dylan

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Yup makes sense, so safe to say $1600 is reasonable. Time to climb under the car and start grinding?

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if your getting the blasting man to spray shit back on, make sure you go check it in person first

ive had two trailers that they have tried taking the piss (two different places, one of which is always awesome otherwise, the other pretty was a fly by nighter)

 

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I'd wire wheel the floor for you for $1400, bargain.

Unless you want to eat off it I reckon it could be done in 1-2 days of slog. Most of it looks light so would take minimal effort. Might need a second grinder and run them in shifts. Those twisted cup brushes work fast. Seem to last ok too.

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You are lucky that there's no underseal on it. My Morrie was similar, just paint and light dirt and surface rust. Did it in a weekend. Very ok get some good sealing goggles

 

My Ute has underseal on it and it's that much more of a ball ache, at least I can turn it on its side

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Just get under there and do it in sections.. Be done before you know what happened. 

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@rusty360 

I think to blast the underside of mine was 1500 from memory at mates rates and the plan was for me to paint the underside. i started and they finished it off. i also supplied the primer and top coat.

also the underside of the galaxie had very light surface rust so easy to blast.

also found that autoblast crowd quite high priced also wanted 2 grand just to blast mine.

and yes to what sentra said as if they know their painting it the operator can do a half assed job.

but anyway you look at it it will cost about 2 grand minimum to get it done.

also you could use some 3m sprip disc and wheels and wire wheels then prime and top coat.

can do small areas at a time.

also personally would not use underseal as i tend to think the moisture gets trapped underneath. plus have found rust under underbody sealer in the past. paint is also a nicer finish in my opinion 

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6 hours ago, piazzanoob said:

@rusty360 

 

also personally would not use underseal as i tend to think the moisture gets trapped underneath. plus have found rust under underbody sealer in the past. paint is also a nicer finish in my opinion 

This. i had a eh wagon I looked at for a job that had that thick underseal coating on it, the floor looked fine from underneath, but from the inside was yuck, it had rusted badly in a lot of places but the underseal was holding it together until you poked it, it needed front and rear floor pans replacing 

It had rubber flooring as well so I think it just trapped moisture 

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Just now, cletus said:

This. i had a eh wagon I looked at for a job that had that thick underseal coating on it, the floor looked fine from underneath, but from the inside was yuck, it had rusted badly in a lot of places but the underseal was holding it together until you poked it, it needed front and rear floor pans replacing 

It had rubber flooring as well so I think it just trapped moisture 

Yeah the rubber flooring didnt do any of them much good!! Same as a vinyl floored van etc I guess.

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After I colour sand the crown to fix up the clearcoat, what would you guys recommend as a polish? 

And will 2000gr be fine enough on the paper or do I need to track down some 2500/3000?

2000 was as fine as I could order from supercheap during level 3 lockdown but I figure it'll take me a while to get to the 2000gr stage

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2000 should be fine. You have a DA or two? on 2k paint I like a microfibre pad to cut then a foam pad to polish, using Meguiars older 105/205 compounds just because I was recommended them and they worked well for me (bottles have lasted for years as only do a few cars). The rabbit hole is endless on pads and compounds but need a DA and then after that its all downhill, watch a few youtube videos if needed.

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2000 is fine for sure, if RJP is open they sell a 3000 thin finishing pad that goes on a DA and preps well for cutting

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1 hour ago, Spencer said:

2000 should be fine. You have a DA or two? on 2k paint I like a microfibre pad to cut then a foam pad to polish, using Meguiars older 105/205 compounds just because I was recommended them and they worked well for me (bottles have lasted for years as only do a few cars). The rabbit hole is endless on pads and compounds but need a DA and then after that its all downhill, watch a few youtube videos if needed.

Maguire's 201? I think is the cutting 

And yeah 205 is the polish finish 

Decent product we use then at work.

2000 grit will he fine to machine buff out just take your time and dont burn through 

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Perfect, 

I borrowed a DA but am unable to borrow that one again atleast for quite a while as its gone back into a professional shop. 

I was just going to use blocks by hand, and have an adjustable rotary buff to borrow, but I'll need to buy suitable cover boot things to go on it. 

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If you have some spare money can get a china DA that is pretty good for like $200, pretty useful thing if you have a few cars with nice paint.

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Any chance you could post a pic of the kinda da your talking about? 

It's sounding less like the sanding da I borrowed to sand the car way back, maybe that machine isn't even called a DA? 

Not against buying gear to do a good job, but it won't get that much use 

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I mean a electric dual action polisher in say 6" size, a smaller one is super handy also they come in all sorts of sizes and flavours. Way more forgiving/safe than a rotary for me anyway. Hand cutting and polishing is pretty full on, you will be jacked at the end.

I have one similar to this in 6" (which I cannot find), but have used one of the $100 Rupes clones and for DIY they are sweet also. They are china spec but do the job, doesn't stall out easy or do anything shit.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SPTA-125mm-8mm-780W-DA-Orbital-Polisher-Dual-Action-Car-Polisher-Polishing-Pads/283633888088?hash=item4209e5ab58:g:y8IAAOSwSRJcivaN

 

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@Spenceris correct maguires 105 is cutting . Use this to cut the 1500/2000 scratches out. Take a while to cut 1500 scratches out. There is a balance of having enough compound to keep it cutting and not go dry and to much and splattering it all over everything around you. 

A small spray bottle of water is handy to just lightly spray on the buff pad first and on the panel.  Keeps everything lice and moist. 

Then 205 if the finishing polish. Takes way less time and only a few passes to polish up. Use a different buff pad for this otherwise there is no point because there will be cutting compound embedded in the buff pad

Rotary bluffs are good but dangerous. Easy to burn through edges.  I did it plenty when I was learning. 

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