Plox

I'd say its on the small side for 350whp. Try find something thicker or taller for more cross sectional flow area (ideally). My 230x550x63 IC was a significant restriction at 280wkw/375whp (awd) with something like 4/5psi of pressure drop. It cooled the air effectively but the flow area was too restrictive. Now I have a similar size but 100mm thick and it has no pressure drop, also the tune needed more fuel and less wastegate duty for the same boost. Edit: Also look at ITL intercoolers, had them recommended by a few people and do the trick while not costing the earth (could get their 500x300x100 cut down to 500x180x100 or so).

We are wanting to fit a coil over conversion kit to my farthers Morris minor, but we should probably check how legal it is first. I assume the answer is take it to the certifier and ask, but it could be simple hell no and no need to waste his or our time. Has anyone used one of the Spax front coil over conversion kits (http://www.morrisminorspares.com/front-suspension-c47/front-suspension-all-models-c71/coil-over-damper-conversion-kit-front-spax-p830570) or similar and know if they are certifiable in NZ? Bottom of the coil over mounts to the lower arm like below: Top of the coil over mounts to a plate which is bolted to the existing "shock" like so: Thanks in advance for any advice

I couldn't find the right disc's for my mx83, north shore Toyota found them from another supplier. If you haven't tried them I'd suggest it, seem to be a bit more helpful and on to it than the average. Repco has a listing for mx73 but none in stock anywhere.

I'll be there for the Sunday at least

Has the tune happened, how did it go? I saw it at the supermarket yesterday and it reminded me to check progress here.

A single walbro should supply more than enough for 250kw in the future. That or Bosch, no need to change other components. FPR should hold the fuel pressure the same as with your factory pump. Pretty much +1 to what testament said

Sooo, much driving? Hows it been going?

I like it on those wheels but I agree the middle in a colour would be great. I love polished lip, gold mesh at the moment. Can't picture the centers bronze but white/bronze seem to suit. Side note, GTR links are on special till the end of Jan. Tad more boost and tune should see it net 350 ponies atw. Factory turbos are said to be safe up to 1 bar, anything more is getting dangerous.

If he's going in that direction he will need a BCM and matching key, or an eprom chip (available off trademe for ~$70 with the return of the current one) that disables the immobiliser function in the ECU. When my paddock commy wouldn't start due to the dead key/immoboiliser it wouldn't fire at all

You ruined it... nah sounds cool, B4's are great cars but the TT system sucks. Appears you removed brake booster & ABS and have a different (subaru?) MC/proportioning valve, Any issues with the steering?

So I took the car for a cert, one of the items it failed on was that it needs a heat shield between master cylinder and exhaust (turbo housing). Would a turbo beanie meet the requirement? (I asked him but he wasn't sure how good they were and said he would need to be able to hold has hand in between them after going for a decent drive) For those not familiar with Subaru's, picture below (sorry about the photo, I was trying to work out what master cylinder I had):

Thanks for that, more up to date than the one I found. It's currently on a reduced tune making 180 ish kw atw but it can make another 100wkw. According to Wiki it was 164kw out of the factory (at engine).

Problem with with these is the driveshaft needs to be from bc to have the hanger in the right spot. Or will that remove the hanger and then I'll only need to install a front loop? Yea bit lower, not hella flush or anything though. Has adjustable rear arms and front camber plates & bolts so with a decent alignment it should be OK.

Hi all, wanting to gather knowledge on getting my car cert'd. Mainly needs a cert for brakes and adjustable suspension. It's a bc5 Subaru legacy RS & it has a Garrett, Link ecu etc. (so I believe it classes as significant power increase, sadly), upgraded to 6 speed Subaru gearbox, factory Subaru driveshaft to suit (uni directly after the yoke & join after the mid hanger bearing), standard rear end. Thoughts on the need for driveshaft loop(s)? Going on the LVVTA sheet it should have a rear drive shaft loop due to power increase? (if so it's going to be a huge pain to install due to a lack of space ), I'm a bit unclear about the front half. Any feedback appreciated

Do you need doors for a re-vin? Have heard you don't need doors for a wof but unsure about how true it is.

Just a rev limiter that cuts spark but not fuel aren't they? Would imagine they are similarly harsh as anti lag or launch control - excess use causes turbo issues, burn't valves and chew through exhaust gaskets

Not a fan of sandwhich plates but you can get these if it suits placement on your car: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/core-engine/auction-670726455.htm You can get inline thermos with an oil filter relocation kit etc. Unsure about power steering thermo but could just use lines like a lot of factory cars have.

Need a starter that's from a k50 box I believe. Need a bit more info around the cert. Assuming your doing a 4age swap into something that use to have a smaller engine? Any performance shop would do a engine swap and get running but a lot of $$$$ I would think, and you would still need to organize cert etc. Edit: Just remembered that starter motors off 3au engines should fit (k50 box)

This ^ made me laugh. What's wrong with diff, bushes or dying from abuse?

Id get the exhaust manifold, turbo oil and water lines off the gsr as well. Try retrofit the mani to the 4age. Otherwise by the time you add a $800 mani, ecu and tuning, it's still a very expensive mod for not a huge amount of gain (unless you are looking further down the track with lower compression/forged engine)

Pretty hard to guess power output. This is where research pays off, look at similar build results etc. But at 7psi very rough estimate would be a 50% increase over factory power, so 40hp ish increase

Only one way to learn, go for it! Never heard of a inlet manifold leaking but Toyota's are new to me, is the wastegate factory or an external? ecu wouldn't cope with the injector size increase, unless its tune-able. If not piggyback or standalone + tuning which can cost $$$$ I would assume the map sensor would cope at that level of boost, what size map sensor is it (how many bars can it read)? A2A would be easiest and in my opinion better anyway. Paint doesn't effect the temps noticeably (if at all), been a few back yard type tests done that showed no increase. Use radiator paint, id assume it was designed for transferring heat but best of all it seems to stick well & resist chipping.

Great thanks for that. I'll make sure we do it that way next time, will do a full flush. and yes someone helping & topping up res. Sweet I'll talk to the old man and see if he has one or wants one.

All new bits where on the front, figured the rear wouldn't do to much? I bleed both front and one rear. Had done rears in the past and not touched them since and the back left one looked fine so I left the other. Just repco fluid. Sounds like more bleeding required! thanks for your help guys.

Drums are a new art to me so any advice would be appreciated! Vehicle is a Morris 1000 van Installed new brake shoes & cylinders, gave inside the hubs/drums a quick sand with some 1080, did a bleed, tried to adjust (clicked it up until it was locked/nearly locked then backed off a bit) How do you know how far to adjust the brake clickers? When test driving it would brake alright, but only after 2 or 3 pumps of the brakes and no real feel to the brakes unless you have pumped before. My thoughts are it could need more bleeding (or complete flush) & maybe some adjustment? or is that normal for cars like the morrie? Also the brake reservoir gasket is pretty shabby, would this be affecting it?