mjrstar Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 Helped a mate make his tiny house, when you plan your cutouts if you care what it looks like see if you can terminate the cut on the same part of the profile on each side. We use shs welded in for framing windows and doors etc. It all went pretty smoothly except for him being the most accident prone person on the planet. Kept him clear of power tools, welder etc and he fell off the ladder whilst brush painting the frames after I had welded them in. His forehead no match vs the corner of the floor. Cue trip to A&E and some explaining to his wife. 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 Have done alot of mods with windows, doors, ranchsliders etc but never cut it completely apart to lift height. Once you get a 9" grinder, life is infinately easier. do not waste your time with smaller. Plasma works well if you have it available with decent amps but I find large cut off discs easier for long straight lines when cant use a guide bar due to the profile. As above, use RHS 50x25 as frames for windows / doors as the 50mm size gives good width to sit in and weld against where the frame needs to be straight and the wall itself has a dent/wobble. it is pretty amazing when cutting a few meters out the side how much that whole panels flaps around. Have tried angle iron but more of a hassle. When cutting, dont cut right to the cnr leave 5mm each side on at least the upper cnrs so it holds the panel up and doesnt flap around, then when you have someone to hold it and not drop down just cut those little tabs left easily. they become quite heavy so be prepared. if you plan the cuts well you can use to cover over dented sections or patch untidy sections on the wall to make it look pretty on outside if you arent cladding it. considered doing similar, joining two together but the weight and not ease of moving them around easily that closely to perfect joins side by side, has hindered it going further. Really easy to brace the roof better to hold it up but yeah. Those canvas things that go between the two containers end up way cheaper. Slab 40k? my 108m2 shed floor i getting quotes for is between 8 and 12k. so much be a big concrete pad! excuse the poo weld, in terms of using the RHS to frame like so so gives good straight edge for doors windows to butt agaisnt.. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted June 27 Share Posted June 27 7 hours ago, 440bbm said: Slab 40k? my 108m2 shed floor i getting quotes for is between 8 and 12k. so much be a big concrete pad! The slab would be about 20x5m so probably about the same area as yours although I was allowing 10mm plus depth, at least in one patch where I'd want to put up my hoist. I pulled 40k out of my ass, good to hear it can be done much cheaper, we already have compacted gravel on the site so that probably helps too. But given that I already have the containers, that 8-12k money for the slab would probably cover the costs for getting them gutted and joined, and of course they already come with a floor! Thought about the canvas archgola thing but I've only got a 6x20 site to play with. It's basically going to be a lean-to on the side of the workshop, I already pay lease on the gravel patch so kinda dumb to do nothing with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted June 27 Share Posted June 27 What @440bbm did is identical to what i've done, 50x50rhs to frame out cutouts then its just regular building techniques. +all the numbers for be effin careful knocking out the windows, its both heavier and floppier than you expect, much like chopping down an old pine, just plan the cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted June 27 Share Posted June 27 3 hours ago, gibbon said: The slab would be about 20x5m so probably about the same area as yours although I was allowing 10mm plus depth, at least in one patch where I'd want to put up my hoist. I pulled 40k out of my ass, good to hear it can be done much cheaper, we already have compacted gravel on the site so that probably helps too. But given that I already have the containers, that 8-12k money for the slab would probably cover the costs for getting them gutted and joined, and of course they already come with a floor! Thought about the canvas archgola thing but I've only got a 6x20 site to play with. It's basically going to be a lean-to on the side of the workshop, I already pay lease on the gravel patch so kinda dumb to do nothing with it i hear you. But. Containers do suck in a number of ways. they are hard to affix too with still being 'sealed' from exterior factors. they sweat like a cuuuuuuuuunt so you really need to have a massive whirly bird and good flow through in and out to stop the moisture issues. temperature in a container blows for painting too. spose the limiting factor for you is the lack of space to spread them apart so not really discussion point anyways. yes have been working on 100mm thick and 150mm for a 4m wide x 2m area under the hoist too. id love to do it too, since ive spent sooo many hour having all the same thoughts. still be a fuck load cheaper than anything that is permanent ( if you do it in a manner that can be de-constructed if the lease of the are becomes non-viable to continue on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 change of subject, I've just finished replacing our 90 year old American compressor with a brand new Italian one. Got to the wiring and much like a guy at his first orgy I have got no idea what's supposed to go where 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 wires and shit, plz help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 24 minutes ago, gibbon said: wires and shit, plz help Single phase or three phase? Usual single phase colours are here Electrical Wiring Colours - A Complete Guide (rs-online.com) Three phase? I dunno, on the old wiring red/white/blue would be the three phase feeds and green the earth. Any instructions with the new hotness / get a professional. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 Its all three phase... there was a manual with the new one but books are for dorks. perhaps I should read it (like a nerd) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 Connect the earth on, then connect up the other 3 any which way which takes your fancy. If it turns backwards swap any 2 (but not the earth ) / not an electrician, this not advice etc.. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 doesnt it depend if its DOL or star? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 I'm going to start bonging wires together as soon as I r finished this coffee so I hope not. the old motor had a triangle on the dataplate so delta I guess 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 Yip depends on the size of the motor as the load is huge with DOL so depending on your available capacity and fuse setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 compressor ran good, except it seemed to be rigged to cut out at some stratospheric PSI. manual was in italian so I was trying to look up the pressure adjustment and it was like a night at the opera. got there in the end though 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 10 Share Posted July 10 Hi all, What would be the best product for gluing in a stainless window surround/runner into a van sliding door. Currently my door has a fixed window with a basic rubber seal which can easily be removed. This is not glued in. The one I took it out of a van at pickapart is factory fitment and it had some super strong black silicon stuff holding it in. I'm assuming similar to the stuff they bond windscreens in with. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 10 Share Posted July 10 39 minutes ago, Goat said: Hi all, What would be the best product for gluing in a stainless window surround/runner into a van sliding door. Currently my door has a fixed window with a basic rubber seal which can easily be removed. This is not glued in. The one I took it out of a van at pickapart is factory fitment and it had some super strong black silicon stuff holding it in. I'm assuming similar to the stuff they bond windscreens in with. Cheers Yeah that or panel bond 3m also make badge and trim adhesive which would work, but a tube of screen goo is probably easier and cheaper to get 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 sika 221 bonds MINT to alloy and s/s to each other and to other materials like plastic and fiberglass. and avgas is the best cleaner to remove the excess mess LOL. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 Sika make a bunch of badass sealants I think i used 295uv for a job and the adhesion was spectacular. I figure if it's good enough to make a super yacht not sink it'd do for my POS car. / would trade again. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 I concur. Ive used sika adhesives that make shit to blanket look like shit off a shiney shovel..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted July 12 Share Posted July 12 Dose anyone know anything about Buick Dynaflow transmissions? This one seems to be stuck in L. I put it in D and its reving it's nuts off, car has been sitting for 40+ years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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