UTERUS Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 my inlet ports bring all the boys to the yard 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 why do you guys run 044 bosch motor sport pumps ,that pushes 300 litres through your fuel rail per hr ,wouldnt it be better to use a 910 bosch motor sport pump that pushes 130 litres instead , on my race car i had to many problems with my fuel overheating from 75 lbs fuel pressure and pushing 300 litres per hr ,went back to the 130 litres per hr and has been fine ever since i personally picked it because i could get a china 044 for $40 and i'm a cheap cunt also figured a china version probably flows much much less anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Same here, mine worked great and never had any issues with fuel heating, probably the 75 psi that's doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Soooooo I have tried two seperate mounting locations for the sensor (one exposed into flow, one with just the tip flush with edge of exhaust pipe) Two seperate controllers (Innovate LC-2 and Aim LCU-one) And just burned through my 4th wideband sensor. (1x Bosch 4.2 which lasted the longest, 3x Bosch 4.9) Getting pretty frustrating! The only thing left that I can think of that's causing issues is having the wideband switch on with ignition key rather than when motor starts. The Aim LCUone has some good feedback data about the sensor, it isnt the heater circuit failing, and at WOT, the sensor isnt overheating either.So I'm starting to think that thermal shock is the next likely suspect down the chain. I saw this site: http://wbo2.com/lsu/cases.htm Time to chop the casings off my dud sensors and see what's going on. Rather than crappy information from the WB controller companies I also found a spec sheet for the Bosch sensor from Bosch. Here it notes to never have the sensor running prior to engine starting, so that's probably where I've been going wrong. As another kick in the balls, I bought the analog version of the LCUone because I thought Link couldnt read the wideband through CAN. Then that same day it turns up I was watching an HPacademy webinar where Andre says CAN is way better because you dont get voltage offsets etc giving inaccuracies, and that it works great on Link. Blargh! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Where is it installed and at what angle? How far down exhaust is it? Do you hsve an egt probe? Retarded timing will cause heat to be lost in the combustion chamber and wasted in the exhaust causing sensor to over heat and kill them very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 It's installed about a meter down stream from the head. The angle of the sensor in both cases is more than 10 degrees "up" as reccomended. I dont have an EGT probe but based on the measurements from the wideband controllers software, it isnt getting too hot.Every time it's failed it hasnt been related to WOT, it does seem more like first starts or cruising conditions. I've probably driven the car for all of 4-5 hours this time, and it's packed up. Lifespan has been getting shorter and shorter with each one. At this rate, soon they will have failed before they are even installed haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Wire wideband in with fuel pump, so its only running when the car is running. My ignition is powered by the same signal, not sure about yours, might be on the key, which is no good for the WB if you spend a lot of time twiddling things before firing up the car 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Back when the innovate forums existed and were good. the original guys who designed the innovate gear used to post alot. One of the things they always said was to delay turning the wideband by X amount seconds, after cold engine start up. X being i cant remember, 15-30 seconds possibly. pretty much all the sensors ive stuffed have been due to vibration, using exhaust probe in peoples crappily mounted exhausts. other than one that was junk right from the start. current one has lasted ages. delaying turn on time and only using in bung in collector & post turbo. at correct angles. i only use for tuning and remove though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 dave try a ego ntk wide band sensor,from ngk mines lasted for 6 years so far ,before this i was using the bosch 4.2 which lasted 3 months ,also std wide bands should go just after the 2 merge into 1 for your lambda bung ,also with the heater wide band ,we start car and let the wide band warm up ,,,should be up to it about 3 mins after car starts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hmmmm okay thanks. It's sounding more and more like I should have a dedicated relay and set a timer / engine temp conditions in the ECU to switch it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 rookie maybe 75 lbs on the 300 litres was over heating the fuel ,but you guys dont get hot days like we do where it could be 39 c by midday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 I run a LC2 with what ever bosh sensor that comes in the kit and that turns on with ignition ON. Because of this I'm pretty careful not to leave the key on and the car not running though, if I do I'll turn it off and leave it for a bit before starting the car. Have had the same sensor in the car for about two years now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Yeah that could very well be it. As often I'll have the ECU turned on first, (and the wideband...) to upload an updated tune or whatever for a few minutes. Then crank the car on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Ambient temp probably plays a part too, but I would say that pumping heaps of gas at "high" pressure would definitely heat soak it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 In my case it was the fuel rail getting heat soaked from the engine that raises fuel temps.Fuel comes up to the engine, gets heated by rail, then sent back to the tank slightly hotter than it started. Rinse repeat, and fuel temp creeps up and up especially if you're low on fuel. I left my fuel pump pumping at 80psi with a cold engine and from memory it took something like 1/2 an hour for the temp of the rail to raise by 5 degrees or so. Yet when turning the motor on, fuel rail temp rockets up. Since insulating the bolts that connect my rail to the engine with plastic washers, and insulating the rail itself. My fuel rail doenst get steaming hot anymore. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Theoretical question coming here: If I were to convert my Cb650 motorbike to fuel injection, could the existing slide carbs be used as throttle bodies? And could a micro squirt handle the revs? (12k redline I think) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Not sure about the revs, but yes you can use your carbs as throttles, you will just need to adapt a tps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Pretty sure microsquirt can do 15k? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 I'm sure their manual has the info, I'm too lazy. But you can probably adapt some real nice bike throttles off something EFI and do it way easier, I bought a few sets of bike trottles in the past off ebay (US) for a couple hundy each. They came with TPS and injectors mounted in them which if you can find some with the correct spacing (should be easy, you have some leeway with rubber runners etc) makes this a much simpler swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Im about to buy a car with a ecu tuned for a turbo engine, i plan to remove the turbo gear. Will the tune still be ok for n/a? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.