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the palm and facing is OVER 9000

 

Springs must be CAPTIVE when the car is jacked up/unloaded suspension

 

Clint can take a rest on this one

 

if you go over a bump at speed the spring risk "unseating" and you rolling on bump stops trying to control a car with little or no effective braking ability

 

think a little about your front suspension and what happens under braking, the car's weight/mass dives forward and this is why there are bigger brakes o the front

 

if you make the front so stiff it and the suspension doesn't not provide ANY (worst case) travel then the front braking ability is reduced to almost zero (well over exaggerated but you get the idea right?)

 

which could happen if the springs fall out

 

the rules are there for a reason

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the palm and facing is OVER 9000

 

Springs must be CAPTIVE when the car is jacked up/unloaded suspension

 

Clint can take a rest on this one

 

if you go over a bump at speed the spring risk "unseating" and you rolling on bump stops trying to control a car with little or no effective braking ability

 

think a little about your front suspension and what happens under braking, the car's weight/mass dives forward and this is why there are bigger brakes o the front

 

if you make the front so stiff it and the suspension doesn't not provide ANY (worst case) travel then the front braking ability is reduced to almost zero (well over exaggerated but you get the idea right?)

 

which could happen if the springs fall out

 

the rules are there for a reason

 

bro wtf. You have taken his question completely out of context.

 

He states they are captive at ride height (with the car jacked up) but if he winds them all the way down (ie not what they will be driven at) then they become uncaptive. Its a legit question.

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Yeah its a targa car so not at all interested in slammed on its ass look. The question was only because i have heard of others being certed for a certain height, but if you wound them all the way down they wouldnt be anywhere near captive. Will just chuck keepers in then

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LOL WTF Joker?

 

When I went for Cert, they jacked the car up at it's set height, checked the springs were captive, then set it back down.

Your certifier WILL NOT adjust the height of your suspension.

My springs are uncaptive if you wind the adjustables as low as they will go, but as the car is being certified at a specific height (which should not change post certification) this does not matter.

 

Hope this answers your query.

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I was a scrutineer for Targa Rotorua once (helper) exact job was to check springs were captive/jack each car up, all passed / one was loose enough to rotate by hand so I had to get it checked by higher ups (Actual real world experience here for a change)

 

I am terrible with words/people

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Hey probably already been asked but for cert purposes on custom coilovers, does the spring have to be captive accross the total range of adjustablility? Or just in the +/-5% stated on the cert plate? Will add keepers if required but at the moment there is about a 10mm gap if they are wound right down.

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 have to be captive at the certed height.

 

if you want to lower it to the 5% tolerance you would have to make sure they are still captive.

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I probably know the answer to this already, (as In I know it's an answer I wont want to hear) but here goes anyway.

see the following picture

IMG_1792.jpg

See how the drag link rod end comes up from underneath?

The factory had them mounted from the top down. The owner of the vehicle in the above picture has fizzed up the holes, and tapered reamed the hole to reverse the taper.

This has been done to gain mo' sump clearance when a bigger donk is installed.

The above is from seppolia. I know someone here in kiwiland who did the same thing.

I would also like to carry out this mod, to aid in the fitment of the same engine.

However, I fear this clearly violates the 2nd commandment,

 

 "Thou shalt Not make a Weld to thine material made of Cast or Forged metals, when the Part is associated with Steering or Suspending a Motorcar."

 

But I'd like to hear it again, just so I put the idea out of my head for good.

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I don't know if this is legit but as an idea - could you get the arm drilled out parallel and then a threaded insert with a shoulder put in then machine the taper to the side you want it?

 

Or leave it parallel (so as not to remove excessive material) and build a drag-link that has rod-ends not ball-joits.

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