andy

Worth noting that not all panel beaters are created equal! Have a talk with someone like Tony at Custom Metalshapers in East Tamaki if you want it done right. Ive seen alot of people spend a heap of money on body work from local panel beaters only to end up disapointed and out of pocket. There is a reasonable chance that the new rockers and pans won't be a direct fit without mods and this is where people like Tony with well equiped workshops (best ive seen) really add value. Who ever you use ask to see their shop and if it consists of a mig and some tins of bog best try somewhere else.

Try Porkchop BMX for the blue tyres. My bro got some for his HMX last year. Were cheap too.

Who are you going to use for your blasting?

I played with different cam profiles, porting and balancing etc but the best gains came from a pair of 40 DCOE's.

What details have ya got for the DE18910 - 10" Dyno-Cool Electric Fan? They look like what I'm after http://www.fpp.co.nz/data/catalogues/deralecatalog.pdf All the specs and sizes are in the attached catalogue. If you need anything from FPP.co.nz mention you saw it on the Oldschool website or that Andrew from Penrose branch sent you there. Let me know how you go or PM me if you can find a better price on any stocked items (in NZ) and I will look at it further.

Awesome project. Looking forward to seeing progress. Are you going with a static drop or bags/juice?

What details have ya got for the DE18910 - 10" Dyno-Cool Electric Fan? They look like what I'm after Will get some info to you tomorrow.

http://www.fpp.co.nz/products/searchproducts.aspx If any of these are what you need PM me for an OS price.

Who do you work for? and who is your King Tony / F&G rep? Steve looks after our account.

Digging those colours. You going with shiney, satin or flat black?

I do King Tony through my shop. I will see if they do separate handles tomorrow. I just got one of their panel sets for myself mainly for the dollies. Aslong as you get hickory handles you should be good. What make are your hammers?

What is the car?

I have seen it done locally in the past and rodders "box" chassis alot. I would however be very careful about purchasing a car that has had the chassis wrapped in the states etc or been juiced for that matter. Cletus will be able to give you the definitive answer on this.

Nice rack.

Flying into it and its looking good. Nice work!

As above. Ratchets are not designed for "breaking" tight bolts and a pipe on a ratchet will toast it pretty quick. Thats the job of a power bar. Get a drift (mild steel bar) and a hammer. Give the head of the bolt a good blow with the drift and hammer then have another go.

I think those are ROH Reflexes from memory. They were everywhere in the 90's. Those and euro 5's.

Id second these guys. Did a head liner for a MK 1 Escort I had from stratch. Great job. Also Kelly at Stitches Upholstery is apparently very good.

a scratch start tig is the worst abomination on the face of the planet. the first thing you have to do before you start welding with one is fuck your electrode. i fucking hate them. Ive used them for so long now its what im used to. I recently used a HF start TIG and would certainly go this way if I was purchasing. Its seems to be a standard feature now. The only reason I ask is because I already have a good arc welder, and it seems quite reasonable to buy a hand piece for it. From what I can gather they seem like the industry standard for boilermakers/pipe fitters working outside etc. Does it have a switch for TIG function? If it does you should go for it. Just remember earth lead to the positive on the machine and the torch to neg.

yeah I can understand how that would fuck you off. There is a guy local to me who just repairs welders. If it comes to that point I can get you his contact details.

a scratch start tig is the worst abomination on the face of the planet. the first thing you have to do before you start welding with one is fuck your electrode. i fucking hate them. Ive used them for so long now its what im used to. I recently used a HF start TIG and would certainly go this way if I was purchasing. Its seems to be a standard feature now.

And after more requests for help, they sent me a block diagram for the wiring of the welder I don't have. I'm getting my brother to write to them in Chinese. Failing that I'm going to have to try to fix it blind, but the thing's fucking complicated. What went wrong with it?

I will try and find some pics and scan tomorrow. I recently did the heads on my 302. I didnt get to carried away and basically port matched them to the manifolds and removed any excessive casting. I did the same years ago on my xflow coupled with balancing and a 234 Kelford grind and dcoe's. Was a sweet and very drivable engine.

The previous owner/butcher of my car thought fibre glass was cool. I strongly disagree. Do it right.

Nice work! That engine sits perfect in the bay.