Steelies Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 i like all of this. also, i should post some pics of bubbling setups at work. they look like shit from the movies, all twisty pipes and spirals and bubbles how bout i fill a villiers tank with argon, WOT and blow co2 down the throat..? the resulting gas mix will be unburnt and clad in tweed. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 OK, so I was fucking around trying to fix my silly 110 and then the welder decided it didn't want to weld anymore. If you try it just very lightly sparks the wire against anything, be it the earth clamp or whatever and doesn't have enough power/connection (I guess) to even melt the wire. Where should I be looking to remedy this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Check your earth clamp Edit. Check the wires not frayed and black where it enters the crimps or clamp Also wiggle your switches and adjusting knobs in case they are dirty and lost contact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Pretty sure he'd have noticed if it were falling off. Look at the innards and see what's cooked. Although Brick might have a point, check the other end of the earth cable too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Usually when the leads are failing they get super hot and eventually melt through with a crack and sizzle. Obvious with a tig but maybe while mig welding you may not notice. Only tiny sparks sounds like there's as good as no earth circuit. I did this one the other day. Gave me a good fright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 KY check the wire feeder. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 To what end? It's feeding wire fine, it keeps pumping it out just whatever that wire contacts is like a weak as shit sparkler. I checked the plug and clamp end of the earth cable but I'll double check the clamp again tomorrow. I have a feeling I have to go inside the thing... or buy another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 what/how were you welding the last time you used it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 1st thing earth clamp as said, including the connection at the welder end of the cable inside of the welder. second is the trigger button although the wire feed is working so less likely. then welder end of the button circuit. maybe check the power cord too if you went hard at some point and its got a shit codr it could be cooked or you had it next to one of your lines at some point and accidentally cut the insulation then after that something be fritz in the magic smoke containing parts and you need a bearded sparky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 It's just been buzzing panel steel at fuck-all amperage and not laying beads, just tacks. So really, it's been pretty lightly used by all accounts. Anyway, as per the spam thread, I took it apart and then twiddled with things and it started working again only after I maxed out the amperage but then I could dial it down again after that. So.. at the moment it's OK. Or at least it was the last time I used it. Will find out again this week/end. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Is this the right thread to ask about what to do if someone loaded a trailer with too much and bent the axle? Round mild steel tube. Not keen on flipping the axle and loading up the weight to see if the camber corrects itself nor fitting spacers and pretending it's supposed to be that way. A press and some beefy channel maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 How much weight did they put on that trailer? Doesn't sound quite right to me. I vote buying stubs and tube off trademe then making a new one. Pretty easy and shouldn't cost much 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haurangi Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 I've read it in a build thread somewhere, but cbf looking so spam. When it comes to steering column to rack, how many UJ's can you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Genuine question - why do people refer to Schedule 40/80 etc when you could just say I need 8 x 70mm lengths of 40mm ID and 6mm wall.Oh man. In anti-ASME China, they do this. It's so frustrating. All the pipes are like 63x4.55 mm but the fittings are still DN50 Sch 40 etc so it's so hard to know at a glance if they match. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 chur. lolo every bit of advice i get is a polar opposite to the last, guess i stop when the daisy runs out of petals and that's the verdict speno, was just wondering if anybody can see i'm doing something silly in thinking i get half the amount of gas with a CO2 fill than i do with argoshield. here in welly, care of supagas, co2 fill $50 plus gst argoshield $120 plus if someones gona tell me 'thats too expensive jees mate what are you up to' try getting an owner bottle filled in Wgtn with no hookups and see how you go. yes, i have been raging over this. the supagas dealer changes quicker than i can use a bottle of gas! Has the price of Argon plummeted in the last year or so? Allegedly they can make it in NZ now, whereas it previously had to be imported. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 tube benders jmr model 32 pro tools 105 JD2 model 3 m-tech knockoffs of model 3 and 32 keen, even look simple enough to copy if you could be bothered, which i cannot die sets fro these things are spendy. cardwells do 105 dies for $500 each on the old TM, gah m-tech seem to do the cheaper die sets at like $150 US but posting solid steel to NZ may not be very efficient etc anyone had experience with these types of benders, or found part/die suppliers in NZ and so on? GO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Has the price of Argon plummeted in the last year or so? Allegedly they can make it in NZ now, whereas it previously had to be imported. yep just had my bottle filled, argon is cheaper than shield gas! d size argon on our work account at BOC is like $40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 I have used Tom's pro tools 105 one and I can confirm it is legit, I have nothing o compare it to though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 I want to buy a single dolly for panel beating, which one would use guys recommend apparently one of the below hammer types is the best general panel beating hammer http://www.toolandindustrial.co.nz/shop/item.aspx/toptul-hammer-curved-finishing/16140/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 http://www.thetoyshop.co.nz/laser-tools-product/utility-dolly?i=2996&c=805 or http://www.thetoyshop.co.nz/laser-tools-product/general-purpose-dolly?i=2999&c=805 ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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