Roman Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Got one 2nd hand cheap v4 stinger Cheaper than landing an ms 2 kit Have done lots of old vehicle wiring and high powered RC car electronics but this efi stuff is new to me You'll be fine. If you have a factory loom there, use that or copy that. By which I mean, take note of the shielded wires and what they go to. Don't put any of these near coils etc. Apart from that, will be easier than those other tasks you've already done. Stinger v4 looks decent. Nice high res tables. If the tuning program is good you're onto a winner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Stingers are ok. Pretty basic but get job done. One thing that annoys me is theres no offset for your triggering. So if your doing something thats not standard its a pain to time. Other than that they work fine. Had to use an old laptop to do the last one i did with a serial port as my usb adaptor was really slow and painfull to commucate with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Ugh serial port! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Its the future. Embrace the serial port. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Also has semi fucked turbo and only half the intercooler piping. Il get it running n/a then boost later Keep it turb, so you can blaze up them back tyres son. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Back when the innovate forums existed and were good. the original guys who designed the innovate gear used to post alot. One of the things they always said was to delay turning the wideband by X amount seconds, after cold engine start up. X being i cant remember, 15-30 seconds possibly. I wired in a relay for the wideband now, that the ECU can trigger. So I've set the criteria for turning it on as: If engine runtime is greater than 3 seconds, switch it on. (Might make this 5 or 10 seconds perhaps) or If Engine temp is above 70 degrees and rpm is above 400, switch it on straight away. Fingers crossed it lasts this time! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 I'm in the process of tidying the loom for the stinger. It seems to have been run without a o2 sensor or air temp sensor, the plug doesn't have the pins in it for these wires. Will it use specific pins or could i just pinch some off a ecu plug at pickapart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Got a picture of the stinger plug and loom? What version do you have? They are setup to run a Bosch 4 wire narrowband direct or an LC-1 thru it's controller Air temp compensation seems like a good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Got a picture of the stinger plug and loom? What version do you have? They are setup to run a Bosch 4 wire narrowband direct or an LC-1 thru it's controller Air temp compensation seems like a good idea I have a lc-1 but the pins are missing from the ecu plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Ah ok the white plastic ecu plug looks very low tech more radio shack spec than auto wiring Possible to steal a connector or 2 from another pin you are not using by gently using a pick to gently release the connector from the plastic? So little info for these - wiring diagram is vague as New bare loom complete 145 aus$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Haha oh man, what a read! http://www.formulapacific.nz/?p=44 I would just rip that old piece of crap out. (unless racing rules dictated otherwise of course... Which they probably do) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I would 100% keep that! That's fantastic! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Got a bit of a head scratcher guys. I've found that my engine is knocking, between say 2500rpm and 3500rpm at motorway cruising sort of load. At the region it's knocking it's currently running ~20-25 deg timing, and has done for quite some time without issues.In fact I even advanced it a shitload further than this a bit prior, without any issues. I recently found a problem with one of my coilpacks and fixed that, and changed the plugs as well. But it's still knocking in that region, if I let the knock control pull timing it out pulls timing right back to almost nothing. Yet at the rpms just above and below that range, it doesnt knock with the normal amount of timing. Any thoughts? I'm thinking it sounds like I've probably got some physical problems with the motor. But I cant think what it could be, or why it would only knock around that rpm range. A partially blocked injector perhaps? Or hopefully not a broken ringland or something from a few over revs haha. This is around the rpm range that VVTI turns on, I've normally had it set to roughly 20 degrees advance at that load/rpm combo. But I've tried adjusting it up and down and doesnt seem to help.Maybe I should get a compression test done. The car otherwise runs fine. I will pull plugs again after work today and see if there's any evidence of anything weird going on, maybe double check valve clearances. Any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I read an article years ago about a racecar, the knocklink was going nuts and they couldnt figure out why at the track so the pulled out of the race(enduro i think) They later pulled the engine down and found the big end bearings were starting to fail. Enough to set off the knock sensor but not enough to affect oil pressure 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Well, it wouldnt exactly be a precedent for a 3SGE to have big end bearing issues haha! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 I don't know these engines at all. Are they prone to big end failure? Nothing has come loose ? Drive shaft/ gearbox? Just throwing ideas out there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 The earlier versions of these engines were very much prone to BEB failure. But these ones not so much. It's still a possibility though. I think it's definitely engine knock rather than gearbox/engine mounts etc. As its very repeatable, it's only in that specific rpm and load region. Maybe I just need to go back to basics a bit and do a compression test, check for manifold leaks, etc etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Removal of the screwdriver from the pan has fucked the harmonics, causing premature BEB failure. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamB Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Haha oh man, what a read! http://www.formulapacific.nz/?p=44 I would just rip that old piece of crap out. (unless racing rules dictated otherwise of course... Which they probably do) I've got a similar vintage Motec 2 Group in something. I'd love to tinker with the settings (warm up enrichment to be precise) but it seems neither love nor money can turn up a cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 The earlier versions of these engines were very much prone to BEB failure. But these ones not so much. It's still a possibility though. I think it's definitely engine knock rather than gearbox/engine mounts etc. As its very repeatable, it's only in that specific rpm and load region. Maybe I just need to go back to basics a bit and do a compression test, check for manifold leaks, etc etc. I once had a problem with the vvti solonoid setting off a knock sensor. Same thing chased it around untill i turned the vvti off and it went away. Have you had a listen with your ear phones to confirm its actually knock or some other noise? whats your afr like at that point? try adding a bit of fuel some motors. Even the noise from injector coils at a certin pw can cause false knock. Id throw some extra fuel at it first and see what happens. Im not sure about these motors but cruising at 2500 ish i'd expect to see more that 20deg timing in it. Could just be too retarded causing a slight miss. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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