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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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"10. A lens is missing, or has a hole, crack or other damage that allows moisture or dirt to enter."

asking for a friend.

do i read it as crack is a fail or a crack that allows moisture or dirt to enter as a fail?

in any case, if the crack is repaired, is it a pass or does the lens require replacement as a whole?

 

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One of our cars has a cracked taillight lens cos wife backed into something. She took it to auto sparky cos it kept filling up with water and was corroding the bulb holder. Auto sparky drilled a small unobtrusive hole in the bottom of the lens to allow water to drain out. Many wofs later it still works fine.

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This feels like a dumb question and I'm almost embarrassed to ask. 

If a car is certified it has to be within a certain camber range. If I'm just on lowering springs and the camber is achieved through factory adjustment can I run say 3-4 degrees camber for a WOF? Is there anything in the VIRM about alignment?

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On 11/10/2023 at 20:45, cletus said:

cut the carpet out if it's got modified seats 

A round bit of pipe sharpened like a gasket punch, then made hot with a propane torch melts the carpet edge so it doesn't fray and makes a neat hole 

I put a nail through the carpet to mark the bolt hole in the floor. Then used a 12mm socket on an extension, heated the socket till it had a cherry red ring at the leading edge and the nail was a great target to lower the socket around, it burnt through the carpet and insulation leaving a perfectly round hole, plus it had the benefit of a nice cauterized the edge of the carpet so it wouldn't unravel (good old el-cheapo synthetic carpet material). Definitely far better than the old drill through the carpet jobby I used to do which just ended in multiple holes and with frayed carpet sticking out.  

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21 minutes ago, GARDRB said:

This feels like a dumb question and I'm almost embarrassed to ask. 

If a car is certified it has to be within a certain camber range. If I'm just on lowering springs and the camber is achieved through factory adjustment can I run say 3-4 degrees camber for a WOF? Is there anything in the VIRM about alignment?

Technically no but excessive wheel alignment can cause handling issues. This means that if the vehicle veers significantly to one side, or the vehicle requires unreasonable force to steer, or the steering is unreasonably stiff, rough or light, or the vehicle does not handle safely under normal conditions of road use, eg the suspension is excessively hard or soft, or there is excessive body roll, or the vehicle does not self-centre, then it fails.

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5 minutes ago, KKtrips said:

Technically no but excessive wheel alignment can cause handling issues. This means that if the vehicle veers significantly to one side, or the vehicle requires unreasonable force to steer, or the steering is unreasonably stiff, rough or light, or the vehicle does not handle safely under normal conditions of road use, eg the suspension is excessively hard or soft, or there is excessive body roll, or the vehicle does not self-centre, then it fails.

Yeah, my last car was certed about 6 months before the camber restrictions came in and had about 4-5 degrees in the back and about 3-4 in the front. Was certed by Neil Fraser and we did roll center and bump steer correction. It drove well enough for a low car with a terrible scrub radius and wide wheels. This will be much more subtle

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a cert question on calliper adapters, these have been previously certed they are adapters for evo brembos to holden commie uprights and clubsport discs.

providing they are the correct thickness is the weld holding the two pieces to get the offset correct an issue? as I thought they had to be a single peice? 

IMG_8612.jpeg

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Are keeper/helper springs OK for certification? Like these sort of things.. 

https://www.nzperformance.co.nz/bc-adjustable-suspension-keeper-helper-spring-pa-2

One of the things I'll have to deal with in the future is loose front springs (makita one ways) when the car jacked jacked off the ground. Iirc it's about 20mm gap. Currently the car has some very well secured straps, as is done extensively in the UK with imps wearing shorter springs. But I'm guessing this fix would not pass a cert? 

So if my 'strap ons' are not good enough then it's some keeper springs or start looking into making some coilovers with shorter insert etc etc but that's a whole new set of questions. 

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Coil over on the front. Divorced (never actually heard that term used before now) at the back. The back end is fine - the coils there remain captive.  Just these loose front springs to sort. I'd love it if I could swap the guts out and put in shorter inserts but I cant as they have non-servicable rolled over ends. If there was enough meat in the wall I'd cut the tops off the dampers, internally thread them and machine up some caps to retain some inserts.

image.jpeg.a0f796df2fce914dd27987641e966ced.jpeg

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Another option would be cobra springs made to suit. That was a path I looked at for the rear of mine. They would do the maths on a spring needed to fit the specs you provide. 20mm longer for example with slightly lighter spring rate to keep final ride height the same? With the keeper springs you may need to make a custom adaptor to your your springs. There were only two sizes of spring that I recall, both  within a few mm of each other to suit different coilover brands. I went keepers in front as needed 10mm more travel for cert, otherwise would have avoided as it means springs aren't tight in coilover, but does the job fine.

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12 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Are keeper/helper springs OK for certification? Like these sort of things.. 

https://www.nzperformance.co.nz/bc-adjustable-suspension-keeper-helper-spring-pa-2

One of the things I'll have to deal with in the future is loose front springs (makita one ways) when the car jacked jacked off the ground. Iirc it's about 20mm gap. Currently the car has some very well secured straps, as is done extensively in the UK with imps wearing shorter springs. But I'm guessing this fix would not pass a cert? 

So if my 'strap ons' are not good enough then it's some keeper springs or start looking into making some coilovers with shorter insert etc etc but that's a whole new set of questions. 

I presume this is still correct information

Captive Springs via restrictive straps | LVVTA Forum (proboards.com)

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Thinking out loud you could also get some progressive springs made, best of both worlds. Long enough to remain captive and secure between top hat and base. Without needing to be a soft spring to be the right length / spring rate. My rear springs are progressive. They are stupidly short, but they are progressive. I'm guessing budget is the reason to run straps or the likes vs new springs that fit the bill? I was pretty close to getting Chamberlains to make me a pair of springs but due to time constraints, I made what I had work. But it would have been easier than the extra effort needed to make my stuff work. Also keep in mind you need 40mm droop or 1/3 of suspension travel as droop. Could be worth having a measure.

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Yeah that's another idea, although even without knowing the cost of custom springs, i bet they are more expensive then making wire rope retainers (but much cleaner looking....)

Currently I have something like 30mm, maybe a bit more, of droop before the straps got tight.

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