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Random slightly cool stuff you built but not worth its own thread, thread


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Yep, goes in the tailstock drill chuck, it's free to move on the arbor.

Back half takes 2" dies, front half takes 1" dies. I still need to make adapters for 13/16", 1.3" and 1.5", but the cost of dies is so crazy that I probably won't make them until I need to.

I had a test hoon with it earlier, it cuts like 80 mm of M8 thread in about 10 seconds. Single point threading that length would take me forever and probably turn to shit due to part deflection.

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On 05/07/2020 at 17:14, ajg193 said:

Modified and rebuilt a toyota k series electronic distributor for a friend today.

His engine is rather modified, so he doesn't use vacuum advance. I just made a plug with an arm on it, locking vacuum advance. 

It's based on a commercial engine 5k distributor so has a bearing instead of a bushing, this should make it more reliable. 

Some measurements indicate it should give 24 crankshaft degrees of mechanical advance at top end - so he should be good if he sets base timing at around 10 or 11

Yay for Milty!

 

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Wanted a sleeping bag for hunting kit

 

Have plenty of down stuff. However I would prefer to use a synthetic bag for this for ease of cleaning when after being in stinking pack with blood and guts, being wet, being cheap and easy to abuse in bivvys.

 

Got a basic used synthetic bag, quadrofill, not terrible insulation, but one of the heavier options.

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833g with stuff sack. Rated to 8C whatever that means in real life.

 

S.o.a.b didn't mention all the seams were fucked. But whatever I guess, I'm Gona cut it up

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I'm turning it into an insulation on top only bag like my macpac pinnacle and Neve

First step. Sew up the foot box. Keeping insulation from the ankles down all around

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Open the inner seam up all the way, unstitch all the bottom insulation and remove it.

 

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IMG_20200707_132619.thumb.jpg.b6e45af7e1dfc21bfd13938d1e16a9e3.jpg

 

Sew baffles in the top. I sewed right through the two layers to hold the insulation in place. This is not "the best" way to do it for max insulation, but it's quick.

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Sew all the seams up

 

Cut out all the unneeded tags and bits

Shorten the zip to about 1/3

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 20/07/2020 at 08:07, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

I may have posted this before, but tidying up over the weekend I found some of the stuff my Graddad gave me before he died. He served in the Pacific in WW2, fighting alongside the US Marines, then I think he was wounded and came home, after seeing some pretty bad things (he swore never to own a Japanese car). This knife is one of the objects he made/modified, a US marine fighting knife with the handle he made out of perspex from shot down Japanese planes...
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I always thought it was a Ka-Bar (Knife attachment, Browning automatic rifle) but the markings show it was the earlier PAL model RH-36, made under licence to equip US troops...
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Some Barrying tells me "The PAL was one of the most used 'commercial' knives during WW2. Before the intoduction of the Ka-bar there was a serious lack of fighting/utility knives and many marines purchased commercial hunting knives to overcome this shortage until the PAL-36 was supplied. Originally the knife was designed by Remington and when their cutlery deartment was bought by PAL they kept the original dsignation RH-36 (Remington Hunting, Blade type 3, Blade length 6")..."

Some of his campaign stuff, should get this framed really...
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Vella Lavella! been there when pretty young, remember the parents went on a tour to some skull caves because cannibilism etc. beautiful place. 

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Oh man i love history like this.

The stories attached to those items makes them absolutely priceless- it just blows my mind thinking about where they have been, what they have seen and what they actually represent.

Fuckin imagine raiding a downed plane for plexiglass so you could make a sweet knife handle!!! 

And makes me so deeply sad that so many of these chaps go without passing on their stories.

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