dylan

PAINT THREAD

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The paint will still be on the outside, no matter which rim you place it on. That's how asymmetric tyres work.

I'd probably lean towards tyre black or a sand with some fine sand paper. can't be any worse than scuffing a tyre on a curb which doesn't seem to affect them?

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12 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

Flip them side to side though? 

Like take the left tire and put it on the right hand rim? 

I think you've confused assymetrical for directional. 

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2 hours ago, kyteler said:

I think you've confused assymetrical for directional. 

youre dead right, read asymmetrical and thought directional. as you were. 

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On 29/06/2020 at 23:19, Esky_addict said:

Grabbed this from the rotary thread, anyone know a paint code or name for the Matt green rx2?

Screenshot_2020-06-19-09-50-01-22.png

Code = cheap ass job........

 

Looks to be about 3 different colours so which one do you want?

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This is a long thread and I'm having trouble finding a place where stripping a car to bare metal is discussed. Is there a decent thread on here on the topic? Most interested in sanding (disk grinding with paint removal attachments) and media blasting.

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Strip disc is the way to go (scotch brite on steroids) in combo with twisted wire wheels and a brass wire wheel for a drill.. Paint stripper works well also with less dust but more stink. I use a combo of those. 

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I ended up using strip disks on my Ute tray. It was the best option. Paint stripper was taking forever where there was multiple layers of it.

I used about 6 disks to strip a Ute tray inside and out. So get 10

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Yup as above. Strip disk and wire wheels, makes a huge mess and noise but it works. 
 

Big fan of paint stripper on paint and then mild acids on rust just because no noise and dust. Although if you have 2k paint or thick primer etc the paint stripper will struggle. If you are lucky and it’s factory laquer or enamel it will jump off the car with fuck all work.

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Hey team,

Have my roll cage getting close to finished and will need painted. Planning on doing it myself as the rally budget is getting chewed. I was told that the Wattyl Killrust epoxy enamel could be a good option. Looking at going a grey colour, will matt black the A pillars and bars around there.

Cheers

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2k paint all day, will be much more resistant to chips etc

a litre or so will be like $50 for something basic.

 

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On 12/08/2020 at 11:16, Spencer said:

Yup as above. Strip disk and wire wheels, makes a huge mess and noise but it works. 
 

Big fan of paint stripper on paint and then mild acids on rust just because no noise and dust. Although if you have 2k paint or thick primer etc the paint stripper will struggle. If you are lucky and it’s factory laquer or enamel it will jump off the car with fuck all work.

Used paint stripper on the roof of the crown because the panel beater didn't want to see much heat put into the crazy thin roof panel. 

Spray store had some new homebrew gel stripper that apperently professional shops said was as good as tergo. It sure ripped the paint off the roof with minimal effort. 

I'd have used less product if I had a better sheet of plastic to go over top, but I used rubbish bags and the wind kept lifting them. 

Would trade again

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On 12/08/2020 at 11:16, Spencer said:

Yup as above. Strip disk and wire wheels, makes a huge mess and noise but it works. 
 

Big fan of paint stripper on paint and then mild acids on rust just because no noise and dust. Although if you have 2k paint or thick primer etc the paint stripper will struggle. If you are lucky and it’s factory laquer or enamel it will jump off the car with fuck all work.

Not too sure what the paint was on my old Triumph but rather than blistering and falling off, the paint stripper just made it really really soft, it sortof just smeared around and then I was eventually able to clean the remnants off with MEK.. never had paint do that before

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Pretty much get everything from protec? I used their high build urethane a bunch of times for blocking, you can mix it as high build or as a regular thin coat. They are basically the cheap brand but still sell legit automotive paint systems.

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12 minutes ago, Spencer said:

Pretty much get everything from protec? I used their high build urethane a bunch of times for blocking, you can mix it as high build or as a regular thin coat. They are basically the cheap brand but still sell legit automotive paint systems.

Was waiting for you to chime in with Protec haha, got a link for which type/model number specifically? Catalogue List seems to be as long as your arm..

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I used others before PPG and Spies, just costs twice as much and for the hobbyist I don't think you gain much going to the baller stuff.

Ask the guy at the counter? they wont fuck you around. Whats are you doing? going over epoxy to block for top coat? pretty sure you want this one if you actually need the high build side of things. Its super thick shit, they have another carmaster one that is thinner.

https://www.protec.com.au/images/uploads/tech_data_sheets/CP-6120_CARMASTER_2_PACK_HI_BUILD_PRIMER_FILLER_Carmaster_Primer_16-05-16.pdf

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Yeah going over epoxy. There’s a very slight wavey-ness in the panels where the replacement piece has been welded in (read: lower door skins, lower section of rear 3/4s) need something to try and smooth that out so seeing what people have had success with.

not sure where you draw the line between between high build primer/polyester filler/bog/paper mache? 

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