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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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34 minutes ago, kyteler said:

I don't have access to that info but it is available to several authorities (police, local governance, etc) however unless you're fortunate to have a connection within them you are unlikely to get it I would have thought. 

So it's essentially a no as it's unlikely anyone in those positions would risk their job by breaching privacy laws. 

Some friendly mechanics can access this info too :wink:

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On 27/04/2020 at 10:51, rusty360 said:

I was thinking this to, a couple of pics would be awesome!

image.png.e77cdefcec3322cd13c512fc898f53b6.png

This is the passenger side of the car. The left hand belt is for the position beside the door, the other half of the belt is on the wheel tub. The right hand belt is for the centre seat so these cross over to give the correct spacing. 

Happy for you to come round and have a look at the car if it helps.

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1 hour ago, Kiwibirdman said:

image.png.e77cdefcec3322cd13c512fc898f53b6.png

This is the passenger side of the car. The left hand belt is for the position beside the door, the other half of the belt is on the wheel tub. The right hand belt is for the centre seat so these cross over to give the correct spacing. 

Happy for you to come round and have a look at the car if it helps.

Awesome that makes sense. a picture says 1000 words! Would you mind showing me what you have done with the other two mounting points? Wheel tub and wheel arch I'm guessing.

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On 14/04/2020 at 15:01, Ja1lb8 said:

Dunno if this is the right place to ask but here we go

Got this old crown almost finished

Jap import well need complying shortly

100% stock, Whats the legalities/requirements for the seatbelts?

Planning on fitting the originals, have  multiple sets and in decent condition for front and rear. Similar to falcon or holden design lap belts of the same era.

Has suspect looking design where you can unclip the front belts and tuck the shoulder part of the strap up onto the hoodlining and it becomes a lap  belt only. I guess for aesthics being a coupe. All belts have toyota markings, date of manufacture and what ever standards they meet on there little tags sewn too them.

Are these acceptable or well they need updating/oviously some sort of modern inertia belts going to be safer but meh

 

20200301_202109.jpg

I just recomplied my MS75 with basically exactly the same belts in it. 

Only difference being my car is NZ new If that helps. 

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4 hours ago, cletus said:

Yep that's fine on the same plane as the seat. Size doesnt matter as long as it meets the minimum area of 3000sq mm . Most people use 80x50 plates in that application.  

2 belts off one anchorage is doable but it's much less work to just put 2 plates next to each other, otherwise the plating requirement is much bigger and complicated 

Sweet as I thought that might be the case. At the moment the rear outside belts just have big washers I'm picking this is how it was done back in the day, not sure if im gunna change these too doubler plates. If ya dont mind me asking how much is a seat belt cert? PM me if that's easier. Cheers rusty

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2 hours ago, rusty360 said:

Sweet as I thought that might be the case. At the moment the rear outside belts just have big washers I'm picking this is how it was done back in the day, not sure if im gunna change these too doubler plates. If ya dont mind me asking how much is a seat belt cert? PM me if that's easier. Cheers rusty

Best to re do the outside ones with doubler plates and get it all certed at once

If belts fitted pre 92 the belt anchorages dont have to comply but I've had customers spend more time trying to prove the mod was done prior to 92 than it would take to fit the plates. At least you know you wont have any trouble later and it's done safely

Cert cost usually starts at $580 but if it's only belts and everything else is stock might be able to do it a little bit cheaper  

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2 hours ago, rusty360 said:

Awesome that makes sense. a picture says 1000 words! Would you mind showing me what you have done with the other two mounting points? Wheel tub and wheel arch I'm guessing.

There are 2 more mounts on the other side of the trans tunnel, basically mirror image of these 2. Due to the shape of the floor the centre one went on to the tunnel. I hope that is going to be OK for cert. 

image.png.8578ceffdf02031f7cfee8b41ebac541.png

The outboard ones are on the wheel tub.Sorry about the photo. This is looking at the seat base/seat back. You have to have the back of the seat out of the car, the base folds out of the way OK. The belt come round the seat and sits nicely. 

image.png.bbb621ca779fd57e05751c515943e84f.pngimage.png.b55f2f0b9e2e8445a80b9f7d92bce6f6.png

Here are the 3 belts

image.png.9c7f40d120c40525d0b68f5005874235.png

I hope this all makes sense.

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Hey @cletus, this is the cert tag on a 180sx at a dealer. Would the fact that the the model hasn’t been inputted incorrectly be an issue? Resulting in you being reasonable in requesting it be fixed if you were a prospective buyer? 

 

1303268533.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Exhaust cutouts..

okay, I’ve read that they can be legal as long as they’re not electronically controlled in the car and have a blanking plate over them which you have to physically get under the car to remove (for the likes of going to the drags).

Has anybody installed (and done this to) an electronically controlled exhaust cutout? I’d be keen to get some feedback on it and pics if possible.. I’ll only do it if it’s possible and certifiable when I get my suspension done.

@cletuswhats your line on this?

(sorry if it’s been asked before, search turned up nothing)

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Gearbox mounting. With my new engine swap, it uses the same factory engine mounts but it brings the gearbox 11mm closer to the front of the car. The gearbox has a plate that bolts to it (with 2 bolts) and then mounts to the x-member with a single centre bolt. It's the primer part in the following image:

10466992_736751173055365_4855181594044675464_o.thumb.jpg.a6007421d99a65ffc5ec9f89235a17e8.jpg

To keep from modding the x-member, most people just shift the mounting holes on this plate 11mm forward and weld up the old ones. An example shown in the next pic:

10484483_736750573055425_1452052557508079861_o.thumb.jpg.436523a46a7017559a55c625197147eb.jpg

Is this an okay approach for this, or should an entirely new plate be made?

@cletus  would appreciate your input.

Also, concerning old certs. My car is currently certed for a number of things, including a half-cage (with front side intrusion bars) based on the old main hoop diameter. Some things need updating - i.e. new engine, different rear brakes, but some are the same. Do the old certed things that stay the same need to be recertified?

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