For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[HighLUX]

Cheers Clint thats what I needed to know

[kiwi808]

So a guy is selling a car on tradme. He has tried selling it with plates and tags 'reg on hold' and could not get the money for it (as he was dreaming).

He is now selling it just as a shell with no tags, but surely if the car is in the system and the plates are 'live' couldn't the new owner just WOF it and get it road legal, making the plates and tags the old owner has void?

[RUNAMUCK]

Only if the car has a chassis number stamped into the body.

If it did, you could discover the rego number (Maybe have to ask the police nicely) then change rego into your name, and get new plates.

If the car has no stamped chassis number (As many don't) then the tag is the only identification to verify the vehicle is the one the plates are for.

It could get curly/ugly quite easy.

[kiwi808]

The car will have a body number stamped on the firewall. It is how you can identify what kind of car it is. The car in question is a Mazda 808 which has a different number to an RX-3.

My understanding (which is often wrong) is that if I had the body number, I could apply for new number plates, claiming the old ones are lost (reg is on hold) then wof and go?

 

He is also trying to sell Plates and Tags seperate (which really pisses me off) but these could be useless if new owner was quick?

 

THis is all a moot point, as I'm not interested in the car at all, the new owner of the body will probably use it as rust repairs and chop it up and someone will use the Plates and Tags to illegally get another car on the road...

[NaN]

NaN

[kiwi808]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mazda/auction-626939785.htm

 

I enquired about this car a while ago. It was up for sale "complete" for $9k with fake Rx-3 front ect (but still rolling body only). After talking to the guy it turned out that it was only complete panel wise, all the other bits (like most of the interior) was missing.

Stupidly over priced and didn't sell. It then showed up as it is now, but with plates and tags and he wanted $3.5k for it (but said he waould take $3k). Now it is for sale, minus plates and tags for $1k.

Have not checked to see if numbers all match etc and I was thinking about getting it to make a race car originally or keeping it as spare body parts. I am also obsessed with Mazdas and my wife thinks I am trying to save the world one Mazda at a time.

 

Just just curious as to what would happen if he tried to keep the tags, as I am sure you could probably still get the car road legal if the plates are on hold, but not on the car. Surely you would still need to sign ownership over or something, get a receipt that you bought own it.

 

I also hate the idea of people selling "plates and tags" seperate, as this only fuels the illegal and stolen car market which gives me angry face.

[Jase]

question regarding modified suspension pickup points and rust repair on chassis.

landrover has some thin tin in the rear of the the rails a couple bits at thee front and at the bottom of the front cab outriggers.

I've cut the shit out and have been plating with 3mm steel (standard 2.5mm) plug welded plates inside rail to support all repairs

will this require a repair cert from a panelbeater? the only obvious repair is the replaced rear x member (brand new).

next question putting 70 series diffs and suspension under it can I remove the factory pickup points and weld or squash tube/bolt on the cruiser ones ? having 6mm u plates folded up to slip over the chassis which I'm going to weld and gusset the factory cruiser mounts to?

factory hand brake is on the drive shaft can the cruiser diffs handbrake assembly be utilised as fiddle brakes with the levers removed for road use?

[CaMpylobacter]

this guy's got certed fiddles.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/land-rover/series/auction-604243279.htm

[Mattt]

hey guys, ive had a quick look but cant find what i'm after although i'm sure people have asked this before. My next door neighbours car got pink stickered because it's a piece of shit. I'm trying to help her get it legal cause shes a nice lady and told her to go for the check. it came back with a structural repair check sheet which only has provisions for a buisness to fill it out. I want to do the repairs for her being a qualified engineer i wouldnt have thought this would be a problem. Can anyone tell me if i'm allowd to do it? I found a complete download with the sheet and what looks like it would be a rear sheet (which the real one doesn't have) which basically says filling out the sheet is voluntary however that was dated as current in 97.

 

link to that sheet for anyones interest: www.ecos.co.nz/images/pdf/wick/47565.pdf‎

[coldturkey]

Hello fellow enthusiasts.

 

So it looks like my factory original strut has Cast welded to steel, would this mean I cant use it for a coilover mod?

 

Seems kinda ridiculous.

 

 

Also it's unclear in the photo if these are welded at the bottom or not, what do you guys reckon? The pic is off Yahoo Japan so its not simple to ask the owner for clarification.

Cheers

[Bling]

YOU can't weld to cast, the factory can and does on many cars.

 

So just follow the guide Al put up in tech articles, and this guide helps too: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37800-welded-strut-how-to/

 

It gets covered in this thread every couple of weeks, so just read back until you find the info you're after. Saves Cletus writing it all again

[coldturkey]

Thanks, yeah I have read the guide and understand fully etc.

Does that seem funny to anyone else that the car manufacturer factory can but the suspension manufacturer factory can't.

