camo_78 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Paint some on a bit of metal and see if it dries? Could be wrong but 1k should dry quick and 2k may not as needs hardener. Probably best to wait on pro advice, but yeah. what i was also thinking but thought id ask first,saves wasting any paint,lmao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 bearing tip: if removing/installing bearings into alloy housings etc its best to use a LPG bottle and a burner torch rather than a oxy set,it doesnt over heat the alloy or melt shit...usually apply some moving heat,and drop the bearing in and let it cool down on its own.. to remove a bearing from a housing,heat up around the outside of the bearing(not the bearing itself),get it nice a hotish,then turn the houing over(face the bearing down),if the bearing doest just fall out,tap the housing with either a mallet or tap it against a block of wood.. iver never needed to use a press to do bearings yet... #2..for a stuck bearing race inside a bearing carrier/hub etc: you can either spend a day grinding it down with a die grinder,or you can do what i do and run a bead of weld round teh insde with an arc welder,arc works better than mig here...if the bead sits high enough you can get a puller in behind it...but usually when the weld cools itll shrink the bearing race down and itll be loose...easier to pull out.. if anyone has tips on tapping out highs in panels with a hammer and dolly id be keen for some tips.. ie: which hammer does what,like wise with the different dollies... peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 ^ This http://www.youtube.com/user/restolad/videos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonK Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 For tapping highs out it all depends on how high they are, Biggers ones may need to be shrunk out using oxy/acetelyne and a hammer and dolly(usually a dolly with quite a long curve on it and an ordinary panel hammer) or you can use a knurled hammer instead.Always hit them in a dragging type motion moving out from the centre as if your trying to spread the steel out of the high spot. should do a video or pictures because I'm useless at writing haha maybe tomorrrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 What Full face 3M mask is OK to use with isocyanates? This? http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... G281LQ4Dgl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 What Full face 3M mask is OK to use with isocyanates?This? http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... G281LQ4Dgl Hey man I sell safety equipment for a living. I would recommend a 3M 6000 series full face mask, the disposable cartridges are NOT recommended for isocynates on a regular basis, however with a strict change out schedule of around 8hrs use for new cartridges it can be done but not an ideal solution for a professional/someone exposed to iso's on a regular basis. The mask with 3M 6057 filters with a 5925 prefilter/501 retainer will be the best solution. Store your cartidges in a sealed container between uses, or just chuck them and replace for max safety. It's widely recommended that a fresh air system (fed from compressor normally) is used for painting, especially in a barely vented area or an enclosed booth. Of course the compressor needs to be stored outside of the painting area otherwise it's just sucks up contaminated air. Shout out if you'd like a quote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 Yea Snoozin is bang on, those 3M organic charcoal filters used to be rated for isocyanates up to 40hrs (but safe bet is 8 as above or every car you paint change them, they are not expensive). I guess the rating was removed as there is no way of making sure people will stick to a filter change routine, isocyanate has no odour so if you are ever smelling paint fumes in your mask you have been over exposed. Still plenty of professional painters who will use just the 3M masks in booths for painting, at home use a HVLP gun and make sure you have some ventilation. Oh and cover all your skin, I wear a painting balaclava and hooded overalls, you absorb it through the skin also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 You guys are the best! Fresh air system isn't really an option because money, but I figure a mask will be fine for the home painter with regular filter changes. Snoozin, I'll send you a PM about quote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 Going on what you spencer says in his buick thread it seems 2k/2pack/2 part Epoxy paint is the go for primer But what about after that? e.g. do you need some other primer coat as some things I read say that epoxy is no good for sanding? then what? 2K urethane? 2K epoxy? 2K enamel? 1K enamel? 1K acrylic? 1K alkyd something? 1K Lacquer? And then do you need a clear coat on top of that? Again 1001 choices of 2K and 1K. I mean I'm sure there are reasons for the different types, different properties, prices etc. etc. but Say in this case I'm thinking about painting my racecar and I'm not too fussed on the finish/its just going to look like a fridge. also what about seam sealer to go along with whatever paint? Yes these questions have been asked before but I never recall getting a clear answer. (it's certainly not clear to me yet!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 So epoxy primer over bare metal, etch has its place but epoxy is the way to go. You can get epoxy primers that are sandable and some you can top coat within a certain window without sanding. 