Plox Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Hi all, wanting to gather knowledge on getting my car cert'd. Mainly needs a cert for brakes and adjustable suspension. It's a bc5 Subaru legacy RS & it has a Garrett, Link ecu etc. (so I believe it classes as significant power increase, sadly), upgraded to 6 speed Subaru gearbox, factory Subaru driveshaft to suit (uni directly after the yoke & join after the mid hanger bearing), standard rear end. Thoughts on the need for driveshaft loop(s)? Going on the LVVTA sheet it should have a rear drive shaft loop due to power increase? (if so it's going to be a huge pain to install due to a lack of space ), I'm a bit unclear about the front half. Any feedback appreciated 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Do I need a tray on my ute? I'm thinking about taking the tray off to strip it back and paint it, while I keep driving the ute. I'm guessing I'll need some sort of rigid cover and wheel arches/mudguards in the meantime? Was hoping that some 8mm ply and trailer arches jimmied up would be sufficient to keep it safe in the meantime. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Hi all, wanting to gather knowledge on getting my car cert'd. Mainly needs a cert for brakes and adjustable suspension. It's a bc5 Subaru legacy RS & it has a Garrett, Link ecu etc. (so I believe it classes as significant power increase, sadly), upgraded to 6 speed Subaru gearbox, factory Subaru driveshaft to suit (uni directly after the yoke & join after the mid hanger bearing), standard rear end. Thoughts on the need for driveshaft loop(s)? Going on the LVVTA sheet it should have a rear drive shaft loop due to power increase? (if so it's going to be a huge pain to install due to a lack of space ), I'm a bit unclear about the front half. Any feedback appreciated Hoops on the front and rear sections or find yourself a one piece shaft off some oddball BG/GC/cant remember what it was. Will need a cert for power increase but shouldnt need one for the gearbox conversion since you're using an OE crossmember I believe. Will also need the brakes on your plate. Also im sure you've lowered it so make sure your camber is up to scratch or buy some adjustable bits to fix that before you get it checked. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Do I need a tray on my ute? I'm thinking about taking the tray off to strip it back and paint it, while I keep driving the ute. I'm guessing I'll need some sort of rigid cover and wheel arches/mudguards in the meantime? Was hoping that some 8mm ply and trailer arches jimmied up would be sufficient to keep it safe in the meantime. Thoughts? Yea pretty sure you don't need a tray, only cover the wheels as you;re doing and rear lights. Have seen this done plenty of times so assume it's semi ok? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plox Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Problem with with these is the driveshaft needs to be from bc to have the hanger in the right spot. Or will that remove the hanger and then I'll only need to install a front loop? Yea bit lower, not hella flush or anything though. Has adjustable rear arms and front camber plates & bolts so with a decent alignment it should be OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Problem with with these is the driveshaft needs to be from bc to have the hanger in the right spot. Or will that remove the hanger and then I'll only need to install a front loop? Yea bit lower, not hella flush or anything though. Has adjustable rear arms and front camber plates & bolts so with a decent alignment it should be OK. No hanger at all on the single piece shaft. Had one on my BC5 back in 2007 but cant remember what it came off. More likely youre just going to need to fit 2 hoops. They arent too hard, you'll just need to fabricate your own to fit in the front bit of tunnel. Can probably use the mounting holes for the auto trans crossmember as an easy starting point for the front one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Clint, is the above still the case? If so, do they need to be NDT? new standard has been updated to include this situation 2.2 (27) http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Suspension_Systems.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Hi all, wanting to gather knowledge on getting my car cert'd. Mainly needs a cert for brakes and adjustable suspension. It's a bc5 Subaru legacy RS & it has a Garrett, Link ecu etc. (so I believe it classes as significant power increase, sadly), upgraded to 6 speed Subaru gearbox, factory Subaru driveshaft to suit (uni directly after the yoke & join after the mid hanger bearing), standard rear end. Thoughts on the need for driveshaft loop(s)? Going on the LVVTA sheet it should have a rear drive shaft loop due to power increase? (if so it's going to be a huge pain to install due to a lack of space ), I'm a bit unclear about the front half. Any feedback appreciated Does it make more than 50% more power than stock? if so, yes it will need loops, 2 if its a 2 piece shaft. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Do I need a tray on my ute? I'm thinking about taking the tray off to strip it back and paint it, while I keep driving the ute. I'm guessing I'll need some sort of rigid cover and wheel arches/mudguards in the meantime? Was hoping that some 8mm ply and trailer arches jimmied up would be sufficient to keep it safe in the meantime. Thoughts? should be sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Hi Clint Had another look at my driveshaft hoop plates and had to modify the drivers side as it interfered with the seat rail mounting bracket. I have trimed down my plate (originally 50x50). Is this going to fly? Passenger side is ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 If they equal 3000 Sq mm then will be OK, you have got 2 per side? Also if it bolts throught a hollow section it will need a crush tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 If I use 2 plates that size it will have a combined area of 3700mm2 (initial plate is 1850mm2) This will be ok? Am I allowed to cut a section out of this seat box channel to put in crush tubes? Currently there is bugger all access. Any ruling on size of tube to be used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Usual method is drill the top hole bigger, drop the crush tube in then weld it to the top . Crush tube should be 3mm wall 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvmyvl Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Looking at an imported vehicle, thats not been registered here. what comes first? the compliance or the certification for mods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plox Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Does it make more than 50% more power than stock? if so, yes it will need loops, 2 if its a 2 piece shaft. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf Thanks for that, more up to date than the one I found. It's currently on a reduced tune making 180 ish kw atw but it can make another 100wkw. According to Wiki it was 164kw out of the factory (at engine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Man, what a fail. Must have been going off an old spec sheet for the driveshaft hoop. Heres an example of a hoop that bolts thru the floor Here is what ive made The standard says the hoop needs to be as round as possible. Is my creation going to fly? I also have clicked as to why you asked if there were 2 bolts - 2 bolts per side...... I dont see any mention about bolt spacing. Can they be in close proximity to each other? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Myslef (and a few other peoplel I know) have made them using flat bar across the bottom with a half round loop on top, and had no troubles come cert time. But probaly down to the individual cert man. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_b Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 hey there, just picked up a new car and have a couple of questions,1) with adjustable suspension is the measurement on the cert plate from the center of the hub to the guard, or from the guard to the ground ? as my cert plate is showing 610mm +/- 5%, so either its from guard to ground or its a cert plate error.2) if its registered as a 4 seater and you have no rear seats or seat belts will this still pass a wof ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 hey there, just picked up a new car and have a couple of questions, 1) with adjustable suspension is the measurement on the cert plate from the center of the hub to the guard, or from the guard to the ground ? as my cert plate is showing 610mm +/- 5%, so either its from guard to ground or its a cert plate error. 2) if its registered as a 4 seater and you have no rear seats or seat belts will this still pass a wof ? 1. On my cert plate the measurements are from the hub center. 2. Yes, it should. There is a VIRM section on this IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_b Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 1. On my cert plate the measurements are from the hub center. 2. Yes, it should. There is a VIRM section on this IIRC. was hoping that wasnt the case anymore for the cert height, its not a baja race truck so 610mm is a bit impossible for hub center to guard haha. i wonder how this could be fixed without re-cert. also.. if i want to get rid of the personalized plate and put a normal plate on will it need re-cert or just a updated plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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