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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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They'd probably accept garden hose going by the trailers I see on the road. Perhaps just sleeve it in some electrical duct so it can't rub?

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P clip it inside the a-frame.

Much easier to fix when it gets whacked and broken off at the master cylinder 

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Cm trailers do a side mount brake line Master cylinder that will eliminate 90% of crushed line during loading and unloading, especially relevant when using a mini digger as the diper arm with clean up bucket attached sits on the drawbar.

 

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One at work got failed for no sleeve in the hole as it went inside the draw bar

also another ones line is run along the front of the axle to the other brake and it was failed for being all rusty (from stones flicking up etc) 

they replaced it with new line still along the front :doubt:

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3 hours ago, Bling said:

They'd probably accept garden hose going by the trailers I see on the road. Perhaps just sleeve it in some electrical duct so it can't rub?

I'm thinking about sleeving it in garden hose inside the draw bar. 

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On 16/02/2019 at 20:58, Mr Vapour said:

I'm thinking about sleeving it in garden hose inside the draw bar. 

Problem with running down the inside of the draw bar is it's another hole to let in water. Not an issue if the trailer is hot dip galvanized.

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These are my lower control arms for the front suspension on the Morris. They were pro-built but quite a long time ago.

These are upside down, the mount hangs below the arm when on the car.

Will the lower shock mounts need a plate joining each side, like I've professionally drawn on the back one? If so, I'll put them on before getting them ND tested.

 

 

P1020938.JPG

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I don't think it would make much of a difference myself, but no reason why you couldn't add it if you want

the lower coilover bolt and crush tube holds the 2 plates together, and the part that wants to 'tear off' is at the other end of where an extra weld would be for the added plate.

 

have you done a design approval for the front end? 

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10 minutes ago, cletus said:

I don't think it would make much of a difference myself, but no reason why you couldn't add it if you want

the lower coilover bolt and crush tube holds the 2 plates together, and the part that wants to 'tear off' is at the other end of where an extra weld would be for the added plate.

 

have you done a design approval for the front end? 

Not yet, waiting for my son to do the drawings (a multi-year process :) )

It was built by Graham Berry's and patterned on the Locost design with Cortina uprights so I don't expect any major issues (hopefully....)

I've thrashed the car around a dirt track on a dairy paddock and nothing broke, but I'll probably add the extra plates anyway as it's easiest to do it now.

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Is the design approval a knights of the round table discussion? 

Where by all the LVV guys all get together and decide if they are happy with the idea placed in front of them ? 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, scooters said:

Is the design approval a knights of the round table discussion? 

Where by all the LVV guys all get together and decide if they are happy with the idea placed in front of them ? 

 

 

Technical Advisory Committee, but yes.

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01_2016_LVV_Custom_Independent_Front_and_Rear_Suspension_Approval_Application_Guide.pdf

 

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43 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Wow ok real banging heads stuff. looks like a lot of that could be just supplying the data. Would not surprise me if there is a program that they punch it into and out spits go, no go based on measurement given. ?

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9 hours ago, scooters said:

Would not surprise me if there is a program that they punch it into and out spits go, no go based on measurement given. ?

nope, that sort of modelling would take way too long and require too much validation to be worthwhile. I'd assume they'd run some basic stress calculations at key areas (decrease allowable stress for fatigue/welds etc, apply huge safety factor) and then get a yes/no.

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I suspect it's more of a visual check - if the design uses typical material sizes and the alignment of the pivot points looks OK for bump steer then it would get approval. 

Anything oddball would get closer attention. Anyway, all that lies in my future :)

 

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So is that the way to get a custom front subframe approved  ?

or is there another form for that ? Stock suspension locations and mounts to body and engine just built from tubing not from pressed tin spot welded together 

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7 minutes ago, Transom said:

So is that the way to get a custom front subframe approved  ?

or is there another form for that ? Stock suspension locations and mounts to body and engine just built from tubing not from pressed tin spot welded together 

That would just be normal Cert approach I guess. The custom IRS/IFS is the only thing I know of that always requires TAC approval, unless you are doing something really weird.

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Quick numberplate question, just finished rebuilding a trailer which had no original numberplate but the newly assigned number plate is huge and doesnt fit anywhere. Ive cut 70mm or so off the bottom where I would assume a rego tag would go but its still to big, can you get the numberplates made up in a square shape the same as mopeds? Used the same form to register so I assume its possible but VTNZ lady had no clue.

 

20190302_191003.jpg

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On ‎25‎/‎02‎/‎2019 at 17:27, f100_dreamin said:

Hey @cletus

have you seen the leaf spring sliders that seems to be common to use on A body’s in the U S of A, would they be all good to use in NZ

47204226391_f3ff3e7b91_b.jpg

 

https://www.manciniracing.com/lespsl.html

 

have seen them on the internet, but not on a car here.

the side loading could be an issue- if its a steel washer rubbing on the side of the bracket, that might not be ideal long term on a street car

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