the simplicity 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 I don't have a super clear pic but you can see the hoses on the side of the carb here 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 ^interesting. Mine I just ran the line from the throttle plate to the manifold well after the carb. I used a 2, (or 2.5? I dont recall exactly) inch of vacuum PV. (It was the lowest number you can buy) this must have had the weakest spring, meaning it could be held shut by only 2 inches. I only had to breath on the throttle, and my vacuum dropped to zero. (In most cases it was near impossible to accelerate without making at least some boost) but at cruise, it was defo closed. (Which made it fucking amazing on gas on a long run. (Compared to the 32/36 it replaced) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 Is that port on the block the vacuum advance feed nipple? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 One is vacuum and the other is ported vacuum I believe It's in the 'has vacuum all the time' hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 Venturing vacuum vs manifold vacuum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopez Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 Hiya, Saw this on the weekend at Morrinsville, looks awesome, you've done a great job on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 Thanks! Pretty good turnout considering the weather, there was some cool cars there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 Do you watch the Skid Factory? Their latest video was dealing with a turbo 1UZ, not sure if any of that can transfer across to your setup or not. That had pretty hefty cooling in it but it still got too hot. Just thought i'd mention it in case you don't watch them anyway. It might give you some ideas. I know the setup is pretty different, but perhaps something will cross over and help if cooling becomes a problem down the road. Cars looking gooood, gotta be happy to have it on the road. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 Is the alt one that can wizz over either way? If not is it spinning the correct way? Does it have a decent earth to block? Paint on engine mount might be an issue? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 its Nick's fault. i dont know how but its Nick's fault. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 11 hours ago, RXFORD said: Is the alt one that can wizz over either way? If not is it spinning the correct way? Does it have a decent earth to block? Paint on engine mount might be an issue? this was my first thought too. heaps of alternators have the belt kinda do like a reverse loop around them to get max wrap/traction, but then the pully spins reverse to the crank. edit - bonus points for random internet diagram including a blower. thats the problem Clint, you need to install a supercharger for it to charge. its all in the name, always has been! 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tele29 Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 So do you reckon it was a bad batch of cable or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 Must be. It's not new cable, I got given a lot of welding cable many years ago, I think this is the third car I've done with it The cable isn't damaged or squashed or anything so it must just be bung inside 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 Stupid question, does it need an exciter wire? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 Yes, it has one , in which I have tried 1w, 3w, and 5w bulbs Also has a battery sense wire which runs all the way to the battery on a separate wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 I wonder if it's a winding issue which is only apparent when belt tension is applied. I'm assuming the bench test is driven directly on the front.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bearded Baldy Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 Stupid question. If it works on the bench but not the car, have you tried testing it with the revs up at 2.5k ish. Could be something stupid like the pulley size is too big, so at idle speeds it spins too slow. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.