Jase

l series petrol and diesel flywheels are different depths i've found, only since bolting an ld to an l28 patrol gearbox, the ultimate box would be from an mq safari lwb with divorced transfer, as they are a 4 spd bus box essentially and the Bedford won't put too much strain on it

the brass copper combo is more ductile than the alloy, so other than being better at heat transfer it can also expand and contract more readily than the alloy with each heat cycle. you will also notice some alloy rads have the tubes bowed in the core so that with expansion and contraction of the tube it is not ripped from the end tanks. a lot of the trademe ali jobs suffer from cracking of that nature

concur^ you'll find with lsd front an rear it'll walk everywhere, even better with an auto locker rear an lsd front so its not too piggish to steer if its a daily

when you look at the bike they came from can you work out how much airflow it was consuming and the airspeed it was generating at idle to drag the air in at idle past the fuel to get efficient mixing. eg 1200cc bike will consume 600cc of air per revolution of the crank, at 1000rpm its going to consume 10000cc of air per second or 21.1888cfm - which would be 255cfm @ 12000rpm so then your 2000cc car will consume 1000cc of air per revolution , at 1000rpm its consuming 1000000cc/s or 35.315cfm- or 282cfm @8000rpm now from what I can remember most flatslides run a venturi to spray the fuel up from the jet when the needle is lifted, maybe this needs to be resized to match the increased airflow demanded of the carbs and also the increased volume of fuel from the jets required to achieve the correct mix for the larger engine. Also of note is most bike carbs run with an airbox extremely well, the airbox's I've seen always have relatively small inlets, could the small inlet be aiding and increasing airspeed down each carb through its restriction. Also watching your vid could the airflow from your fan be disturbing/upsetting the carbs? as normally they'd draw a relatively undisturbed supply from the airbox only really effected by inlet pulse up and down the airbox and supply and demand variation due to throttle opening

its not over full? as that'll froth the oil up and drop pressure as the pump picks up air laden oil.

I did the same went drum to b2000 discs , then I had some b2000 stubs modified to flip the bottom balljoint. the stubs got the bottom taper milled out then a stepped bush with the new taper got pressed in. it sees the lower a arm sit flat and would remove catseyes with the x member. those stubs are shelved as the ute wouldn't get out the driveway on them. make an offer if you want them, I'm looking at ordering a water to air for the daily so any extra funds would be handy

seemed to have solved it, fuel cut solenoid or idle up solenoid was still getting power after ignition off, unplugged that and went for a ten minute drive along with a quarter turn out on the mixture screw and its gravy. cheers chap bloody butchered together ford

so my little truck likes to diesel itself , it idles smooth at 1000rpm when warm, timing was set with a light at 12deg before tdc with vac advance unplugged, vacuum sits at a steady 500mmHg at idle and drops off as it should. it runs like it should but runs on at shut down? it doesn't pink on acceleration and does smell a bit fumey could the rich mix be leaving a pool of gas in the intake? the carb does have what seems to be a fuel cut solenoid which I have checked but will double check the circuit powers down with the ignition off. it did have one blocked idle air supply jet which once fixed sorted a high idle issue it had. any thoughts?

hey tom you buy that sfi from jegs? I have two glides here one which is already a two piece case and built for a bit it got a big block pattern bell though so looking to match to ls did you buy the ls to glide one or the other?

for 1.5mm to 3mm a side heat with blue crescent till bright amber whilst clamped in a press , then pump it down nice and level with a block say 10mm off your clamping block. should be able to get a nice little side shift in the plate whilst keeping it parallel easily with correct setup. ie that is run a bit of 1.5-3mm plate on the underside of the material where it is clamped leaving a 3mm gap for the steel to be shifted

I have an old pajero tow point dynabolted to the floor in my shed for this reason, you can run a snatch block and cable under the bus and tow it in with another car. without knowing where it nipped you're pretty much poking in the dark. or just put 50psi in the tyres get some chaps to give you a push/insert buick v6

uterus is correct in the sense that the pump doesn't restrict boost at all, other than failing to supply adequate fuelling to get the combustion to a level where the turbo is at its most efficient. more fuel will give higher egts and egts over a certain point will eat pistons rods blocks, diesel can be somewhat counterintuitive to a petrol head where a rich mix is safe for petrol it is the opposite for diesel, run lean with a diesel and you will be down on power but the egts stay very low. get an auberin egt gauge in there and have a look at your temps before you tune. certain engines won't handle high egts (1hz etc) due to thin piston crowns

yeah does wildplumdx still hang about I'd like to borrow that timing gauge for my ve pumps, you want more boost add more fuel chap, pay to get an egt gauge first though

cut down redrilled axle flanges would be a good start, if an axles out the shafts are quite beefy and 30 spline, also the driveshaft flange only comes in a couple of styles, post a photo of the top of the head I have a few here to compare with

scribbulon aka sexychevette incarnate/ probably just old heads will get that