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'80S KID Part II: Ed's AW11 SC chit-chat


0R10N
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8 hours ago, 0R10N said:

Nice score! I did wonder where the supercharged one from Ohaupo ended up, have you put it back on the road? Sounds like it didn't need all that much to get running again. I actually prefer the less garish and more streamlined interior of the later (Mk1a) AW11, but the extremely brash looking Recaros were too good not to install, because, hey, '80s car :)

Unfortunately I received a bit more bad news about the AW this morning, and a project thread update will be along in due course to elaborate.

In the meantime however - does anyone know how much work a SC14 upgrade would entail, and how well would the factory ECU cope with it? How about a SC12 from the later 4A-GZE with the smaller pulley?

I broke an SC12 and replace it with the later version on my AW. I did notice a mild difference, at least compared to the worn out SC12. The motor still ran just fine. I don't know how Toyota did it but that ECU could run anything. 8:1 block + bigport head, 8.9:1 block + smallport head, early or late SC12, 8psi crank pulley, 14 psi crank pulley, T25 turbo, I tried them all and the car still drove fast and smoothly. Until it broke a ring-land while running NA in between turbo experiments...

Never tried an SC14.

Although smooth was relative at age 20, if it got sideways and pushed me back in the seat I was happy :)

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Those accessory belts would have gone for another 50,000 km. You should have seen the alternator belt on my old FX-GT, it was fucked from the day I got the car but I couldn't get the P/S belt off without excessive butchery due to previous butchery so I just left it on and did 60,000 km before selling the  car.

As for the clutch, if the engine is out of the hole on those cars it is silly to not replace the clutch unless it is virtually brand new as it is a huge job to get to it. A TGP clutch kit would probably be about $150?

Hopefully it will be back up and running soon, I like your car.

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Definitely. But I've been accused of needlessly prioritizing one car over another before. This seems like the perfect opportunity to take a step back, hide the AW away for a while and focus on one of the other vehicles languishing in the garage.

There's also a more selfish reason - I don't want to spend a large sum of money on it right now :) Having to replace the cambelt and drive belts 80,000km earlier than I'd envisaged was already starting to put it firmly into mothball territory. Then the clutch, now the bearings, etc, tipped it over the threshold.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
2 hours ago, Firetruck said:

Not gonna put in any gofast bits while it's open? Cams etc? Obviously ya can't go too extreme with the factory computer but everyone loves a lumpy cam.

It's gonna be lush with a brand new engine though. Good work.

Set of 193b's sitting in my wardrobe doing nothing at all that would surely be lush.

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Yeah, I wasn't going to look at the car again for another 9-12 months, but peer pressure (and a repair quote that came in well under what I initially thought) made me do it.

Engine builder recommended 1.1mm or thicker headgasket so will see what Toyota can supply.

The crank from the donor AE101 GZE was in better condition, so ended up using it, and the rods from that motor instead.

On 23/07/2017 at 16:04, Snoozin said:

Set of 193b's sitting in my wardrobe doing nothing at all that would surely be lush.

Hmmmmm. Guessing these are N/A suited? Let me do some research and get back to you Richy.

@Firetruck I don't really want to go too extreme to be honest, keen on having a tidy looking car externally with a couple of small mods to give it more shove. I keep telling myself (maybe poorly judged) that if I wanted to build a foooooly siiiiick MR2 I should have started with a rusty high-km $3000 shell instead of a low-km tidy $12,000 one out of Japan, and then it would be ripe to chuck in a 7A-GTE and Link. As it stands, it still feels a bit sacrilegious going down the path I already have...

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  • 2 weeks later...

large N/A cams are a-ok, just need to dial in some more lobe separation by advancing the inlet a few degrees - which is legit as you have boost you can open the inlet sooner and by doing so reduce the overlap where inlet charge gets blown through to the exhaust. and being supercharged you still have bundles of torque so shifting the powerband higher in the rev range doesn't have anywhere near the negative effects on driveability of putting the same wildness of cams in an n/a motor

am sure mr breeze can chime in with a more precise suggestion of cam timing to try if the cam specs are available.

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