Spencer Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Yea they look sweet Tip of the day for working dents is to use a big fat marker pen as a guide coat on your steel. Colour in the area then sand it with a block to see what you have, beat/shrink the area then repeat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I'm def thinking about getting some.. I have a few to remove from various cars.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I've heard of people using worn out old flap disks to do the same as those shinking disks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I'm def thinking about getting some.. I have a few to remove from various cars.. Yea it does seem less brutal that the old gas set! my body work is almost done but next project I'll be getting one, that and a stud gun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 I've got myself some epoxy primer and cheap black urethane for underbody parts which just leaves colour for the engine bay, guards and other bits and pieces. So how shit is the industrial spec urethane vs. the 2k? I'm not fussy when it comes to shine, but I want it to not fade or look totally flat. 2k is about twice the price of the industrial shit so.... I'm tempted to go budget spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 The industrial shit I use is a 2K urethane, it just isnt the same high quality as automotive finishing paint. It still gives good gloss and is sets concrete hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 The guy at Autopaint told me "2K" is the marketing name for the high end 2-pack urethane and the lowerspec stuff is 2-pack but not "2K". Is that correct? *confused* Sounds like the lower spec stuff is still probably good enough for me though. Maybe I'll do my engine bay with it and depending on how that looks I can use it elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 That’s all just bullshit terminology, if it has a hardener you mix with the paint its a 2 pac, 2 part, 2k whatever you want to call it. Check the tech sheets on the industrial paint make sure its high resistance to solvents etc. (as urethane 2k should be) and you are good to go. While the Industrial shit is lush I dont think I would use it on a car I was keeping/gave a shit about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 Guy at autopaint is clearly a fuckwit. 2 pack, 2pot, 2K, all the same. = paint plus a catalyst to make it harden. not 2 pack, pot, k = paint plus thinner, works via the thinner evaporating out of the paint and the paint slowly hardening/drying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 Oh, spencer alreasy replied. Not a bad guy that spencer. Some say handsome even. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Lies! A good paint guy goes a long way, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Yeah, you've convinced me. I'll go for the hideously expensive non-industrual spec. I'd only ever regret it otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 I find those dremel disks cost the moon and break heaps around the mount for the clip. I use some collets that step down the die grinder there is then a bunch of cheap tiny cut off wheels on ebay that are lush yeah these ones here are all good, they are better then the ones that come in the attachments kit, designed for cutting metal etc. they last about 3 times longer then the brown ones you get in the kits and are bigger , with a reinforced mounting boss that doubles as a quick release . i have that pack i posted up and i have only used 2 disks so far out of the ten . they aren't that cheap to buy little amounts but for 50 bucks you can get a tube of 30 . but seeing all the info you have posted up i am guessing that you are in the trade so i think they wouldnt last long if you use them every day . what are the ones you use ? i am always intersted in finding out how the pros do things might be easier and cheaper too : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 In the past I've cut 4 small wheels out of one cut-off wheel for a grinder and drilled a little hole in the centres for the Dremmel. They don't need to be perfectly round, after a quick grind against something the become perfectly round pretty much straight away. Works really well. Edit: Like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felixx Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 what do you cut a cutting wheel with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 A fucked pair of wire cutters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felixx Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 thank you. Next purchase is a darthvader mask for isocyanates (2k paint) and lots of sandpaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Im not in the trade man, painted a handfull of cars and still learning. Those deremel disks with the quick release are the ones I used, broke too many around the quick release which made me cringe as they are a couple bucks each. Had more luck with the ones from china that are 20c each and just have a hole for a nut, no worries when they fly to bits Also if you are doing allot of body work go grab one of these Upol onion board, they are around $20 bucks each, just throw away the sheet once you have finished. Saves me so much time and effort cleaning my mixing board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 I keep cereal boxes and use a fresh side every time. Nothing worse than having a wee bit of crap digging trenches in your fresh bog. Also- industrial vs expensive 2k- expensive stuff is gonna keep better sheen, shrink less and often if your using cheap paint and you get runs the pigment can separate. ie if you painted something grey and got a sag, some of the white or black pigment may separate due to weight differences and when you've polished the sag/run out there could be a little line of white/black in your paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Yea I have been warned off cardboard but plenty of pros still use it And yea keep that industrial 2k paint for engine bays, inner guards etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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