2K urethane (sometime called Urethane enamel just to add confusion) is the standard for top coat paint these days it will give the hardest most chemical resistant finish and keep its gloss longer (better UV resistance as well). Depending on your colour choice you can paint 2K top coat in a single stage paint system (for plain colours usually) and base coat/clear coat for metallic or if you want more depth to your normal colour. You can use allot of 2K top coats straight over epoxy primer and this can work well for things like engine bays where you don’t want to do extra sanding and you don’t need to do any blocking work After you have epoxy primered a bare metal car you will usually scuff it and hit it with high build urethane 2k primer. This will fill any scratches from the metal prep and give you a easy to sand thick base to block the body smooth on. So normally for a car exterior you will go Epoxy-> High build Urethane primer -> urethane top coat. This is very dependent on the paint system you decide to use some will have an epoxy sealer that goes on thin over the primer work just before colour. For the race car with the correct epoxy you could just do basic block work on the epoxy seal it up with more epoxy and top coat straight on that. The finish quality isn’t the high concern so you don’t need mega block work, it will all stick and work well with the right matched paint/primer system The 2K industrial paint I used for my firewall was sprayed straight over wet epoxy primer and it is intended to be used this way if you wish. You can get it in a range of colours and it is super hard a durable, just wont get the gloss and depth of the proper automotive 2k range, probably perfect for a race car All of this is assuming you are comfortable spraying 2k paints with isocyanates at home (just be careful and its fine). Oh and I use Sika 227 I think, use it over epoxy follow the tech sheet for curing times and paint over top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Thanks Spence, this fred is full of good info. What's the go with underbody paints? People always say use POR15, but really? Seems mighty expensive and I've not seen panel beaters use it. They normally use the bumpy stuff don't they? What's good? And do I need to prep bare steel with something before epoxy primer? What's the brand of this cheap industrial paint you use? I'm keen to get some black for painting parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 POR15 is good if you're coating a sandblasted underbody or one thats surface rusty that you've gone over with a wire brush to clean off excess scale. Wouldn't put it over existing coatings. The point of epoxy is it sticks to bare steel like an etch but waterproof. Just give it a prepsol first. Cheap industrial 2k? PRetty much every brand has a cheap line of products. I use resene acrythane. A litre would go a long way on parts and cost about $60 with hardner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Hey Spencer, would you recommend using epoxy straight over paint/bog that's been sanded with 240, then top coating in the same day? Or is is likely to shrink back and show scratch marks? Just wondering as I'm painting an old Isuzu truck this week, not a show quality job, but want it to be reasonable as I'm doing it for someone else. Normally I'd do a couple of coats of filler primer then sand with 400 before painting, just a bit scared to experiment with something I'm not used to on someone elses shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 Personally I'd let the epoxy cure over night first before filler priming over it. Especially with it being winter. Read the data sheet for the stuff you've got though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Alot of people seem to use cutting disks for removing panel steel and I do in tight/heavy areas but of late ive had good/better success using a good pair of tin snips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Hmm unsure on the shrink back you would get using epoxy then topcoat over filler on the same day! With the paints and filler I am using I am getting naff all shrink back and its been sitiing in primer for 3-4 weeks, I would give it a go! Also while I am a fan of tin snips for shaping up patch panels I think there is abit much risk of bending steel if cutting out stuff on the car? I just use what ever works best at the time be it snips, grinder, air shears or air hack saw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Yeah they do stretch the steel a little but I've actually found that after tig welding the new patch in place it shrinks back perfect so that's a bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 as for cutting out stuff i use a dremel with a thin cutting disks. I have rebuilt a few corner windscreen and some other bits around fuel tank etc.done a few of these repairs now ,in each case i could never have had a chance without the dremel. this is the cutting disks , totally awesome for building funny shapes. http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/EZ688-01.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I find those dremel disks cost the moon and break heaps around the mount for the clip. I use some collets that step down the die grinder there is then a bunch of cheap tiny cut off wheels on ebay that are lush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 if anyone has tips on tapping out highs in panels with a hammer and dolly id be keen for some tips..ie: which hammer does what,like wise with the different dollies... peace has anyone used the stainless steel shrinking discs?, they look to take highs out really well, you can get them for a nine inch or 5 inch grinder for about 60 bucks ex usa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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