kpr Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 mounting location is key. not too much heat, away from where condensation will pool. they also hate vibration. most sensors i've killed have been using exhaust probe in exhausts that bounce around and vibrate. on permanent install timer a relay is a good idea. so the wideband doesn't power up till the initial condensation burns off. +1 for what spencer said. i wouldn't bother running one permanently installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 But the pretty lights...... Yeah all good info from you lot. I'll try another recalibration just in case. I have never ran the disc that came with the controller.. is that something I should try. Like do these controllers need updates or recalibration themselves via the laptop? I've always kept mine in place because Im often having a play with the tune and or wanting to see how it's going in different driving situations. So would never be arsed to remove it. It has possibly had a hard life from lots of new rich tunes each time I've swapped engines/types and that carb fed turbo 12a ran pretty fucking rich at idle. Not upset if I have to buy another sensor because the usefulness of having had it has been well worth the outlay ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 You should just remove the gauge and mount your android phone units place with msdroid then it can log and show more info 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 My turn... My innovate Mtx L wideband has started going all crazy. Car started fine as usual but after the initial htr display as the sensor heats up the gauge just showed 22.4. It has done this once in a while but normally starts displaying a normal reading after a couple of minutes however this time its stayed playing up going all over the place. I have turned EGO correct off and the engine runs fine, idles fine and drives fine but I want my pretty numbers back! I have checked the earths, re calibrated it in free air and still sits on 22.2 or flicks about. Please see this rather exciting video I took.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDfzfk8984c&list=UUGKvDrc7wmDePaqJXIclOsw So I am now thinking it might need a new sensor? But maybe there is something else to try first? Something I have missed. How long do these bosch wideband sensors last- this one is about 3-4 years old. Have you recalibrated it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Yeah tried that. But will try again tomorrow (or when ever I manage to get around to it..) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 The refresh rate on the gauge that came with the LC-2 is just as good as the LM-2 hand controller... here I was thinking it was going to be utter rubbish. Serial output is way quicker of course, but that's to be expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Ive heard that all there products share the same electronics and firmware to an extent. Theres a huge thread on wide bands and controllers some where its intersting what was found and the diffrent methods of control. I believe innovate rated reasionable high for accuracy but quite low for realibitly. Other units such as the aem unit I use surpassed innovate in both feilds whilst others were nothing but a fancy display that interpreted no real data lol. The ngk afx unit rated well but is expensive compared to others. The 14point7 units rated really well overall and is what im looking at getting when I upgrade my unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Oh and if you get random lean spikes with innovate. They have been proven to be a controller problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 How tricky is it to calibrate a map sensor to use with an ECU? I want a 1 bar map sensor, and there are zillions of these around (pretty much every NA car ever with MAP) Not keen to pay $200 for one if I can help it... Is it just a matter of finding voltage/pressure at each end of the scale?Link has an onboard barometer that apparently helps with MAP sensor calibration but I dont know how it works yet as I need the ECU plugged in for the tuning software thingy to tell me how the calibration works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 im sure someone will beat me down but if your choice is wide open i suggest falcon tmap it solves three of your things, the cal table(s) are preset, they are $0.1, super common and it has iat in it. grab the falc ect aswell if you need one. (its also good to +1bar wink nudge) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 im sure someone will beat me down but if your choice is wide open i suggest falcon tmap it solves three of your things, the cal table(s) are preset, they are $0.1, super common and it has iat in it. grab the falc ect aswell if you need one. (its also good to +1bar wink nudge) ohhhhhh hohohohohohohohohosuperchargedbeams 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Easy you just need to know voltage vs map at 2 points. it should be a linier sensor or it wont work. Select map sensor on what ever voltage input you are using then select custom linier then give it a cal table to refere to. enter the values there and your done. How tricky is it to calibrate a map sensor to use with an ECU? I want a 1 bar map sensor, and there are zillions of these around (pretty much every NA car ever with MAP) Not keen to pay $200 for one if I can help it... Is it just a matter of finding voltage/pressure at each end of the scale?Link has an onboard barometer that apparently helps with MAP sensor calibration but I dont know how it works yet as I need the ECU plugged in for the tuning software thingy to tell me how the calibration works. