Vintage Grumble Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Have got a low mount manifold for you Thanks for the offer darl, but I got a factory spec one off TM, should be here tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr1600 Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Thanks for the offer darl, but I got a factory spec one off TM, should be here tomorrow. but its a masterpiece 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Vintage Grumble Posted November 17, 2014 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 17, 2014 I've done stuff all on this, due to painting the house, and trying to finish the velo bike, but I have collected a few parts and will get stuck into it next week! Anyways, the fuel pump was loud as hell, so thought I had better check the install. I dropped the tank and discovered that they had cut a hole in said tank, and just pushed the plastic S14 cradle in, then siliconed around it. But it got better, they had just slapped the whole S14 set up in, and let it do its own thing. The pump was just laying on the bottom of the tank, hanging off the rubber hose, so it could slide around making scratch angels on the bottom of the tank. The steel support was also just swimming around in there, with its sharp edges cutting into the wiring. Sweet. I've set the pump up on the cradle from my ill fated AE101, and then cut out a bit of steel that I will weld to the tank, for the cradle to bolt to. It all worked out pretty well, pump fitted cradle, cradle was correct length, i'm just missing the plug from the loom of the AE101 that goes into the cradle for the pump. Got new fuel line malarkey, A new boot for the gear box, to stop oil spraying out everywhere (Thanks Ben, just remembered I need to pay you for that, sorry) I got a nice factory manifold, so the huge waste gate can piss off, 3" Chinese down pipe showed up, glad I got it, would have been a dick to make. Also heat wrap to try and keep heat out of brake lines, And finally the new turbo showed up, woooo so pretty, and quite a bit bigger then the old one. From everything i've read, it should make at least 250hp atw's on its std 15psi setting with everything else factory. I'll slap the wide band in to make sure everything's chur. Just need exhaust bits, and I have pretty much all the bits I need to finish it. Can't wait to get to work on it. Retards, VG. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Hi there, I need a bit of info kids, the internet has failed me/I failed the internet. With this here new fancy turbo thing, it has a few different banjo fittings, with different sized oil restrictor holes. How does one work out what size restrictor to use? Does it have something to do with it being ball bearing or bush spec? I have no idea, and can't find any info on it relating to this engine/turbo. Any help would be awesome. Regards, VG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_restrictor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 Hmmmmmmm so I don't need a restrictor (mines journal brg spec) UNLESS it starts blowing oil through the seals, ha. Oh well, will try the big fitting and see what happens. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 There is a key point in that link that needs to be reiterated. IF you have a sweet drain system (16mm+ id plus with minimal restrictions) then you may not need any form of restriction. But an orifice of sorts can be a good idea when you drain back is not max diameter spec. Just not tiny restrictor like a bb turbo needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 The factory drain is huge, its at least 16mm ID hose, and goes straight down into the sump, so sounds like I should be OK to try it non restricted. Thanks for the info chaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 I dun made the exhaust. 3" pipe with one hot dog, and one off set chambered resonator. The front section was as tight as your mum 30 years ago, as the pipe had to fit between the chassis and the torsion bar, but ol VG jammed it in there nicely. I also remade the down pipe, as the china spec one was way to tight of an angle, so just used the flange off it and bashed the shit out of the pipe till it was the stupid shape it needed to be. One step closer to completion. Regards, VG. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 4age hilux vs sr20 hilux at next os drags? 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share Posted December 25, 2014 I'd want the 4age to win tho, haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Posty mcpost. Insert text here. Subscribed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 WELL THINGS WERE GOING SWIMMINGLY, until I went to address one on my last problems. When the muppet's mounted the engine and gear box, they sat it too low, and the gear box sits on the sway bar. I thought I could just put spacers between the saddle and chassis and space the sway bar down a bit, but it turns out I cant go any more than about 6mm, as the sway bar then hits the torsion bars, gah. With the gear box as high as it can go, and 6mm spacers under the engine mounts, it has enough height clearance, but the engine/box needs to go forward like 5mm, which should be doable with a bit of hole slotting or some shiz? Pic is with box hard up, and engine spaced up 6mm, still needs to go forward. When I was thinking about the sway bar, I suddenly realized that the gearbox mount/mounting is less that desirable. Obviously the engine is mounted to the chassis, but they have mounted the box to the floor of the cab. Its kind of grotty to have the box mounted to the floor of the cab, and I assume the cert man wont be a fan, so I need to remount it to the hilux cross member. There looks to be a mounting point further back on the box, which is rite above the cross member, so that will be rippa, as long as its an acceptable mounting point. The mounting point in question is to the rite of the existing mount, should be ok eh? Thoughts on these problems? Retards, VG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Relocate the mount to the further away mounting point, it looks fairly in line with that factory chassis/crossmember. Modify or buy another of those that is more adequately spaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Yeh, I don't have much choice I guess. I can't reuse the mount that's there, but hope I can use a modified hilux one. Also, I assume they wouldn't cast that rear mounting point if it wasn't strong enough to support the weight, so should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I've seen a few other types of gbags which have that second mount but are actually designed as a mount for an exhaust hanger. The 5 speed datsun a series boxes are like this. Not saying it can't be used tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Ahh, that makes sense, I was wondering what it would have been for. I should me able to run some sort of support back from the main mount and join it with that back mount, may help disperse the load a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I would also be weary/think about it for 10 seconds then ignore it/ of mounting it at the back as like you are gettin gat it will put a fair bit of stress on the casing (compare to mounting it further like the factory spot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Yeh, I don't have much choice I guess. I can't reuse the mount that's there, but hope I can use a modified hilux one. Also, I assume they wouldn't cast that rear mounting point if it wasn't strong enough to support the weight, so should be good to go. Supporting the physical weight may not be a problem but you also want that mount to be taking some of the torque reaction otherwise the engine mounts will take an extra beating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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