Roman Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 My long 4-2 stainless primaries are fully wrapped, have been for ages and no sign of cracking / corrosion / etc etc. And they've had some pretty hefty high rpm beat downs and every other driving scenario. On a previous engine I had stainless extractors wrapped as well, the only evidence of the wrap being there was when you took it off and it looked brand new underneath the wrap and shit everywhere else. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 i have also heard stories of thermal fatigue on wrapped pipes, the wrap keeps the heat in and the pipes crack/corrode quickly. again i have no proof of that but that was the reason i went with the HPC over a wrap i can confirm that my pipes are corroding under the wrap (real asbestos i believe) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 Factory Altezza exhausts are heat wrapped. They're bukakk'd with chopped strand sort of stuff and then clamped between two stainless steel shells that surround the 2-1 section. Like top set in this pic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Can confirm that heat wrap causes thermal fatigue. My old 3sge townace had issues with this, the extractors were made out of the factory ones chopped up to suit rwd and pieces of exhaust pipe which may have been part of the issue 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Could have also been incorrect weld filler material or stresses introduced during modifications Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 Yea this is just causation, the manifold was probably not strong enough for what was hanging off it, lots of shittly made exhausts just flap around off the headers instead of their mounts. Some shitty wrap material and if cars that sit around may trap moisture? I would take a pepsi challenge that some well made mild steel headers (enough strength/designed for application), prepped and painted with good shit and wrapped with something that wont hold water will last ages. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 I see some interesting designs for people cooling their brake rotors ie. randomly pointing a pipe into the wheel well from a randomly selected part of the front of the car. A vented disc works as a centrifugal fan so air flows from the centre outwards. Often I see people trying to blow air back in from the inside. Much better is when there's a cover plate that pressurises the inner side of the vents. Which is unfortunate on my case as the "inner" part of the vent (which you'd want to blow the air into) faces my wheel so there's no easy way to run a pipe to it. Time to run a vaccum line around the wheel well area to my datalogger and see what's going on. Hopefully running some ducting will make my pads last a bit longer, currently works out to about $100 on brake pads per trackday. The guys with the big heavy cars with lots of HP must have some horrific expenses on consumables! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 there was a kit from jaycar that killed/cut distributor pulses a while back, was quite simple. And here it is http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Kits,-Science-%26-Learning/Electronic-Project-Kits/Automotive/KIT---CAR-REV-LIMITER-GEAR-SHIFT-04-99/p/KC5265 I've made this (and ignition cut circuit) doesn't work will on points as is needs the points trigger for a romantic input and when it engages rev limit it feeds into itself and revs go silly. Did do a few pops/bangs though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Hopefully running some ducting will make my pads last a bit longer, currently works out to about $100 on brake pads per trackday. The guys with the big heavy cars with lots of HP must have some horrific expenses on consumables! They buy good pads. Such as carbotech's which last surprisingly well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 What has a 17" three spoke steering wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Aliexpress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 I want to cut the rim off and chuck away the rest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 What has a 17" three spoke steering wheel? morris mionor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 is actually 16.5 inch, is that close enough 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 you could get a slab of some nice wood and make the rim if thats what you are doing tho 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 I see some interesting designs for people cooling their brake rotors ie. randomly pointing a pipe into the wheel well from a randomly selected part of the front of the car. A vented disc works as a centrifugal fan so air flows from the centre outwards. Often I see people trying to blow air back in from the inside. Much better is when there's a cover plate that pressurises the inner side of the vents. Which is unfortunate on my case as the "inner" part of the vent (which you'd want to blow the air into) faces my wheel so there's no easy way to run a pipe to it. Time to run a vaccum line around the wheel well area to my datalogger and see what's going on. Hopefully running some ducting will make my pads last a bit longer, currently works out to about $100 on brake pads per trackday. The guys with the big heavy cars with lots of HP must have some horrific expenses on consumables! Do you know the operating temp range of the compound you're running and have you measured the brake temps to see where you are in comparison?? Yes incorrect temps can affect the wear rate but I wouldn't think that much, are you massively overheating the pads regularly? We can get a whole season out of a set of pads on a TL Falcon (1470 Kgs), we've got temp sensors which help alot and I just tune the ducting over the weekend to keep them in range we want... From my reading I think too low a brake pad temp can cause excessive wear and high disc abrasion (do not quote me on this, my memory is hazy at best) I high brake pad temp causes brake fade and then material fracturing, the V8 utes are underbraked and I basically have to manage fracturing brake pads all weekend. Are you seeing that? Also brake technique affects pad temperatures dramatically... Those are all of my cents, and my currency has a very poor exchange rate. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 5, 2016 Author Share Posted May 5, 2016 Thanks, not sure on brake temps but figuring out a way to measure is pretty high on my list. I've got an IR gun but it's hard to know peak temps if you're only measuring when you get back in the pits after a cooldown lap. I've been doing some joogles and I see there's a fairly popular sensor that goes to 1000cc and outputs pwm relating to temperature, so could wire some of those in. Or even better have some tire temp sensors as well and wire it all up as can/bus so I've still got inputs and outputs left.I definitely agree that getting some data about the actual problem is the first step before "fixing" it.I dont get brake fade at all, just high wear rates.My rear brakes havent gone through a set of pads at all yet, but front brakes do most of the work and a set of pads lasts about 4 trackdays.Keeping in mind that this isnt a dedicated race car with race pads, as per usual I'm trying to tip toe through that middle ground and keep a drivable car on the street. (Using Ferodo DS2200) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hop Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Before you go balls deep and wire up sensors etc there are special paints you can apply to the disc and it will change colour when you reach that temperature. I am not sure where you source it but we used to have three different patches (600 700 800 degree C or whatever) on the disc and you can quickly see where the temp got to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Ferodos are renowned for having a ridiculously high wear rate. I ran a set of OMP Racing Front Pads and got 2 winter series and numerous track days and twilight sessions out of them. Lasted the same length of time as a set of tyres... Rear pads basically didn't wear at all... I don't think you have a temp issue, I would recommend a change of pad compound... I am about to trial a full set of EBC yellows, heard both good and bad things about them... But seriously Ferodos are overrated as shit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 What has a 17" three spoke steering wheel? Do you need one? i can grab a few for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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