[cletus]

question regarding modified suspension pickup points and rust repair on chassis.

landrover has some thin tin in the rear of the the rails a couple bits at thee front and at the bottom of the front cab outriggers.

I've cut the shit out and have been plating with 3mm steel (standard 2.5mm) plug welded plates inside rail to support all repairs

will this require a repair cert from a panelbeater? the only obvious repair is the replaced rear x member (brand new).

next question putting 70 series diffs and suspension under it can I remove the factory pickup points and weld or squash tube/bolt on the cruiser ones ? having 6mm u plates folded up to slip over the chassis which I'm going to weld and gusset the factory cruiser mounts to?

factory hand brake is on the drive shaft can the cruiser diffs handbrake assembly be utilised as fiddle brakes with the levers removed for road use?

rego status? if its dereg you probably will need to get a repair cert done, if reg on hold its up to the wof inspector as to whether its good enough, wof man can ask for a report from a panelbeater if they have doubts about the repairs. repair does not have to be done by a panel shop

 

welding the cruiser mounts on should be fine if done properly

[cletus]

hey guys, ive had a quick look but cant find what i'm after although i'm sure people have asked this before. My next door neighbours car got pink stickered because it's a piece of shit. I'm trying to help her get it legal cause shes a nice lady and told her to go for the check. it came back with a structural repair check sheet which only has provisions for a buisness to fill it out. I want to do the repairs for her being a qualified engineer i wouldnt have thought this would be a problem. Can anyone tell me if i'm allowd to do it? I found a complete download with the sheet and what looks like it would be a rear sheet (which the real one doesn't have) which basically says filling out the sheet is voluntary however that was dated as current in 97.

 

link to that sheet for anyones interest: www.ecos.co.nz/images/pdf/wick/47565.pdf‎

see above

[cletus]

Thanks, yeah I have read the guide and understand fully etc.

Does that seem funny to anyone else that the car manufacturer factory can but the suspension manufacturer factory can't.

 

i get what you mean, and there are thousands of struts worldwide that are modified like that and have not failed

however, lvvta have made it a blanket rule the same for all situations

 

 recently there was some testing done on a commonly available aftermarket strut for hondas with a welded on cast arm. it failed the first test, (something to do with the welding affecting the casting in the area it was welded on) the manufacturer modified the welding process and another one was tested and still failed. at this point the importer gave up cause they dont sell a heap of them anyway

 

if a factory strut fails, its the vehicle manufacturers fault, as soon as a modified strut is fitted and certified, the certifier takes responsibility if there is a problem- not the strut modifier or manufacturer

[bigmatt4]

heres how it works in real life, and the rule is intended like this=

 

you fit a bigger version of the same engine, it needs cert

you modify your original engine to make over 20% more power than stock, it needs cert

you modify your original engine ie bore it out and it makes less  than 20% more power, doesnt need cert

you fit a smaller engine of the same type, doesnt need cert

heres one 4 ya. I am building an escort van with a 4age in it will get it certed and stuff but if i wish to refit the standard 1600 escort motor back in it will it need to be re cetified as the body and crosmember have zero mods to fit 4age so escort motor will bolt strait back in minus driveshaft mod

[Bling]

Is it going back to 100% factory?

 

A cert has to match the car, doesn't matter if you're going back to factory parts. If you modify it from the cert, then it's no longer legal. I'm pretty sure you can take it back to 100% factory, and have the cert plate removed by the appropriate person (not you). If there will still be other modifications to the car (parts no longer factory spec), then a re-cert is the only way I can think of doing it legit. That is how I understand it works anyway.

 

If the only modification you've done is engine / drive shaft loop, then I don't imagine it being too much work to put it back to factory and have it inspected and cert removed.

 

Makes sense to me, I hope it's right..

[cletus]

that sir, is correct.

[coldturkey]

i get what you mean, and there are thousands of struts worldwide that are modified like that and have not failed

however, lvvta have made it a blanket rule the same for all situations

recently there was some testing done on a commonly available aftermarket strut for hondas with a welded on cast arm. it failed the first test, (something to do with the welding affecting the casting in the area it was welded on) the manufacturer modified the welding process and another one was tested and still failed. at this point the importer gave up cause they dont sell a heap of them anyway

if a factory strut fails, its the vehicle manufacturers fault, as soon as a modified strut is fitted and certified, the certifier takes responsibility if there is a problem- not the strut modifier or manufacturer

Cool thanks for that I understand.

One more question though, if I were to find a non-adjustable aftermarket strut replacement (and therefore no cert required) it is legal entirely legal, despite having steel welded to cast? (from a WOF point of view etc). As long as it's a direct replacement, not modified etc.

Cheers

[cletus]

i asked that same question at a training session, and i think the answer was along the lines of "if its not being certed we dont have to worry about it."

as far as i know most vehicles that have the strut constructed that way have a replaceable insert so aftermarket complete struts are not that common. its not mentioned in the wof book so i doubt it would be a wof fail issue