slipsittin Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 Got an old tach im wanting to install. It only has a positive and negative input. What to I tee them into to make it work? You may need to put a pic up first to clarify, but most likely the negitive one will go to the negitive (or distributor) side of the coil. The plus will go to an ignition feed, but usually there would be an earth of some kind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 Perhaps earths to the case via a screw or mounting terminal? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipsittin Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Perhaps earths to the case via a screw or mounting terminal? Yeah I was thinking that, but have never seen one like it. Â Any brand on it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipsittin Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Yup I have the machine and a selection of o rings so flushing ain't an issue. Otherwise maybe I'll raid a bunch of crap from a wreck and try horey it in. Do you have an aircon rig? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Its a Speedwell model like this    Has 12v 6cyl on the face  Just 2 wires off the back of its circuit board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 I've set the tappets in my escort/crossflow and I feel they are sweet, but the engine still makes a bad ticking noise, what are the potential options for the cause?  My initial thoughts with the last cam fitted was a worn down lobe and that was proven correct, but the sound persists and is possibly getting slowly worse. Sound isnt audible on decel but is pretty much everywhere else  current thoughts are worn rocker or rocker shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Check for an exhaust leak around the manifold. This can often sound like a tappety noise. Get a length of hose about a meter long, hold one end up to your ear and use it like a stethoscope. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hop Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Not a big poster but got a question rolling around atm. Â Upgrading to new style injectors on a megasquirted project, lower plenum and fuel rails all have enough meat to bore out. Old style injectors have a 11mm oring new bosch ev14's have 14mm both ends, What size should I be drilling the bosses to ensure a good seal? 13.9 13.5? Is there a rule of thumb? Also mentioned it to a workmate he said it would be best practice to do it with an end mill because a drill bit will create a tapered hole, is this correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 13.5mm then careful tidy up of the surface with scotchbright or fine sandpaper seems to work ok, at least on the fuel rail end. definitely err on the small side. I wouldnt go much larger as remember the hole always ends up larger than the drill bit. proper thing would be to ream to size which will get it rounder too but really if you err on the tight side and a the surface finish is OK the o ring will seal it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 It is possible to buy special drillbits for making nice injector seats. From memory they are ground down to give a flat bottom seat and to locate the seat squarely. I'd use a collet or something on the drillbit too so that each hole is exactly the same depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 This may or may not be helpful. http://www.rossmachineracing.com/injectortool.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Yup as Tom said 13.5 works good, I used some 400 grit in a bit of 6mm rod with a slit cut in the end in a hand drill to get the surface finish good, other than that it worked sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hop Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Sweet will try and get this underway! After looking at a few videos im hoping the better spray pattern and the injectors being 20 years newer will make a difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 I'm pretty sure I don't have an exhaust leak. But the tapping is so powerful that with a stethoscope I can't define where it is because it's everywhere. maybe I'll try run engine with tappets cover off 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Â when you were leaving burgermeat the other night, it sounded a bit like a piston/ rod knock to me. because of the fact it goes away when its not loaded ie on decel. a tappet or valvetrain noise should be there all the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Tbh that noise has probably been there since the engine was rebuilt/had new bearings fitted. I just thought it was tappets for ages so didn't consider bearings. Jeez I really don't want to have to pull motor out again though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Wrong thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 without taking engine out, what are some tricks I can use to diagnose this problem better. I tried the hose around the exhaust trick but didnt hear anything, nor did I feel any air movement which I have previously felt when exhaust headers have been cracked/badly sealing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 actually I tried taking leads off one at a time last night to see if the knock dissappeared, but it stayed exactly the same. Only noticable thing was cyl 1 the engine didnt start running rough as soon as plug was pulled, but was still a bit rough when throttle opened. Whereas cyl 2-4 the engine starting running rough as soon as I took the plug out, and then they were all a bit rough when throttle opened  Since I have also taken the engine out multiple times recently I have not noticed a build up of filings nor have I noticed a decrease in oil pressure which is what I would see if a bearing was gone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Engine was done by a reconditioner so unsure of any were different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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