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Posted

You should be able to get some hubcentric rings to suit the wheels and diff. You get some made.

Thanks for your input mate. love your Lada thread, when are we going to see the twin cam Fiat transplant?

 

I think I have 3 options; make a thin hubcentric spacer, make a hubcentric bush that fits in the middle of each wheel or simply run them 'as is", as many cars have and still do.

 

I've recently upgraded my little old bench Myford to a 10" Emco lathe so it's easy to turn up either spacers or bushes.

  • Like 1
Posted

I reckon it should be illegal to not have your wheels hubcentric. Just make some rings or spacers.

It is, you'd never get a cert without hubcentric adapters or similar

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Posted

It is, you'd never get a cert without hubcentric adapters or similar

Apparently not so; it looks like only spacers or adapters are required to be wheel/hub-centric, i.e. there is no requirement for a wheel to have a hubcentric fit on the hub.

 

 

"Rob

July 19, 2015 at 10:31 pm

I want to fit a set of wheels which are perfectly compatible in size, width & offset – however the centre bore size of the wheels is 57mm & the car has only 54mm centre hub size. Is that 3mm “gap” legal? Do I have to fit some sort of ring to fill in the gap?

johnbrett

July 20, 2015 at 1:39 pm

Hi Rob- the wheel needs to be centered on the hub, but if there are no spacers fitted, the tapered wheel nuts center in the tapered holes in the wheels and serve that function. If spacers are fitted, this introduces bending loads on the wheel studs, so then a centering ring is needed. So the answer is- if there are no spacers fitted, a centering ring is not required. Hope this helps, John"

 

(Copy and pasted from http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/ )

 

Interesting debate, at this stage I'm erring towards turning up alloy "locator rings' if there's enough internal radius on the rims center bore to keep them in place.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just caught up with reading the thread and its been very enjoyable!!! I bet that like us here reading it you are very glad you took photos of it all those years ago. Nowadays with every dog and his man having a camera on their phone its almost a case of too many photos (at least of cats..) but I look back to when I was getting into cars when digital cameras were not about and I wish I had taken more photos. But at $20-25 to get a film developed it was an expensive thing.

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Posted

It is, you'd never get a cert without hubcentric adapters or similar

Not quite, only needed when using spacers.

Edit: what sr2 said in the next post.

  • Like 1
Posted

oh hey, I know you!

Who...me.....that incident with the vaseline, the wet suit and the tethered goat was nothing more than a nasty malicious rumor! 

(Ducks for cover!).

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I heard you like vices yo - so you put a vice in a vice - that's some inception shit man. LOL

 

(PS - vice looks SWEET in resplendent blue)  I am also liking where you are going with triple carbs. 

 

post-18053-0-85383600-1443692176.jpg

  • 3 months later...
Posted

How much soda do you tend to put in per litres?

 

Just a little 6v/12v charger I presume? 

 

do tell more, quite interesting indeed!

Posted

How much soda do you tend to put in per litres?

 

Just a little 6v/12v charger I presume? 

 

do tell more, quite interesting indeed!

I use approx 1 teaspoon per 2 litres of water, using a stronger solution has little or no improved effect.

The charger is one of my old-school "rescues", it has the original transformer but I replaced the rectifying  circuit with a Jaycar unit, it's capable of around 6 amps at 13.5 volts (ish!). The max I've got out of it removing rust is around 4.5 amps.

You end up with a black film where the rust was but it's easily removed with a wire brush or wire wool or you can just paint over it with an etch primer. The sacrificial scrap steel you connect the +ve to doesn't last long and ends up plated with rusty crud.

I think the advantage electrolysis has over phosphoric based treatments is that it's less invasive i.e. you don't need to worry about damage to threads and machined surfaces. 

Have a play with it and let us know what you think.

Posted

Apparently not so; it looks like only spacers or adapters are required to be wheel/hub-centric, i.e. there is no requirement for a wheel to have a hubcentric fit on the hub.

 

 

"Rob

July 19, 2015 at 10:31 pm

I want to fit a set of wheels which are perfectly compatible in size, width & offset – however the centre bore size of the wheels is 57mm & the car has only 54mm centre hub size. Is that 3mm “gap” legal? Do I have to fit some sort of ring to fill in the gap?

johnbrett

July 20, 2015 at 1:39 pm

Hi Rob- the wheel needs to be centered on the hub, but if there are no spacers fitted, the tapered wheel nuts center in the tapered holes in the wheels and serve that function. If spacers are fitted, this introduces bending loads on the wheel studs, so then a centering ring is needed. So the answer is- if there are no spacers fitted, a centering ring is not required. Hope this helps, John"

 

(Copy and pasted from http://lowvolumevehicle.co.nz/2012/02/wheel-spacers-faqs/ )

 

Interesting debate, at this stage I'm erring towards turning up alloy "locator rings' if there's enough internal radius on the rims center bore to keep them in place.

John...Brett ????????
Posted

John...Brett ????????

Who's John Brett?

Forgive me if I'm missing the obvious but after living through the 70's I'm a little slow. (They say if you can't remember the 70's you weren't there, I know what they mean!).

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