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Ive heard that all there products share the same electronics and firmware to an extent. Theres a huge thread on wide bands and controllers some where its intersting what was found and the diffrent methods of control. I believe innovate rated reasionable high for accuracy but quite low for realibitly. Other units such as the aem unit I use surpassed innovate in both feilds whilst others were nothing but a fancy display that interpreted no real data lol. The ngk afx unit rated well but is expensive compared to others. The 14point7 units rated really well overall and is what im looking at getting when I upgrade my unit. True, that's good to know. Just from what people has been saying in this thread and elsewhere I expected the gauge to have the refresh rate of a flip clock or something equally shit. I was going to buy a 14point7 unit initially, but didn't want to wait for shipping and thought the Innovate would get here well before xmas since it was in stock in NZ (which proved to be false). But I still might get one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Those 14 point 7 products sound really good. Pricing seems fine too- im quite keen on one too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Get this one mang. http://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-lambda-controller-2 I used Slacker Cams one when I first got my car going and it was great. Also get MSDroid for your phone so you can data log and tune without a laptop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 I've almost finished my loom for the link, yusss. Hopefully finished tonight with the wiring, except for wideband (need to figure out where to mount it / run wiring) and map sensor. (as I dont have one yet)\ But will hopefully be able to start on sensor checks and calibration ooooohhh exciting. So far I havent used a single thing from the 2nd ECU plug, and have a few left over on the first. So I've got a shit tonne of inputs and outputs left! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Get this one mang. http://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-lambda-controller-2 I used Slacker Cams one when I first got my car going and it was great. Also get MSDroid for your phone so you can data log and tune without a laptop. Yeah that's the one I was looking at. Might just have to soon. Apart from most likely more stability I'm also keen to have both the gauge and tunerstudio or Ms Droid read same as the gauge. I've got ms Droid but it keeps dropping out. Tried many things but it seems to be a common problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangbug Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Link has very good idle speed control characteristics. I run a 2 wire solenoid and find it infinitely better than stepper motors. So much easier to set up and wire. I'll PM keltik but in the meanwhile, I'm wondering where to obtain a solenoid valve for this purpose and how large should/would I go on my 2L 4 banger. Also have the option for stepper motor control so would love it if anyone has any plans/info on either of these options. Many thanks. Oh and if none of that makes sense, it's regarding Idle Control with a TB bypass. Solenoid or stepper motor and sizing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Hey yeah I just went through this yesterday, it's pretty cool.setting up idle speed control on the link is super easy.First you set a table with engine temperature vs desired idle speed.Then you set up a table which is the PWM % that you need at each temperature, to make the engine idle at the speed you indicated in the first table.You can leave it like that (open loop) or go closed loop and setup some more info.So setup accelleration rates, decel rates etc to make sure you dont get a hunting idle or stalling etc.After doing the above, my car starts on a key turn with no throttle, at any temperature. Awesome!I'm using a toyota solenoid, with hosebarbs before and after the throttle body to the ISCV.20V 4AGEs have a solenoid ISCV that lives seperate to the manifold etc which might be good for your application. They're a bit bulky but have pipe sizes etc which suit being mounted off the throttle body(s).I've got a few kicking around here, and maybe a plug for it too if you wanted to try one. My ISCV uses pipes to/from the idle valve that are maybe 5mm internal diameter and seems to flow enough air. I seemed to have problems previously though when the pipes were a bit longer, it seems to work better when the pipes are shorter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangbug Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Hi Roman, Sounds like a pretty solid option. Love to give it a crack, 5-6mm was about what I was thinking. I'll pm ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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