Vintage Grumble Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 Mmmmmmmmmmm galv. Have worked out what thickness the washers need to be, and have set my machinist to work (as I have to go to my mummies for tea) so hopefully it will be back on the road by Thursday night. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 ChUck dA lOckA iN dis cUz!!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 Need to hear this on full port VG, make it happen. More importantly the 4age dort in stereo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 ChUck dA lOckA iN dis cUz!!! Ahhh the locka, how I miss it. Weak skidz I know, but hey, we all know about that 4age talks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 Need to hear this on full port VG, make it happen. More importantly the 4age dort in stereo I'm at half mast already, just thinking about stereo dort! Should be able to get it all back together tonight, will let the loctite and silicon set over night, fluid it up on thursday after work, and go for a hoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Hello VG, isn't the beauty of a 4age that the rear main is in a sweet little housing and can be swapped piece of piss? Swapping cranks sounds like the worst idea thing ever, is it all measured up and will even work with this engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Good day Mr Spenno, as you say, the seal is easy as to change, and I put a new one in a few days before the drags. The problem is the fuckwit machinist who ground the crank, tried to grind the seal groove out, and took it down 0.6mm, which is way too much for a std seal to work. But he was nice enough to leave a lip rite at the end of the crank, so that it cant be speedi sleeved. I shortened the spring to add a bit of lip pressure on the new seal, but I guess the spring fell off/broke/was to tight (tho I measured it) and owned the seal. Will fnd out in a few mins, just about to whip the flywheel off. I could machine the lip off this crank, and sleeve it where the seal runs, but thought it may be better just to change the crank? If I do end up taking the engine out, it will give me an excuse to clean up and paint the engine bay, which needs doing as the fire wall is a bit rusty due to brake/clutch fluid taking the paint off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Can you dress off the unmachined portion of the crank with some fresh emery paper in situ and install a speedy sleeve? This would be my plan A... unless access totally sucks is that too rangi for a mighty 4AGE? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Custom home made rope seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Burn it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 SBC conversion? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 loctite will let go around 80-90 degrees depending on which one you use so i dont reckon it will help much. and you say the crank is 0.6mm under?? that eats wee wees. can you maybe find an imperial lip seal that has a right-ish ID and a smaller OD then make a sleeve for the OD where it goes into the removable plate? it would be much easier to make and install a sleeve if you have the plate in your hand and can measure it properly and fit the spacer to it as you make it. anywho, there probably isn't a seal that will fit but might be worth a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Can you dress off the unmachined portion of the crank with some fresh emery paper in situ and install a speedy sleeve? This would be my plan A... unless access totally sucks is that too rangi for a mighty 4AGE? I could prolly make up some sort of rig to do this, but its not really my first choice. It needs to go down 0.6mm, so would have to be ground, emery paper would take fucking ages, ha. loctite will let go around 80-90 degrees depending on which one you use so i dont reckon it will help much. and you say the crank is 0.6mm under?? that eats wee wees. can you maybe find an imperial lip seal that has a right-ish ID and a smaller OD then make a sleeve for the OD where it goes into the removable plate? it would be much easier to make and install a sleeve if you have the plate in your hand and can measure it properly and fit the spacer to it as you make it. anywho, there probably isn't a seal that will fit but might be worth a look. The loctite I used in my diff can go to some crazy temp before it loses strength, cant remember the number of it tho sorry, but it was good for well over 150 deg, so was thinking of using that. Thats a good idea about changing the seal to imp and sleeve the od, I had a look at this a while back, but couldnt find an imperial seal that would work. The std seal is 70mm id, and that cranks about 69.4mm at the mo, so its kind of inbetween std seal sizes. The more I think about it, the more likely it is i'll just do something with the seal, I cbf'd taking the engine out, haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 I could prolly make up some sort of rig to do this, but its not really my first choice. It needs to go down 0.6mm, so would have to be ground, emery paper would take fucking ages, ha. flywheel off, rope round crank pulley, pull start, revlimit, file. no need to thank me 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 this man knows whats up^. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 .6mm sounds like a job for a steady hand and a hand linisher. Or sanding disc on a grinder... either way with the plugs out and someone turning the motor over.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Im certain i recall dealing with a place that will cast custom seals and bushes for you. Might have to buy 10, but it would be a shitload easier than any of the other options mentioned so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 yea thats an idea, seal jet will make you a lip seal but it will have to be glued in (it won't have any metal outer ring) and you can use your modified spring for the inner lip. they can machine one from solid so it will be spendy but they are pretty good for a one off custom made item like that. maybe talk to them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 I deal with seal jet and seal imports through work, and did talk to a dude at seal imports about making one, but I cant remember what was said. I'll give them a ring on Monday and see what the go is. So they dont have steel guts or springs? cray cray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Lots of cars have solid neoprene seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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