xygtho Posted July 6, 2015 Posted July 6, 2015 That's a good theory, but the bad side (RH) is actually the least loaded on most north island tracks. Yeah, was thinking about that afterwards - Pukekohe, Hampton Downs and Manfield are all clockwise tracks. It would only be Taupo that could pose a potential problem. Years ago a car I used to co-drive in had a diff with fully floating axles which had twin taper roller bearings on each axle - it could still generate enough movement through the axles to generate bad pad knock. Hope you sort your problem 1 Quote
Truenotch Posted July 6, 2015 Author Posted July 6, 2015 Knock off in the rear would be interesting! It would be interesting to see if mine are doing it at all. I reckon it would be pretty hard to tell. Quote
xygtho Posted July 6, 2015 Posted July 6, 2015 Ha Ha. Yep - nothing like the pilot of the BDA rallycar youre sharing telling you that the brake pedal doesnt feel quite right... Im sure you'd know if you were getting any pad knock. Your mechanical aptitude and standard of preperation would seem to indicate that youre well ahead of the game Quote
Roman Posted July 8, 2015 Posted July 8, 2015 Have you ever driven the car with the lower 4 links down set to the lower set of holes on the diff? Quote
Truenotch Posted July 8, 2015 Author Posted July 8, 2015 Yeah, it turns into a squat monster! I did it when I first lowered it and at was amazing in the rain, but was pushy and lazy in the dry. I guess it might work better with a higher spring rate, but I'm fairly happy with the rear geometry as it is. 1 Quote
Roman Posted July 8, 2015 Posted July 8, 2015 Ahhh okay interesting. What angle would you say the 4 links on currently, would they be parallel with the ground, up towards the diff, or up towards the body? Quote
Truenotch Posted July 8, 2015 Author Posted July 8, 2015 They're close to parallel with the ground, but are slightly lower at the diff end. 1 Quote
kpr Posted July 9, 2015 Posted July 9, 2015 record some launches roman, if the ass of the car drops. can try dial in some anti squat by dropping the links at diff end. will have to do some testing, too see how it effects handling though 2 Quote
Stu Posted July 12, 2015 Posted July 12, 2015 Also record some static load testing - we all like a bit of that 3 Quote
kyteler Posted September 2, 2015 Posted September 2, 2015 You're plastic welding all of that, yeah? Sooooooo, cut the inner and bottom brake duct intake corners out, enlarge the hole and re-weld the corners into the newer place which will leave only minor straight edges to run between the newly located corners. More brake coooooling, brah. Full underbody tray next, canyards up front and diffuser in the rear. Quote
Truenotch Posted September 2, 2015 Author Posted September 2, 2015 Class rules only let me have undertrays to the axle line, so no full underbody for me. It's fibreglass, so pretty much anything goes as long as it will work when we take a mould off it. 1 Quote
jsnapsnz Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 Alltrade!!! Loving the use of the $10 Bin signs :D:D 2 Quote
Truenotch Posted July 16, 2017 Author Posted July 16, 2017 8 hours ago, jsnapsnz said: Alltrade!!! Loving the use of the $10 Bin signs :D:D Haha, cheers. Those are old cardboard $10 bins that we took to Fieldays with us. Quote
kicker Posted August 1, 2017 Posted August 1, 2017 I'll have number 4 please. Have been enjoying the recent updates too 3 Quote
Vintage Grumble Posted August 1, 2017 Posted August 1, 2017 6 seems to be the one that grabs my fan-dango 1 Quote
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